Ann Jeanne in Paris

a Friend in Paris

13Apr

“A day with Hemingway” walk

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: Non classé People Tours
5 Comments
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Ernest Hemingway (1899-1961) is one of the greatest American 20th century novelists.   He is renowned for his spare but powerful waiting style. Famous for his novels like “The Sun also rises, “A farewell to arms” and also for “A moveable feast”, the memoir of his Paris years, written later after he returned to United States. Hemingway won the Nobel prize in 1954.

Sean Hemingway, Ernest Hemingway’s grand-son, said that what’s remarkable about his writing is that he really formed the writing in his head very carefully before it comes out”

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Ernest Hemingway, a figure that seems to belong to Paris

Although Ernest Hemingway has lived in Paris for only a short time (from 1921 to 1928), he is a figure that will always be connected to Paris. ThiA moveable feast - The BookThis is where he started writing his first novel which was going to be published (“The Sun also rises”) and this is where he lived the 6 years he spent with Hadley Richardson, his first wife. It seems that his years with Hadley in Paris were among his happiest years of his life and though he was married four times, that Hadley stayed his only true love.

Hemingway Hadley and others

Hadley (in the center) – Hemingway (on the left side)

He wrote “A moveable feast”, the memoir of his Paris years,  long after his return to United States with the help of notes he had written while in Paris.

“If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.“ – Ernest Hemingway

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“A day with Hemingway” walk is a great way to discover Hemingway’s Paris  

To take this walk with me or to get more information : Don’t hesitate to contact me : here

Hem in Shakespear & co. snapshot by Sylvia Beech

Hemingway in Shakespeare and Company in Saint Germain des Prés – Photo by Sylvia Beach

The walk takes you to most of the places Hemingway frequented. I have listed more than 25 places that are spread mostly across 3 neighborhoods (the Latin Quarter, Saint Germain des Prés and Montparnasse). The Latin Quarter where his first apartment was located, Montparnasse (his 2d apartment) and Saint Germain des Prés (his last home). And in these 3 neighborhoods, numerous cafés, brasseries and places he frequented…Without counting the streets in which he loved to stroll.xrue-mouffetard-vintage-photo-736-2x1.jpg.pagespeed.ic.hI0eY3Xjmw

And what’s amazing,  is that much of Hemingway’s Paris still exists: the cafés that he frequented, the brasseries where he dined, the places where he wrote some of his best writing, the places where he lived… Many of these places are mentioned in “Paris is a moveable feast” (his Paris’ memoirs) and in “”the Sun also rises” too.

But not only ! …. You don’t have to be the greatest fan of Hemingway to enjoy this stroll.

It is a good excuse to explore Paris off the beaten path, while stopping at some of Hemingway’s favorite spots. 

And…  it takes you back in time : If you love the 1920s era, “A day with Hemingway” is a way to experience what Paris was like at that time. In the 1920s, many writers and artists from all over the world moved to Paris and the American writers were known as the Lost Generation.Le Dome - cover-2-1170x543

To get more information about “A day with Hemingway” walk, Don’t hesitate to contact me : here

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Hadley,  the woman Hemingway never stopped lovingHadley2One can’t speak or write about Hemingway’s Paris without mentioning Hadley. Hemingway and Hadley were the golden couple of Paris in the 1920s

Wedding Hadley et Hemingway

Hadley Richardson, the woman he left and the woman Hemingway never stopped loving

Hemingway and Hadley

Hemingway was married four times. One says that Hadley (his first wife from 1921 to 1927) was his only true love and that he cherished her throughout his life.  And no one can denied Hadley’s major influence on Hemingway’s work. And her presence is found in Hemingway’s writing

Hemingway with Hadley and son Jack ‘Bumby, Paris 1920s. Photo- JFK Library

with their son Jack, nicknamed “Bumby

They lived 6 years together, which is most of the years Hemingway spent in Paris

With Hadley

He met her in 1920s, in Chicago, at a friend’s apartment. He was 21, Hadley was 28. They got married in Horton Bay, Chicago. They moved to Paris in 1921, shortly after their wedding. But they divorced in 1927, soon after Hemingway had a love affair with Pauline Pffeifer, who soon became his second wife. Hemingway and Hadley : a true love story and a heartbreaking ending.

