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Ernest Hemingway (1899-1961) is one of the greatest American 20th century novelists.   He is renowned for his spare but powerful waiting style. Famous for his novels like “The Sun also rises,A farewell to arms” and also for “A moveable feast”, the memoir of his Paris years, written later after he returned to United States. Hemingway won the Nobel prize in 1954.

Sean Hemingway, Ernest Hemingway’s grand-son, said that what’s remarkable about his writing is that he really formed the writing in his head very carefully before it comes out”

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Ernest Hemingway, a figure that seems to belong to Paris

Although Ernest Hemingway has lived in Paris for only a short time (from 1921 to 1928), he is a figure that will always be connected to Paris. ThiA moveable feast - The BookThis is where he started writing his first novel which was going to be published (“The Sun also rises”) and this is where he lived the 6 years he spent with Hadley Richardson, his first wife. It seems that his years with Hadley in Paris were among his happiest years of his life and though he was married four times, that Hadley stayed his only true love.

Hemingway Hadley and others

Hadley (in the center) – Hemingway (on the left side)

He wrote “A moveable feast”, the memoir of his Paris years,  long after his return to United States with the help of notes he had written while in Paris.

If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast. – Ernest Hemingway

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“A day with Hemingway” walk is a great way to discover Hemingway’s Paris  

To take this walk with me or to get more information : Don’t hesitate to contact me : here

Hem in Shakespear & co. snapshot by Sylvia Beech

Hemingway in Shakespeare and Company in Saint Germain des Prés – Photo by Sylvia Beach

The walk takes you to most of the places Hemingway frequented. I have listed more than 25 places that are spread mostly across 3 neighborhoods (the Latin Quarter, Saint Germain des Prés and Montparnasse). The Latin Quarter where his first apartment was located, Montparnasse (his 2d apartment) and Saint Germain des Prés (his last home). And in these 3 neighborhoods, numerous cafés, brasseries and places he frequented…Without counting the streets in which he loved to stroll.xrue-mouffetard-vintage-photo-736-2x1.jpg.pagespeed.ic.hI0eY3Xjmw

And what’s amazing,  is that much of Hemingway’s Paris still exists: the cafés that he frequented, the brasseries where he dined, the places where he wrote some of his best writing, the places where he lived… Many of these places are mentioned in “Paris is a moveable feast” (his Paris’ memoirs) and in “”the Sun also rises” too.

But not only ! …. You don’t have to be the greatest fan of Hemingway to enjoy this stroll.

It is a good excuse to explore Paris off the beaten path, while stopping at some of Hemingway’s favorite spots. 

And…  it takes you back in time : If you love the 1920s era, “A day with Hemingway” is a way to experience what Paris was like at that time. In the 1920s, many writers and artists from all over the world moved to Paris and the American writers were known as the Lost Generation.Le Dome - cover-2-1170x543

To get more information about “A day with Hemingway” walk, Don’t hesitate to contact mehere

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Hadley,  the woman Hemingway never stopped lovingHadley2One can’t speak or write about Hemingway’s Paris without mentioning Hadley. Hemingway and Hadley were the golden couple of Paris in the 1920s

Wedding Hadley et Hemingway

Hadley Richardson, the woman he left and the woman Hemingway never stopped loving

Hemingway and Hadley

Hemingway was married four times. One says that Hadley (his first wife from 1921 to 1927) was his only true love and that he cherished her throughout his life.  And no one can denied Hadley’s major influence on Hemingway’s work. And her presence is found in Hemingway’s writing

Hemingway with Hadley and son Jack ‘Bumby, Paris 1920s. Photo- JFK Library

with their son Jack, nicknamed “Bumby

They lived 6 years together, which is most of the years Hemingway spent in Paris

With Hadley

He met her in 1920s, in Chicago, at a friend’s apartment. He was 21, Hadley was 28. They got married in Horton Bay, Chicago. They moved to Paris in 1921, shortly after their wedding. But they divorced in 1927, soon after Hemingway had a love affair with Pauline Pffeifer, who soon became his second wife. Hemingway and Hadley : a true love story and a heartbreaking ending.

Hem Hadley et Bumby

In “A moveable feast” he wrote about the years he spent with Hadley : I am happy and without any remorse and I never worked better nor was I happier and I loved the girl truly”. He displayed his feeling for her again in the novel “Islands in the stream” and dedicated “The sun also rises” to her and their son. His friend, A.E. Hotchner said that Hemingway has been seeking his great love the rest of his life, and that his separation from Hadley had haunted him to the grave.

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 Places where this walk will take you : 

“A day with Hemingway” walk takes you mostly off the beaten paththrough the 3 main neighborhoods he frequented : the Latin Quarter, Saint Germain des Prés and Montparnasse.  Closerie des lilas en noir et Blanc

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Among the numerous spots we’ll stop at :  places where he lived, his favorite cafés and brasseries (often gathering spots of numerous artists and writers at that time),  the hotel where he spent his first days in Paris , the hotel where Hadley found herself alone with their son after Hemingway left her for Pauline (who was going to be his second wife)  , the cafe where he wrote most of “The Sun also rises” and many more

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To take this walk with me or to get more information : Dont’ hesitate to contact me : here

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How and why did I designed “A day with Hemingway” itinerary ?

