The Latin Quarter: a long history and the student headquarter
My LATIN QUARTER key words :
books, schools, students, Sorbonne, shops, cafés, gallo roman, Lutecia, old, Middle Ages, lively, quiet, Shakespeare and Company, Hemingway, bookstalls, old cinemas, Midnight in Paris, Left bank, Latin, University
NO OFFICIAL GEOGRAPHIC LIMITS :
It is quite difficult to attribute exact geographic borders to the Latin quarter. But many historians agree to reckon that the Latin Quarter occupies most of the 5th arrondissement of Paris and a small part of the 6th (map on the left side)
Location
On the right: a map of the 5th arrondissement of Paris
The Latin Quarter is located on the left bank of the river Seine, mostly in the 5th arrondissement.
The 5th arrondissement of Paris, divided into 4 administrative districts. As you can see, none of them is called “Quartier Latin” although the Latin Quarter occupies most of the 5th arrondissement of Paris.
A vibrant neighborhood and old streets
nb: This article is mainly about the northern part of the Latin Quarter, I will publish another article about the South-East part of it later.
You will like this part of the Latin Quarter…
- if you’re looking for a lively area: knowing that its most touristic part is definitely in the few streets located in an eastern direction from Place Saint Michel (rue de la Huchette, rue de la Harpe, rue de la Bûcherie…).
- But if you walk a bit further, off the beaten track, you’ll find nice old and peaceful streets (rue Lanneau, rue de la Montagne Sainte Geneviève, rue Laplace, rue Frédéric Sauton, rue des Grands Degrés…).
- You’ll enjoy this neighborhood, if you like cafés, a cool and vibrant atmosphere, old small bookshops…
Latin language in the Latin Quarter
This area gets its name from the common language which has been spoken there, until the Revolution (late 18th century). The Latin language, which was the language of educated people
The Paris University was created there in the Middle Ages (1215), the first of France. Students came from all over Europe to learn Theology.
(btw : I have studied a few years at La Sorbonne where I graduated with a Master)
Ar the beginning, the subject taught was Theology, then, Theology, Arts, Medecine and Law.
Now, some of the most renown French schools and Universities are located in the Latin Quarter. Among them, La Sorbonne University, le Collège de France, the Lycée Henri IV, le Lycée Louis Le Grand, l’Ecole Normale Supérieure… just to name a few
The oldest part of Paris, if not, one of the oldest
Long before being called Paris, the city was called Lutetia (more than 2000 years ago). This Gallo Roman city was built there in the area called now “Latin Quarter”.
Lutetia : 27BC – 4th century AC
Several remains of Lutetia can be seen in Paris. One of the most important is the remains of the Roman Baths.
They are currently incorporated in the Middle Ages Museum , 28 rue du Sommerard. Metro Saint Michel
Paris was built on the ruins of Lutetia.
Many streets of the Latin Quarter date back to the Middle Ages and some street names have not changed in 800 years.
Photo on the left side : the famous Lady and the Unicorn tapestry.
The Middle Age Museum is a late 15th century medieval mansion and gathers one of the world’s finest collections of Medieval Art.
Saint Etienne-du-Mont church
Saint Etienne-du-Mont church is a 16th century church, located behind the Panthéon and close to what was the center spot of Lutetia (more than 2000 years ago).
This church houses some remains (relics) of Sainte Geneviève, patron of Paris. It also houses the last rood screen in Paris, and the oldest organ of the city.
(nb : and this is the church were my grand parents got married !)
The steps of Midnight in Paris
Saint-Etienne-du-Mont church, 5 place Sainte Genevieve – Paris
The steps of the film “Midnight in Paris” (Woody Allen), are located on the left side of Saint Etienne-du-Mont church (photo of this church : above).
Shakespeare and Company
Shakespeare and Company is a new and second hand bookstore and antiquarian bookstore very popular with visitors to Paris.
It has long been run by George Whitman and frequented by many authors.