Hem Hadley et Bumby

In “A moveable feast” he wrote about the years he spent with Hadley : I am happy and without any remorse and I never worked better nor was I happier and I loved the girl truly”. He displayed his feeling for her again in the novel “Islands in the stream” and dedicated “The sun also rises” to her and their son. His friend, A.E. Hotchner said that Hemingway has been seeking his great love the rest of his life, and that his separation from Hadley had haunted him to the grave.

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 Places where this walk will take you : 

“A day with Hemingway” walk takes you mostly off the beaten path, through the 3 main neighborhoods he frequented : the Latin Quarter, Saint Germain des Prés and Montparnasse.  Closerie des lilas en noir et Blanc

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Among the numerous spots we’ll stop at :  places where he lived, his favorite cafés and brasseries (often gathering spots of numerous artists and writers at that time),  the hotel where he spent his first days in Paris , the hotel where Hadley found herself alone with their son after Hemingway left her for Pauline (who was going to be his second wife)  , the cafe where he wrote most of “The Sun also rises” and many more

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To take this walk with me or to get more information : Dont’ hesitate to contact me : here

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How and why did I designed “A day with Hemingway” itinerary ?

I have always been passionate about knowing and visiting places where writers and artists lived and worked in Paris. I feel it’s a way to get closer to their writing, to get closer to the humans they were, a way to feel the city (rather that “visiting” it) and a way to get to know more about the history of Paris. And I had enjoyed reading the Hemingway books that are so associated to Paris (Especially “A moveable feast” but “The Sun also rises” too)Hemingway_à_Paris - Cardinal Lemoine

And it turns out that the 3 main neighborhoods that Hemingway frequented are my favorite too and those where I spent the most of my time in Paris. As you may know already (!), I am a “left bank” person. And it’s where I was born and raised and this is where I live now.
I have always known and frequented most of all the places mentioned by Hemingway in “A moveable feast”.

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However, before designing the tour, I sought out and checked all the addresses at which Hemingway had lived, every houses, hotels bars and restaurants, every street and block, I re-read his books* (the ones strongly linked to Paris, and I went again to all the “Hemingway’s addresses and hangouts. 

It was fun research and a real pleasure to work on designing this tour and it will be my pleasure to share it with you ! To take this walk with me or to get more information : Don’t hesitate to contact me : here

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A few notes about “A day with Hemingway” walk with AJIP

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My grand-parents in 1928 when they moved to the Latin Quarter

The Hemingway’s Latin Quarter : This is where Hemingway and Hadley settled in their first apartment in 1921, a very modest apartment in a working class neighborhood.      

With the exception of a few years, my grand-mother could have met Hemingway on the street or in a shop… !! For indeed, the street Hemingway used to go shopping was the one where my grand-mother loved to go to. And Hemingway and Hadley’s first apartment was located nearby the street where my grand-parents settled in the 30s

But Hemingway left Paris in 1928 (!), a short time after (one or two years) he divorced Hadley. And my grand-parents settled in this neighborhood around 1929… (!)

During our stroll through this part, we’ll see : a lively market street, the building where his first apartment was located, his favorite café located at a charming square. We’ll walk the same streets he used to walk to go either to the Luxembourg garden, to Gertrude Stein his friend and great supporter, or to the banks of the Seine. And we’ll pass by many other Hemingway’s spots

 

The as ever confident Hemingway, Paris 1922. Photo- Hemingway Collection

Hemingway in the courtyard of his 2d Paris home

Hemingway’s Montparnasse : a neighborhood where many artists lived, gathered and worked in the 1920s. It was the neighborhood of Hemingway‘s second apartment in Paris. Where he and Hadley moved  when they came back to Paris in 1927 (after their son was born in Toronto).779-rotonde-la

Of course, there was no chance for me to meet Hemingway (!!!!) , but the area where he lived (1924-1927) is my most favorite Paris area. The place where my secondary school was located and the neighborhood that I’ve so often preferently chosen, when a teenager, to meet my friends in cafés, to go to movie theaters and so on. A neighborhood I  favour, still now. And surely the area I’d like to choose if I had to change apartment.