I have always been passionate about knowing and visiting places where writers and artists lived and worked in Paris. I feel it’s a way to get closer to their writing, to get closer to the humans they were, a way to feel the city (rather that “visiting” it) and a way to get to know more about the history of Paris. And I had enjoyed reading the Hemingway books that are so associated to Paris (Especially “A moveable feast” but “The Sun also rises” too)Hemingway_à_Paris - Cardinal Lemoine

And it turns out that the 3 main neighborhoods that Hemingway frequented are my favorite too and those where I spent the most of my time in Paris. As you may know already (!), I am a “left bank” person. And it’s where I was born and raised and this is where I live now.
I have always known and frequented most of all the places mentioned by Hemingway in “A moveable feast”.

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However, before designing the tour, I sought out and checked all the addresses at which Hemingway had lived, every houses, hotels bars and restaurants, every street and block, I re-read his books* (the ones strongly linked to Paris, and I went again to all the “Hemingway’s addresses and hangouts. 

It was fun research and a real pleasure to work on designing this tour and it will be my pleasure to share it with you ! To take this walk with me or to get more information : Don’t hesitate to contact me : here

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A few notes about “A day with Hemingway” walk with AJIP

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My grand-parents in 1928 when they moved to the Latin Quarter

The Hemingway’s Latin Quarter : This is where Hemingway and Hadley settled in their first apartment in 1921, a very modest apartment in a working class neighborhood.      

With the exception of a few years, my grand-mother could have met Hemingway on the street or in a shop… !! For indeed, the street Hemingway used to go shopping was the one where my grand-mother loved to go to. And Hemingway and Hadley’s first apartment was located nearby the street where my grand-parents settled in the 30s

But Hemingway left Paris in 1928 (!), a short time after (one or two years) he divorced Hadley. And my grand-parents settled in this neighborhood around 1929… (!)

During our stroll through this part, we’ll see : a lively market street, the building where his first apartment was located, his favorite café located at a charming square. We’ll walk the same streets he used to walk to go either to the Luxembourg garden, to Gertrude Stein his friend and great supporter, or to the banks of the Seine. And we’ll pass by many other Hemingway’s spots

 

The as ever confident Hemingway, Paris 1922. Photo- Hemingway Collection

Hemingway in the courtyard of his 2d Paris home

Hemingway’s Montparnasse : a neighborhood where many artists lived, gathered and worked in the 1920s. It was the neighborhood of Hemingway‘s second apartment in Paris. Where he and Hadley moved  when they came back to Paris in 1927 (after their son was born in Toronto).779-rotonde-la

Of course, there was no chance for me to meet Hemingway (!!!!) , but the area where he lived (1924-1927) is my most favorite Paris area. The place where my secondary school was located and the neighborhood that I’ve so often preferently chosen, when a teenager, to meet my friends in cafés, to go to movie theaters and so on. A neighborhood I  favour, still now. And surely the area I’d like to choose if I had to change apartment.

When a teenager, I didn’t know about the rich history of Montparnasse… A few years later, I learnt about it, and it made me love Montparnasse even more

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Where Hemingway used to stroll

During our stroll  through Montparnasse, we’ll see : His second home with Hadley, the home of Ezra Pound, the 4 cafés he loved (among them the Closerie des Lilas where he wrote almost the whole of “The Sun also rises”, the place where he met Scott Fitzgerald for the first time, hthe location of Gertrude Stein apartment (where they used to meet and discuss), l’hotel where he started his love affair with Pauline Pffeifer, the location of the bakery where he used to go, the hotel where Hadley felt so lonely after they separated.

Hemingway’s Saint Germain des Prés : This is where Hemingway and Hadley stayed the first days they arrived in Paris. This is also where numerous of his favorite cafés and restaurants are located too. And this is where the original Shakespeare and Company (owned by Sylvia Beach) was located too (So this is not the actual Shakespeare and Company, rue de la Bûcherie, that opened in 1951,long after Hemingway left Paris).

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With Sylvia Beach (on the right side) at Shakespeare and Company

Sylvia Beach was the owner of this lending library/bookshop,  which played a major role in Hemingway’s life when in Paris, alike in many other writers’s life. It was a gathering place for artists and particularly the American expatriate community (J Joyce, Fitzgerald, Gertrude Stein and many more … ) Hemingway used to borrow books there.

One of my favorite places to meet friends, to wander by myself, to spend time in cafés, reading working dreaming.

During our stroll , we’ll see : the hotel where he stayed with Hadley during his first Paris days, the location of the original Shakespeare and Company, 2 restaurants he used to go regularly, 3 cafés he especially loved, his second home with Pauline, the Luxembourg Garden where he loved to wander, the location of the museum he used to go to and other spots

Some RECOMMENDATIONS AND SUGGESTIONS : BELOW on this page : Books, article and the hotel where Hemingway stayed when he arrived in Paris

MORE PHOTOS OF HEMINGWAY’s PARIS at the BOTTOM OF THIS PAGE

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 AJIP private walking tours

To take this walk with me or to get more information : Don’t hesitate to contact me : here

“A day with Hemingway” private walking tour, will take you from the Latin Quarter to Montparnasse, through Saint Germain des prés. We’ll walk the streets Hemingway used to walk and will stop at the places where he lived, at his favorite cafés and all the places that were important during his Paris years.02022019-IMG_9509

I’ll give you a small booklet with the list of the places we’ve seen and explored and in addition the list of the main other places he used to go to on the right bank (some of them he visited long after his Paris’ years) such as the Ritz.