Btw : This bookshop was named Shakespeare and Company in 1964. The original Shakespeare and Company opened and run by Sylvia Beach and who welcomed many authors like Hemingway, James Joyce, Stein was located in another neighborhood (Saint Germain des Prés). Unfortunately, it doesn’t exist anymore.
I understand the success of this bookstore at least for its history and its location in such an old building (16th c) and for the view of Notre Dame. So it can be worth a visit when you come to Paris.
But in my opinion, and this is just my opinion, since the 2000s after G. Whitman’s death, it has become a bit more of a business, and a place mostly frequented by tourists who, most of the time have to wait on line before entering the place. A small place often crowded.
(I guess some of you will hate me writing that … So this is just my feeling…!)
Some other places to visit or wander around
LES BOUQUINISTES ( = the bookstalls), a Paris’ tradition dating back to the 16th century.
Not to be miss !
3 kilometers of bookstalls running along the river Seine, in the center of Paris, on both banks of the river.
Mostly second hand books, but also vintage magazines, posters, and a few souvenirs.
The PANTHEON: massive and amazing building, located next to Saint Etienne du-Mont church.
Conceived (mid 18th century) by Louis XV to honour Sainte Genevieve (Paris’ patron). With the French Revolution, the church was turned in to a Panthéon. It’s a location for the tombs of 81 French great citizens. (Voltaire, Rousseau, Pierre and Marie Curie, Victor Hugo, Emile Zola…)
The Panthéon (nave and crypt) can be visited : website
And from April to October you can climb to the top of the building and enjoy the view over Paris
SAINT MICHEL fountain
Difficult to speak about the Latin Quarter without mentioning Saint Michel square and its fountain ! It’s been a popular meeting point for students, but for students only !
A 19th century fountain remarkable for its polychromy.
It was designed by Davioud architect, responsible for many other buildings in Paris, and Parisian outdoor furniture (kiosks, benches…)
My recommendations:
In my opinion, one of the best way to experience and enjoy the Latin quarter is to stroll the streets, in the East and East-Southern area of Saint Michel square.
- Stroll the most busy and touristic streets (east of Saint Michel square, a stone’s throw from the river) : rue de la Harpe, rue de la Huchette, rue de la Bûcherie, and around (although maybe not the best place to stop for a meal or a drink…) ….But not these streets only…!
- Explore also the neighborhood a bit further to the South-East (between rue de la Bûcherie and the Panthéon), you ‘ll find charming old streets and you’ll be surprised to see how quiet it is : rue Galande, rue Saint Julien le Pauvre, rue Frédéric Sauton, rue des Grands Degrés, rue de la Montagne Sainte Geneviève…
- Don’t miss the bouquinistes. From Quai de Montebello, a nice view of Notre Dame de Paris
- Take a visit at Shakespeare and Company bookstore. I find the place has become a kind of touristy spot, but it’s worth visiting it at least once. And why not a drink at their coffee shop that I really like… )when there aren’t too many people !) and enjoy the view of Notre Dame de Paris
- Sit on the steps of Midnight in Paris, then visit the very special Saint Etienne du Mont church
- Enjoy a break at a café. Place de la Sorbonne (photo above, on the left side), the gathering place of many students and a place many Parisians enjoy (including myself !)
- From Place de la Sorbonne, you are at 5 to 10 minutes walk from the charming Luxembourg Garden !
Some addresses
- Les Patios, or l’Ecritoire: 2 cafés located Place de la Sorbonne
- Shakespeare and Company: 37 rue de la Bûcherie
- Odette tea room and its pastry puffs : corner rue Saint Severin/rue Galande (a few meters from Shakespeare), 77 rue Galande
- Middle Ages museum: 28 rue du Sommerard (pastry shop, quite expensive but renowned), rue Bonaparte, nearby Saint Sulpice church.
- Tram café-librairie (actually it’s a coffee shop) : 77 rue de la Montagne Saine Geneviève
- Eglise Sainte Etienne du Mont (behind the Panthéon): at the top of the rue de la Montagne Sainte Geneviève