When a teenager, I didn’t know about the rich history of Montparnasse… A few years later, I learnt about it, and it made me love Montparnasse even more

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Where Hemingway used to stroll

During our stroll  through Montparnasse, we’ll see : His second home with Hadley, the home of Ezra Pound, the 4 cafés he loved (among them the Closerie des Lilas where he wrote almost the whole of “The Sun also rises”, the place where he met Scott Fitzgerald for the first time, hthe location of Gertrude Stein apartment (where they used to meet and discuss), l’hotel where he started his love affair with Pauline Pffeifer, the location of the bakery where he used to go, the hotel where Hadley felt so lonely after they separated.

Hemingway’s Saint Germain des Prés : This is where Hemingway and Hadley stayed the first days they arrived in Paris. This is also where numerous of his favorite cafés and restaurants are located too. And this is where the original Shakespeare and Company (owned by Sylvia Beach) was located too (So this is not the actual Shakespeare and Company, rue de la Bûcherie, that opened in 1951,long after Hemingway left Paris).

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With Sylvia Beach (on the right side) at Shakespeare and Company

Sylvia Beach was the owner of this lending library/bookshop,  which played a major role in Hemingway’s life when in Paris, alike in many other writers’s life. It was a gathering place for artists and particularly the American expatriate community (J Joyce, Fitzgerald, Gertrude Stein and many more … ) Hemingway used to borrow books there.

One of my favorite places to meet friends, to wander by myself, to spend time in cafés, reading working dreaming.

During our stroll , we’ll see : the hotel where he stayed with Hadley during his first Paris days, the location of the original Shakespeare and Company, 2 restaurants he used to go regularly, 3 cafés he especially loved, his second home with Pauline, the Luxembourg Garden where he loved to wander, the location of the museum he used to go to and other spots

Some RECOMMENDATIONS AND SUGGESTIONS : BELOW on this page : Books, article and the hotel where Hemingway stayed when he arrived in Paris

MORE PHOTOS OF HEMINGWAY’s PARIS at the BOTTOM OF THIS PAGE

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 AJIP private walking tours

To take this walk with me or to get more information : Don’t hesitate to contact me : here

“A day with Hemingway” private walking tour, will take you from the Latin Quarter to Montparnasse, through Saint Germain des prés. We’ll walk the streets Hemingway used to walk and will stop at the places where he lived, at his favorite cafés and all the places that were important during his Paris years.02022019-IMG_9509

I’ll give you a small booklet with the list of the places we’ve seen and explored and in addition the list of the main other places he used to go to on the right bank (some of them he visited long after his Paris’ years) such as the Ritz.

“A day with Hemingway” walk, includes two breaks with a drink (included in the fees) in two of Hemingway’s favorite cafés

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  • If you prefer a shorter walk, we can focus on 2 of these 3 neighborhoods : any combination which suits you.  
  • The whole walk can be divided into two parts too (on two different days)

If you’re coming to Paris soon and feel like discovering the Paris of Hemingway, if you’re passionate about Paris in the 1920s, about discovering the city off the beaten path, wether you’re a fan of Hemingway or not, Don’t hesitate to contact me 

  • List of AJIP private tours – Here  – Each of the tours can be customized according to your wishes and interests : 
  • About the booking and pricing: Here 

MORE PHOTOS OF HEMINGWAY’s PARIS at the BOTTOM OF THIS PAGE

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My recommendations and suggestions :

You don’t have to have read Hemingway’s books or his biographies to enjoy “A day with Hemingway”

But if you haven’t, our walk may make you want to know more about Hemingway’s life, about Hemingway’s work and about his love story with Hadley ! Here some suggestions