“A day with Hemingway” walk, includes two breaks with a drink (included in the fees) in two of Hemingway’s favorite cafés

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  • If you prefer a shorter walk, we can focus on 2 of these 3 neighborhoods : any combination which suits you.  
  • The whole walk can be divided into two parts too (on two different days)

If you’re coming to Paris soon and feel like discovering the Paris of Hemingway, if you’re passionate about Paris in the 1920s, about discovering the city off the beaten path, wether you’re a fan of Hemingway or not, Don’t hesitate to contact me 

  • List of AJIP private toursHere  – Each of the tours can be customized according to your wishes and interests : 
  • About the booking and pricing: Here 

MORE PHOTOS OF HEMINGWAY’s PARIS at the BOTTOM OF THIS PAGE

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My recommendations and suggestions :

You don’t have to have read Hemingway’s books or his biographies to enjoy “A day with Hemingway”

But if you haven’t, our walk may make you want to know more about Hemingway’s life, about Hemingway’s work and about his love story with Hadley ! Here some suggestions

  • A moveable feast by Hemingway (his Paris’ memoir) – Written after his Paris years. Published in 1964 by Mary Hemingway, his 4th wife, 3 years after Hemingway’s death. A moveable feast - The Book
  • The Sun also rises by Hemingway (1926) – The novel of the Lost Generation  – The setting at the beginning of the book takes place in Paris. – Hemingway’s first novel, written while he was in Paris and which established him as a writer of genius.Fiesta-The-Sun-Also-Rises-by-Ernest-Hemingway_[4665]_568
  • The Paris’ wifeby Paula Mc Lain – The story of Hadley and Hemigway’s relationship from its beginning to its heartbreaking endingThe_Paris_Wife_book_cover
  • Midnight in Paris (2011) – the movie, by Woody Allen. “A moveable feast” has provided inspiration for Woody Allen’s movie. Midnight in Paris is set in the Paris of the 1920s as portrayed in Hemingway’s memoir The movie features the figures of Hemingway, Gertrude Stein, F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald and uses the phrase “A moveable Feast’ in 2 sentences. Hemingway in Midnight in Paris
  • Paris without end : the true story of Hemingway’s wifeby Gioia Diliberto
  • The Paris‘ husband by Scott Donaldson (2018)
  • Hemingway in Love, his own story a book by AE Hotchner (one of his close friends)
  • And I invite you to read this article : Ernest Hemingway in Love 
  • HOTEL d’ANGLETERRE : You can stay in the hotel where Hemingway and Hadley stayed during their first days in Paris. The room (room 14) is unchanged. It has to be reserved far in advance – 44 rue Jacob – Paris 6 – Website of the hotel d’Angleterre https://www.hotel-dangleterre.com

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    Room 14 – Hotel d’Angleterre – 44 rue Jacob – Paris 6

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MORE PHOTOS

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Where Hemingway like to stroll and shop

 

Sylvia Beach & Adrienne Monnier

Sylvia Beach and Adrienne Monnier at Shakespeare and Company (the original bookshop !)

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Ernest Hemingway at his desk, working

EH5180 Paris Years:1922-1930 Ernest Hemingway wearing hat and holding John (Bumby) Hemingway. Series 03. Paris Years, 1922-1930. Box 3, Folder 21. Please Credit: "Ernest Hemingway Photograph Collection. John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, Boston."

Ernest Hemingway  holding John (Bumby) Hemingway.
Please Credit: “Ernest Hemingway Photograph Collection. John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, Boston.”

Hadley et Bumby

Hadley with Bumby in their Montparnasse apartment

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Shakespeare and Company, the original bookshop in Saint Germain des Prés

Ernest Hemingway with his son Bumpy (Jack), Paris 1925 -by Man Ray

Ernest Hemingway with his son Bumpy (Jack), Paris 1925

 

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Gertrude Stein, who welcomed, support and helped Hemingway

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This list includes my personal suggestions. It’s not (of course !) an exhaustive  nor an objective list. I may update it later in case I find out other ideas to suggest you.

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1 – Anne Maisonneuve’s T-shirts : You can get a  T-shirt with a great printing related to Paris. Elegant, Parisian and fun. For instance : macarons, Eiffel tower made with macarons…. And many more. Not a souvenir look but a T-shirt you’ll probably enjoy to wear as a good memory of your Paris stay ! BTW : Don’t rely too much on their website : the products look much greater in real !! In the shop, you’ll find costume jewels too – Where ? : Anne Maisonneuve – 113 boulevard Raspail – Paris 6 – Metro stop : Notre Dame des Champs (Montparnasse neighborhood) – annemaisonneuve.comOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Lacroix22 – Mariage Frères tea: Mariage Frères is an old renowned French company (since 1854),  which sells a large range and high quality tea – They sell nice teapots and cups too.   Where ? :  Saint germain des Prés :  13 rue des Grands Augustins – Paris 6 // La Madeleine : 17, place de la Madeleine – Paris 8 // Tour eiffel 56 rue Clerc – Paris 7 // Le Bon Marché 38, rue de Sèvres, Paris 7 (La Grande Epicerie, 1st Floor) // Galeries Lafayette , 21b boulevard Haussmann, Paris 9 (ground floor) // Printemps, 64 boulevard Haussmann Paris 9 (3d floor) – www.mariagefreres.com 

Another French brand of Tea : Kusmi tea, a nice french brand of tea too (In La Grande Epicerie of the Bon Marché – Metro stop : Sevres Babylone and several Kusmi tea shops in Paris including one on the Champs Elysées

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Mariage frères – French Tea

Lacroix23 – French candies : Calissons, Marrons glacés, Pralines, Nougats, berlingots, all very popular French candies. This is just some of the most traditional French candies. There are many others. 