  • “A moveable feast” by Hemingway (his Paris’ memoir) – Written after his Paris years. Published in 1964 by Mary Hemingway, his 4th wife, 3 years after Hemingway’s death. A moveable feast - The Book
  • “The Sun also rises” by Hemingway (1926) – The novel of the Lost Generation  – The setting at the beginning of the book takes place in Paris. – Hemingway’s first novel, written while he was in Paris and which established him as a writer of genius.Fiesta-The-Sun-Also-Rises-by-Ernest-Hemingway_[4665]_568
  • “The Paris’ wife“ – by Paula Mc Lain – The story of Hadley and Hemigway’s relationship from its beginning to its heartbreaking endingThe_Paris_Wife_book_cover
  • “Midnight in Paris” (2011) – the movie, by Woody Allen. “A moveable feast” has provided inspiration for Woody Allen’s movie. Midnight in Paris is set in the Paris of the 1920s as portrayed in Hemingway’s memoir The movie features the figures of Hemingway, Gertrude Stein, F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald and uses the phrase “A moveable Feast’ in 2 sentences. Hemingway in Midnight in Paris
  • “Paris without end : the true story of Hemingway’s wife” by Gioia Diliberto
  • “The Paris‘ husband” by Scott Donaldson (2018)
  • “Hemingway in Love, his own story” a book by AE Hotchner (one of his close friends)
  • And I invite you to read this article : Ernest Hemingway in Love 
  • HOTEL d’ANGLETERRE : You can stay in the hotel where Hemingway and Hadley stayed during their first days in Paris. The room (room 14) is unchanged. It has to be reserved far in advance – 44 rue Jacob – Paris 6 – Website of the hotel d’Angleterre https://www.hotel-dangleterre.com

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    Room 14 – Hotel d’Angleterre – 44 rue Jacob – Paris 6

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MORE PHOTOS

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Where Hemingway like to stroll and shop

 

Sylvia Beach & Adrienne Monnier

Sylvia Beach and Adrienne Monnier at Shakespeare and Company (the original bookshop !)

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Ernest Hemingway at his desk, working

EH5180 Paris Years:1922-1930 Ernest Hemingway wearing hat and holding John (Bumby) Hemingway. Series 03. Paris Years, 1922-1930. Box 3, Folder 21. Please Credit: "Ernest Hemingway Photograph Collection. John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, Boston."

Ernest Hemingway  holding John (Bumby) Hemingway.
Please Credit: “Ernest Hemingway Photograph Collection. John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, Boston.”

Hadley et Bumby

Hadley with Bumby in their Montparnasse apartment

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Shakespeare and Company, the original bookshop in Saint Germain des Prés

Ernest Hemingway with his son Bumpy (Jack), Paris 1925 -by Man Ray

Ernest Hemingway with his son Bumpy (Jack), Paris 1925

 

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Gertrude Stein, who welcomed, support and helped Hemingway

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4Jan

Paris’ bookstalls : browsing for books along the Seine

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: Non classé Places Useful Informations
12 Comments
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A stroll through the bouquinistes’ stalls is a genuine experience and a real pleasure. And the Paris’ bookstalls are one of the most iconic symbols of Paris15102018-IMG_7305

In brief : 

The “bouquinistes’ (=  Paris’ bookstalls) are traditional secondhand booksellers located along the quays of the rive Seine. It’s the largest open air bookshop in Europe. One of the most iconic symbols of Paris. Paris wouldn’t be the same without its bookstalls !

In “A moveable feast” Hemingway,mentions the bouquinistes; Hemingway used to visit the bookstalls and buy second-hand books there, especially on the left bank (Hemingway has spent all his Parisian years on the left bank (first in the Latin Quarter, then, in Montparnasse, then in Saint Germain des Prés, and finally in the South part of Montparnasse. 

Hemingway wrote : Shakespeare and company A moveable feast

“In the bookstalls along the quais, you could sometimes find American books that had just been published for sale very cheaply…if the people (in the Tour d’Argent’s
rooms) who lived there left any books behind there was a bookstall not far along the quai where the valet de chambre sold them and you could buy them from the proprietress for a very few francs…. After that bookstall near the Tour d’Argent, there were no others that sold American and English books entitle Quai des Grands Augustins” (in A Moveable feast – Chapter 4 – People of the Seine)

Among the other most famous customers, François Mitterrand, who liked to “browse” the quays, then walking back home (rue de Bièvre – Paris 5)  followed by his two bodyguards !