“Les Anis de Flavigny” : the oldest fresh candies, not larger than a pea. The original ones are made with anise; Other flavors : rose, lemon, mint, violet… And the boxes are gorgeous old-style metal boxes. 

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Anis de Flavigny

Where ? confectionery, delicatessen La grande Epicerie of the Bon Marché, A La Mère de Famille shops

Marrons glacés (= Candied chesnuts): Seasonal candies that can be found generally in Chocolate shops from end november to end of January. A confection originating in southern France and northern italy, consisting of a chestnut candied in sugar syrup and glazed. People who like them actually LOVE them. Where ? : high quality chocolate shops such as JP Hevin, Jacques Genin, La Maison du Chocolat, Patrick Roger, Arnaud Lahrer. The making process of those candies is so complex that if you get them in ordinary shops you may be very disappointed.Marrons glacés

Calissons : a traditional French diamond-shaped candy, made of a smooth pale yellow paste of candied fruit and ground almonds topped with a thin layer of royal icing. Renown brands for Calissons : Léonard Parli (founded in 1874) or Roy René. The packaging is what they call themselves a “diamond-shaped box”. Where ? confectionery, delicatessen La grande Epicerie of the Bon Marché, A la Mère de Famille shops

Calissons

Calissons

Nougat :  the Montelimar nougat, has a traditional whitish color and is made of honey, almonds and a light mousse of egg whites  mixed in copper cauldrons. Made since the 18th century, in the Ardèches (region of France). My recommendation : choose it in bar shape (rather than in small candy size) then cut it when you want some and buy it in a chocolatier or a good quality candy shop (rather than in a supermarket), this will make a real difference. Check too that “Montelimar” is written on the package. You can ask for nougat soft (=tender) or hard. Generally, nowadays, you’ll find more easily soft nougat (that I recommend) rather than hard.Where ? confectionery, delicatessen La grande Epicerie of the Bon Marché, A la Mère de Famille Montelimar

Pralines : combination of almonds and caramelized sugar. Created in the 17th century It’s a specialty of Montargis, city of the Loire Valley, nearby Orleans. You can find brown or pink pralines. Mazet (French brand, founded in 1903) is maybe the most famous brand of Pralines, located in Montargis. Pralines roses

Berlingots : Hard and pyramidal shape candies. Nice to eat and to look at. And I must say that I like the sound of the word “Berlingot” too (!). Very musical ! Though I remember that you can’t eat music !Berlingots

Where find these candies ? In La Grande Epicerie of the Bon Marché, and in most of confectionary and chocolate shops.  A la mère de Famille is a popular confectionary shop. The larger “A Mere de Famille” (and the original one)  is located 35, rue du Faubourg Montmartre – Paris 9 

Lacroix24 – Chocolate : Many great chocolate shops in Paris.Chocolate

My suggestions : Jacques Genin chocolate shop, 27 rue Varenne, Paris 7 (in Saint Germain des Prés – Metro Stop : Rue du Bac or Sèvres Babylone) : a large shop and a great service www.jacquesgenin.fr  . Or Jean Paul Hevin shop : 3, rue Vavin – Paris 6 (Metro stop : Vavin, Montparnasse neighborhood) www.jeanpaulhevin .

Other renown chocolate shops :   Arnaud Lahrer, Pierre Marcolini…and many more !

Lacroix25 – Armor Lux : The « Marinière » = the classic Breton stripe shirt  : It’s an iconic French armor_luxoutfit, that actually is originated from Brittany and a cloth that takes its inspiration from the maritime tradition. It’s a great French basic that many French have in their wardrobe; a classic ! Jean Paul Gaultier has been using it as an emblematic piece of his fashion collections.  Armor Lux is renown for its “Marinières”. It’s a company created 80 years ago in Quimper a western city of Brittany (itself a western region of France). You’ll find marinières from women, children and men. Where ? Seven Armor Lux shops in Paris. Among them : Saint Germain : Paris- Sèvres, 33, rue de Sèvres Paris 6 –// Montparnasse : Paris-Vavin, 16, rue Vavin, Paris 6 // Montmartre – 1bis rue de Ravignan – Paris 18 – www.armorlux.com/en/armor-lux-classic-long-sleeve-off-white-1629215051842_675

Or Petit bateau (= “little boat”)– another renown French company,  a 124 years old company – nice great quality Tshirts and other products – They often sell Marinières too. Where ? 30 Petit Bateau shops in Paris – One in Saint Germain des Prés – 33 rue du Four – Paris 6 www.petit-bateau.co.uk

Lacroix26 – Traditional French Biscuits : Lu, Paille d’or, Crêpes dentelles, sablés bretons (La Grande Epicerie, Monoprix)

Crêpes dentelles

Crêpes dentelle

Crêpes dentelles : one of the iconic biscuit originated from Brittany dating back to 1893 : pancake. www.gavottes.fr/fr
batter rolled into a lace-thin cylinder. As light as crispy and succulent Brand recommended : “Gavottes”  You can get a cardboard box (lighter than the metal ones)

Galettes pont aven

Galettes Bretonnes

Sablés Bretons ( called “galettes” bretonnes too) : Breton round shortbread cookies, sandy texture, slightly salted. Brands recommended : Traou mad, Saint Michel, Ker Kadelac, La Trinitaine. Warning : not to be confused with the “‘Sablés de Retz” (different texture and taste)

Palets bretons

Palets Bretons

Palets Bretons (= Breton “disk”) : thicker than the sablés (about 3 cm thick), quite soft and slightly salted. Brands recommended : Traou mad, Saint Michel, Ker Kadelac, La Trinitaine. Warning : not to be confused with the “‘Sablés de Retz” (different texture and taste)

Palmito

Palmiers Palmito

Palmiers (= palm tree”) : flaky and crunchy. Nature (= the original and classic one) or chocolate (black or milk chocolate). Brand recommended : Palmito

Tuiles (=tiles) : egg white, caster sugar, flour, butter and vanilla extract. Great with a fruit salad for instance.

Cigarrettes russes

Cigarettes Russes

Cigarettes russes : Cigarette-shaped biscuits, sandy and empty, size of a cigar. A great classic that you can eat on its own or with ice-cream. Brand recommended : Delacre 

Barquettes

Barquettes Lu

Barquettes: Little boat- shape biscuits. The children especially like them. The original is apricot flavour, but some are chocolate or strawberry… Brand recommended : Lu

paille-d-or

Pailles d’or de Lu

Paille d’Or (= gold straw) Strawberry (Lu Brand): rasberry wagers, very fine and crispy with no artiicial color or flavor. Brand recommended : Lu

Where ? You can get most of these biscuits in the Monoprix or in La grande Epicerie of the Bon Marché (in the Franprix too)

Warning : There are everal chains of stores selling biscuits that I wouldn’t recommend. Their storefronts look really attractive, but in my opinion their products are as much disappointing as their storefront and setting are attractive.

Lacroix27 – Heyraud umbrellas. Not an ordinary souvenir – Wonderful umbrellas that look more real ombrella than souvenir that won’t last – Parisian patterns : Le Pont des Arts – Tour Eiffel pattern. Not made for tourists but for Paris lovers (either Parisians or visitors) . Herault company sell mainly high quality shoes, an a few other products  Where ? Heyraud – Paris Montparnasse 142 rue de Rennes – Paris 6 // Heyraud – Paris St Germain 23 rue du Four – Paris 6 // Heyraud – Paris Rivoli 90 rue de Rivoli – Paris 1 – // Heyraud Paris La Madeleine, 5 boulevard de la Madeleine, Paris 9 // Heyraud paris Italiens, 32 boulevard des Italiens, Paris 9 Heyraud umbrellas

Lacroix28 – Hermès scarves : An iconic brand and an iconic great French classic. A scarf as much as a work of art. Awsome material and design… and… very pricey (around 360 euros) … The house of Hermès launched the creation of its first ever silk scarf in 1937. Most popular size : 90cm X 90 cm. Where ?  Main Hermès store (flagship store) : 24 rue du faubourg Saint Honoré (between La Madeleine and La Concorde) The store itself is worth the visit //  In Saint Germain des Prés 17 rue de Sèvres Paris 6 // in Le Bon Marché too.

The Christian Lacroix scarves are gorgeous too. Expensive too, but far less expensive than the Hermès scarves. Where ?  Le Bon Marché ( www.24sevres.com/fr-ba/accessoires/echarpes-et-foulards/foulards ) or at the Galeries Lafayette or Le Printemps

You’ll find other wonderful scarves in the department stores, like in Le Bon Marché

Lacroix29 – Get your portrait drawn at the Place du Tertre. Your portrait or your silhouette !

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Place du Tertre – Montmartre (Paris 18)

The Place du Tertre is the most “touristic” spot of Montmartre village. Probably the most touristic spot in Paris. However having your portrait drawn, may be a great idea, a great memory of your stay. Try to avoid to crowded hours. Better choose the morning or an early evening. Take your time to choose the artist and if the artist is too insistent and pushy, don’t hesitate to say no and walk away. The average price : 60 euros for an individual portrait. Don’t hesitate to bargain a little. I can help you if I’m with you.

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Get your silhouette cut by a Montmartre artist : Silhouette cut-outs : Great too. One of my friends still fancy having her sihouette cut out in Montmartre several decades ago. A great memory for a cheap price.  The artist use only a pair os scissors and will cut a coloured sheet of paper in the shape of your profile. Great to bring back as a souvenir. But some of the artists are really pushy. Don’t hesitate to walk away if the person is too insistent.

Where ?  Place du Tertre – Paris 18 – Metro stop : Anvers or Abbesses

Lacroix210 – Get a book at Shakespeare and Company … with a stamp ! Get it stamped after purchase : the famous kilometer zero stamps inside the front cover.  You could buy a book of Poems by Jacques Prévert (“Paroles” for instance). Prévert, a so (!) Parisian poet or Apollinaire (very Parisian too !) who wrote « Sous le Pont Mirabeau » or a book by Hemingway, for instance « A moveable feast » (“Paris est une fête”) or a book by our beloved Colette, or “The little Prince” by Antoine de Saint Exupéry. And enjoy this beautiful old 16th century building and all the books at the same time !… Shakespeare and Company

Where ? : Shakespeare and Company, 37 rue de la Bucherie, Paris 5 – Metro stop : Saint Michel. Located nearby the Seine and Notre Dame. Oh ! … after getting your book, take the opportunity to have a break in their (tiny and great) tearoom which is nextdoor (great tea and a cheesecake I highly recommend !)