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Bouquinistes in 1920 – 0n the left bank – At the time Hemingway was in Paris

sur le quai de la Tournelle années 1950 - Paris 5e

Quai de la Tournelle années in 1950 – Paris 5

Some figures : 

  • around 1000 boxes
  • 240 booksellers
  • 3 kms along the river Seine
  • Since the 16th century
  • more than 300 000 items : books and magazines and many others items
  • Opened daily from the morning to sunset ( but generally from 11am). Then the “boxes are locked with padlocks

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    Quai Voltaire – Paris 6

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Vintage magazines

Where does the word “bouquiniste” come from ? (Bouquinistes = bookstalls)

Bouquiniste is formed with the word “bouquin”. The Bouquinistes are the shopsellers who sell “bouquins” ! (The term “bouquiniste” appeared in the dictionary of the French Academy in 1762.)

Bouquin doesn’t mean exactly “book”. The classic and exact French translation for book is : “livre”. Actually, “livre” and bouquin” are synonymous but with a slight difference (more details/explanation below).

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Quai Voltaire – Paris 6

 

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Quai Voltaire – Paris 6

The word “bouquin” was originally used to depict an old book. Nowadays, “bouquin” is more often used to depict a book in a familiar way, a bit closer to French slang for book. It’s not rude at all to use the word “bouquin”, but it’s a much less elegant way of speaking… less litterary !!!  The word “bouquin” come from the old dutch word (17th c) : boeckjijn ou boekin

My personal note : The bookstalls are so much a part of Paris’ landscape that I believe unfortunately, we Parisians (including myself), sort of forget about them.
Both planning to write this article, and taking my visitors for tours nearby and along the Seine gave me the opportunity to rediscover these iconic bookstalls much better (!) , And it made me want to spend more time browsing them. It reminded me of how pleasant it is to stroll along this huge open-air bookshop in the wonderful setting of the Seine and with Notre Dame, the Conciergerie or Le Louvre in the background. So thank you for that !!

What do they look like and where to find them ?

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Notre Dame in the background

They are 240 of them, dark green color. In French, we call their color :  “green wagon”. It refers to the dark green of old train carriages. The color has been strictly defined since 1891, so as to be in harmony with the Wallace fountains and the Morris columns. 

And we call them : “boîtes” (= “boxes”). They are made with metal and they are hanging on the parapets of the banks of the Seine.

They are all the same size : The size was fixed since 1930 :

  • Length : 2 meters
  • Between each box : 20cm.
  • Width : 0.75 meters.
  • The upper edge of the opened cover mustn’t be higher than 2.10 meters above the ground .

They are registered on the UNESCO world heritage since 1991.

There are 240 of them extending for 2,8 kilometers along the banks of the  Seine : 

WHERE ?

  • On the right bank from  Marie bridge (= Pont Marie Paris 4 – Marais neighborhood – Metro stop Pont Marie or Saint Paul) to Louvre bank ( = Quai du Louvre – nearby Le Louvre)
  • On the left bank  from Tournelle bank ( = Quai de la Tournelle – Paris 5 – Latin Quarter) to Voltaire bank ( = Quai Voltaire, nearby Orsay Museum and the rue du Bac)2018-09-07 - Carte de Paris des Bouquinistes

Being a bookseller  :

4 boxes are allowed for each bookseller (4 boxes of 2 meters long for each bookseller). The booksellers don’t pay any tax nor rent but they need to get a license ( a yearly renewable license, issued by the City of Paris). They must be open at least 4 days a week. 

What do they offer ? 

They originally used to offer (and still do !) : second hand books (including rare editions of novels), prints, old magazines, old manuscripts and newspapers, old photos, posters, and collectable postcards. You can find French books as well as English books. 

Prices are generally displayed even for old and rare items. And you can most often find something to enjoy (a book or any other items) from 1 euro !

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Posters and postcards

The tourism increasing, they now offer Paris souvenirs too (key rings, and other souvenir gifts) too. Though the city of Paris ask them to focus their offer mostly on their original activity and minimize the offer of touristic souvenirs. Thus, only 1 of the 4 boxes (at most) can be dedicated to tourist souvenirs. 