Lacroix211 – Soaps and perfumes at Oriza L. Legrand 

Oriza house was created in 1720 during the reign of Louis XV, Supplier of the Royal family and Queen Marie Antoinette ; The boutique is tiny and gorgeous. The old style packagings awsome. The old-style setting of this shop is gorgeous too. In this tiny shop, you’ll find soaps, perfumes/cologne

Where ? Oriza , 18 rue Saint Augustin, Paris 2ème Monday to Saturday 11am to 2pm – 3pm to 7 pm   Orizaparfums.com

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Les Parfums de Rosine

Lacroix212 – Les Parfums de Rosine. An old style and tiny shop focused on rose perfume. In the awesome setting of the Palais Royal garden.

Where ? Palais Royal garden – 105 Galerie de Valois – Paris 1http://www.les-parfums-de-rosine.com/index.php  Metro : Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre rosine.com

 

 

Lacroix213 – Bérets (Galeries Lafayette) –

Where : You can find a beret Made in France in the Galeries Lafayette, 6th floor, 40 boulevard Haussmann, Paris 9 – Metro Stop : Chaussée d’Antin – Other shops : Le Béret Français The numerous berets of “Le Beret Français”

beret-laine-enfant-orange

Lacroix214 – Aprons, tea towels, egg cups, trays… theme Paris – La Cocotte brand (Le Bon Marché) –  

Where ? : Some of the products are on sale at Le Bon Marché, 24 rue de Sèvres – Paris 6 – Metro Stop Sèvres Babylone-   https://www.lacocotteparis.com/fr/16-mugs-tasses La Cocotte Paris – 5 rue Paul Bert – Paris 11 www.lacocotteparis.comTorchon la Cocotte

Other nice brands of tea towels, apron, and others things for your home in Le Bon Marché or Galeries Lafayette gourmet maison 35, boulevard Haussmann, Paris 9 – Metro Stop : Chaussée d’Antin or Opéra

Note : the Galeries Lafayette gourmet maison (35 boulevard Haussmann) is for food and all what’s related to the home. It’s located in a different building from the main Galeries Lafayette department store (40 boulevard Haussmann)

Lacroix215 – A gift from Le Louvre A wide range of products derived from the collections and exhibitions of the museum : jewelry, prints, stationery, postcards, posters, books, scarves…  and many more or reproductions of works. For instance the miniatures of the Venus de Milo or the Winged Victory

Le Louvre Venus de Milo

La Venus de Milo

Where ? Librairie Boutique du musée du Louvre – Under the Pyramide – Paris 1 – Metro Stop : Palais Royal Musée du Louvre 

Lacroix216 – Beauty products 

2 very popular shops for beauty products at discount prices : Citypharma and Pharmacie de la Place MongeYou’ll find in both places many brands including Caudalie and Nuxe, most of them at a discount price . But these places are often crowded ! No high fashion designer brands like Dior, YSL, Chanel…

Where ? : Citypharma, 26 rue du Four, Paris 6 (Saint Germain des Prés) – Metro Stop Saint Germain des Prés, Mabillon or Odeon //  Pharmacie de la Place Monge, 74 rue Monge – Paris 5 – (in the Latin Quarter). Metro stop Place Monge (line 7)

2 French iconic products : 

Caudalie beauty products (City Pharmacie or a Caudalie shop) One of their most popular product is the “Eau de beauté” . Where ? : CityPharma, Pharmacie de la Place Monge, or one of the Caudalie shops (Caudalie shop 80, rue des Saint Pères, Paris 7 (Saint Germain des Prés) In most Pharmacies too. 

or “L’Huile prodigieuse” by Nuxe : Another very popular and iconic French beauty Product is the “Huile Prodigieuse” by Nuxe – Where ? : CityPharmaPharmacie de la Place Monge,  In most Pharmacies too. 

Lacroix217 – Theatre Comédie Française  In the building of the Comedie française, nice little shop and objects related to the theater. – boutique de la Comédie française21032018-IMG_2778

Where ? Place Colette – Paris 1 – Metro Stop : Palais Royal Musée du Louvre. Nearby the Palais Royal garden

An Other nice boutique : The  boutique of the Assemblée Nationale too (= our first assembly room) – boutique de l’Assemblée NationaleIMG_7073Where ? Boutique de l’Assemblée Nationale, 7 rue Aristide Briand, Paris 7 – Metro Stop : Assemblée Nationale

Lacroix2Fromage18 – Cheese :  Androuet is one of the oldest Cheese shop in Paris (since 1909) – 9 shops in Paris – In my opininon, a company on which you can rely . Great service and products. Several shops in Paris. Nice welcoming and knowledgeable staff and they provide vacuum packing to transport cheese home.

Where ? Androuet 38, rue Saint Louis en l’Ïle – Paris 4 (on Saint Louis Island), Androuet, 37 rue Verneuil, Paris 7 (In Saint Germain des Prés neighborhood) – More addresses of Androuet shops in Paris :  http://androuet.com/fromage-paris.html 

From the Assemblée Nationale – a nice shop

Lacroix219 – Ladurée gifts :

Nice gifts in Ladurée  : Key chains, shopping bags… and many more. And their famous macarons too.Capture d’écran 2018-03-26 à 15.22.31

Where ?  8 shops in Paris. Among them : Ladurée Champs Elysées, 75 avenue des Champs Elysées , Paris 8 – Ladurée Saint Germain des Prés, 21 rue Bonaparte, Paris 6, Ladurée web site

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Ladurée tea and beauty

And a new Ladurée Tea and beauty shop !!! : A quite new shop (opened about 1 year ago) entirely dedicated to teas, candles and home fragrances. : Ladurée Thé et Beauté, 232 rue de Rivoli, Paris 1 – A boutique located a hundred meters from Angelina, 

Where ? Ladurée Tea and beauty shop, 232, rue de Rivoli, Paris 1 – Metro Stop : Concorde or Tuileries, close to Angelina

 

Lacroix220Dernière-version-Format-original-9060146-2 – A life style photo session with Ann Jeanne  : details
Take home unique memories of your Paris stay !  A pleasant and fun momentI focus on capturing emotions, and on telling your story in Paris.  
More details : Photo session, photos and/or musical slideshow

Lacroix2

AJIP Private walking tours and photo sessions

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Ann Jeanne in Paris

Share my Paris, the Paris I love. I welcome you, I accompany you and we walk at your own pace.

Each tour includes a break in a Parisian cafe . It’s a cross-cultural experience,a way to see Paris in a Parisian perspective and to know more about Paris’ life and culture. 

Ann Jeanne in Paris’ private tours are designed for one or two persons. A friendly, authentic and personal way to experience Paris. I was born and raised in Paris. Paris is the city where I have always lived.

More details about Ann Jeanne Paris tours  – contact

And  : Some details about the booking and pricing

 

30 questions on your tray placemat

The legendary Shakespeare and Company bookshop 
has opened a cafe last mid-october (2015)

Rue Saint Julien le Pauvre

It’s located at the corner of rue de la Bucherie and rue St Julien le Pauvre, next-door to Shakespeare and Company bookshop, with a view over Notre Dame.     Link to Shakespeare and Company bookstore article

History : George Whitman wanted a literary cafe next to his bookstore, many decades ago.

“I’ve got to get back the upstairs, and I’m going to open a literary café. Everything will be cooked under my supervision. There’s only one way to make a good lemon pie, you know.” — George Whitman, 1969.

A cafe as imagined by George Whitman in the 1960s and illustrated by James King

A cafe as imagined by George Whitman in the 1960s and illustrated by James King

 

Sylvia Whitman, George Whitman’s daughter, wanted to honor her father’s wishes and she made the George Whitman’s drawings a reality. The adjacent (vacant) property which used to be a stationery shop has been empty for over twenty years and so was officially available.

In October 2015, the café opened, next door to the antiquarian section of the bookshop.

The retro 70s floor tiles and the old stone walls have been preserved. Inside, some countertop seats, a few tables and chairs and more seating outside on benches.

 

                                                    Inside the cafe

Not any coffee, nor any tea... 
but high standards. Delicious

The Shakespeare and Company cafe serve soups of the day,pies, hand-rolled bagels, finger sandwiches, baked goods, vegan and gluten-free dishes , cookies (peanut butter cookies, chocolate  cookies, dark chocolate matcha cookies), brownies, lemon tarts, scones, pressed juices, smoothies of the day, coffee, tea…

They offer literary themed products too, such as : a special “Shakespeare Shake” ( = the smoothie of the day), the “Flapjack Kerouac”, the “Bun also rises”, the “Lunchpack of Notre Dame” (picnic baskets filled with wine to take away for some Seine-side dining) !!!!

30 questions on your tray placemat

30 questions on your tray placemat

A version of the legendary Proust questionnaire on each placemat lining every tray. (30 questions on your placemat)

The cafe is working with some great suppliers  :

The food is supplied by Bob’s kitchen : organic, and largely vegetarian food. Bob’s kitchen is run by Marc Grossman, an American born and raised in Manhattan. It’s also a restaurant located in the 3d arrondissement of Paris. 

The coffee is supplied by the Parisan roaster Café Lomi. Cafe Lomi is also a cafe located in the 18th arrondissement of Paris

The tea is supplied by London Postcard Tea, a London-based company featuring popular and rare teas.

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My advice :

Really gorgeous. everytime I go to Shakespeare and Company cafe, I enjoy the atmosphere and a top quality products : coffee, tea…Gorgeous cookies… etc

If you find yourself browsing at Shakespeare and Company next door,

If you visit the Latin Quarter,

If you’ve got some free time and nothing special to do,

………………………………………………………………………………………..    , visit the Shakespeare and Company café !!

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Addresses

Shakespeare and Company : 37 rue de la Bûcherie – Paris 5 – Metro stop Saint Michel                                                                           Monday to Friday 10 to 18h30   Saturday and Sunday from 10 to 19.30

London Postcard :  http://www.postcardteas.com/site/

Café Lomi : 3 ter Rue Marcadet, 75018 Paris, France

 Monday to Sunday : 10 am to 7 pm

Bob’s kitchen : Several places  74 rue des Gravilliers – Paris 3 – Metro Stop : arts et Métiers The restaurant serves breakfast, vegetarian and vegetalian meals and snacks, Monday to Friday : 8am to 3 pm Saturday and sunday : 8am to 4 pm TEL. 09.52.55.11.66

Also : Bob’s juice bar – 15 rue Lucien Sampaix – Paris 10   Monday to Friday 7.30 am to 3 pm Saturday 8.30am to 4pm TEL. 09.50.06.36.18

And Bob’s Bake Shop – Halle Pajol – 12 esplanade Nathalie Sarraute – Paris 18 – Everyday 8am to 4pm – TEL. 09.84.46.25.26

 

Sorbonne Place

The Latin Quarter is located on the Left Bank, between the Seine and the Luxembourg Garden.  It’s an area known for its lively, narrow and winding streets, its students bookshops, publishing houses, its experimental cinemas, its cafés, and jazz clubs…  Paris'map

In this area, famous institutes of learning among them, the 2 most prestigious lycées (high schools) Henri IV and Louis Le Grand, the Ecole Normale Supérieure, the Sorbonne, the Collège de France, Ecole Normale Sup…… 

This neighborhood is a part of Medieval Paris (Middle Âges : from the XI century to the end of XV century). This area was dominated by the Sorbonne since the Middle Âges. The Paris University was created in 1215, the first in France; 4 subjects were taught : Theology, Arts, Medecine and Law. During the 16th century, there were 40 000 students and 65 colleges. Latin was the common language. 

It gets its name from the common language spoken by theology students who came from all over Europe beginning of the 13th century to study at local university such as the Sorbonne. Latin was spoken in the area until the French Revolution (end of 18th century)

 

Take a walk in the Latin Quarter : the best way to enjoy it !

But one of the best way to enjoy the Latin quarter is to stroll the little streets : rue de la Harpe, rue de la Huchette, rue Galande, rue Saint Julien le Pauvre, rue de la Bucherie, rue Frédéric Sauton… When you walk in the eastern part of the area, you’ll be surprised to see how quiet it is  !

Here are a few Latin Quarter locations and buildings :

Sorbonne Place

Place de la Sorbonne and La Chapelle de la SorbonneThe Chapel was built in the 17th. The place is lined with cafés and shops. It’s one of the favorite haunt for students of the nearby Universities and schools. 

Midnight in Paris  : a famous location of the movie is in the Latin Quarter

Owen Wilson sitting on the steps

Owen Wilson sitting on the steps

Eglise Saint Etienne-du-Mont :

Located on the left side of the Panthéon (just behind).  This church houses of shrine of Sainte Geneviève, patron of Paris and the remains of the great literary figures Racine and Pascal. Its rood screen is gorgeous and really worth a visit.The steps in front of its entrance are where Owen Wilson sat to go back in time in the movie (inMidnight in Paris – Woody Allen). 
(Saint-Etienne-du-Mont church (Latin Quarter) 5 place Sainte Genevieve – Paris 5)

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    Eglise Saint Etienne du Mont

The Panthéon : Conceived (mid 18th century) by Louis XV to honour Sainte Genevieve  (Paris’ patron). With the French Revolution, the church was turned in to a Panthéon. It’s a location for the tombs of France’s great men and women (Voltaire, Rousseau, Pierre and Marie Curie, Victor Hugo, Emile Zola…)

Panthéon

Panthéon

The College de France : one of Paris’s great institutes of research and learning, established by François 1er in 1630. You can easily enter its courtyard.  (College de France’s main entrance :  rue des Ecoles – Paris 5)

College de France courtyard

College de France courtyard

The Middle Âges museum  :
a late 15th century medieval mansion and one of the world’s finest collections of Medieval Art.  (7 rue de Cluny – Paris 5 – RER Cluny Sorbonne or Metro stop Luxembourg or Saint Michel)

Middle Âges Museum

Middle Âges Museum

 

Gallo-Roman Bath

The Gallo-Roman baths : built in AD 200. The baths lasted for about 100 years before being sacked by the Barbarians. Romans settled around the Montagne Saint Genevieve and built Lutecia. They built an acqueduc of 15 kilometers and a network of paved roads, a forum, Baths, theaters…    In the 3 century, Lutecia was a small town of 6000 inhabitants. The remain of the Gallo Roman baths can be visited. (7 rue de Cluny – Paris 5 – Same address than the Middle Âges museum)

Saint Severin church

Saint Severin church

Saint Severin church : a typical Gothic style church. Begun in the 13th century. It took 3 century to build

 

 

 Saint Julien le Pauvre church

Saint Julien le Pauvre church

Saint Julien le Pauvre church and the Paris’ oldest tree : Saint Julien le Pauvre is one of the oldest church in Paris (12 century and rebuilt join the 17th century). An a setting for a lot of music concerts. In the park beside the church : the oldest Paris ‘ tree planted in 1601)

St-Michael Fountain

St-Michael Fountain

The Place Saint Michel : the popular meeting point for students, but not only students, and its fountain (Michaël killing the dragon)              

Some more photos

To experience Paris as a local :  take a walk in the Latin Quarter with Ann Jeanne in Paris

My advice :

  • In my opinion, the best way to enjoy the Latin Quarter is to take your time and stroll the area, go in a café (or several !) to rest and people watch. I suggest the cafés Place de la Sorbonne.
  • Walk to the Place du Panthéon and pay a visit to the Saint Etienne du Mont church just behind the Panthéon and then, sit on the steps where Owen Wilson sat in Midnight in Paris !
  • Spend more time in the eastern part of the area (between rue de la Bucherie and the Panthéon).
  • Take a break at Shakespeare and Company’s cafe : a nice place and lovely pastries and snacks. The coffee is delicious too.  Shakespeare and Company café – rue de la Bucherie – Paris 5 – Metro Saint Michel

Link to the article :  Shakespeare and company 

Nearby Notre Dame

YOUR Private walk, with Ann Jeanne in Paris, native Parisian

  • You’d like to feel like a local and having a tour in a Paris neighborhood, but you don’t feel having a tour with a group ?
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CONTACT me for a private walking tour and EXPERIENCE PARIS as a local

  • You only, or you and the person you choose.
  • Duration of the tour : 3-3.5 hours. It includes a coffee in an authentic cafe
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