Each bookseller who is running a bookstall tend to have his own specialty. For instance, a bookseller chose to have international customers and thus, is selling the American magazine “National Geographic” and english magazine published since 1888, but he is selling French literature, science fiction and detective novels too.

A bit of History !

The tradition was born around the 16th century. Itinerant booksellers were selling books, travelling back and forth along the Seine and on the Pont Neuf too ( = the oldest Paris’ bridge).

In the 19th century, the first bouquinistes settled on the Quai Voltaire in 1821, installing their boxes permanently. 

From 1891, they were allowed to leave their items during the night. During the Universal exhibition of 1900, there were already 200 bouquinistes along the river Seine.

Image below : in 1858 

Bouquinistes Quai des grands Augustins en 1858

Quai des Grands Augustins in 1858

sur le quai des Grands Augustins - années 1900

Quai des Grands Augustins – 1900

Depicted in numerous paintings of Paris, especially during the impressionist period :

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Edouard Léon Cortès (1882-1969)

Edouard Léon Cortès (1882-1969)

My suggestion : Combine a stroll along the bouquinistes with one of Ann Jeanne in Paris tours :

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Ann Jeanne

A walking tour in the “Latin Quarter” or a walking tour “From Le Marais to Notre Dame (via Saint Louis Island)”. 

(Each tour can be customized, according to your wishes and interests or combined with another AJIP tour). All the tours are lead by me.)

  • More details about AJIP private walking tours : please click here 
  • Just of the different walking tours : please click here
  • Don’t hesitate to contact me 

You can also combine a visit of  the Bookstalls, with a visit of the Sainte Chapelle, a visit of Notre dame cathedral, a visit of Orsay museum, a visit of Shakespeare and Company bookstore and so on… !

A few more pictures !

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Bouqinistes - Quai Voltaire 1910

Quai Voltaire 1910

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1Aug

The “other” Latin Quarter

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: Non classé Paris Neighborhoods Tours
10 Comments
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THE SOUTH EAST OF THE LATIN QUARTER : the Latin Quarter OFF THE BEATEN TRACK…where Parisians love to go, where visitors rarely go…

“We did the hidden Latin Quarter tour. Cannot praise Ann Jeanne enough. Passionate with great knowledge. Very easy to talk to. Even though we had been to Paris many times we learnt so much. Would highly recommend these tours. Thank you for your time Ann Jeanne”  – Warren Greg Tania Dave

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If you like wandering off the beaten track and explore quaint neighborhoods, you’ll probably enjoy this neighborhood that has a very special place in my heart and you will see what visitors in Paris often miss.  

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Hadley and Ernest Hemingway in 1922 – It’s where they both used to live and go shopping –

The South East of the Latin Quarter that many travel websites and travel guides don’t mention. Though : 17th century facades, one of the most favourite market of the Left bank Parisians, high quality food and shops, remains of the Roman time, amazing doors…and among Hemingway’s most favorite Paris’neighborhoods. We’ll walk his favorite streets, and will see his home and the cafe he used to enjoy the most in this area

In the Snows of Kilimanjaro (E. Hemingway), Harry, the character wrote regarding this South East part of the Latin Quarter : “…There never was another part of Paris that he loved like that, the sprawling trees, the old white plastered houses painted brown below, the long treen of the autobus in that round square, the sudden drop down the hill of the rue Cardinal Lemoine to the River …”

This Latin Quarter :  often missed by visitors, though a great history and a very Parisian charm30072017-P7300180-4

It’s an area preserved, with a feel of the old times with its narrow paved streets, its markets, its old fountain and many more special places. And it has a special place in my heart, a place that I would enjoy to share with you : this neighborhood is the neighborhood/village where my grandmother was living and used to go shopping from the 30s to the 80s, where my mother has been raised and where my parents got married.30072017-P7300162-4

Location :

Located on the left bank of the river Seine, it’s the South-East part of the Latin Quarter, a part largely untouched by the Haussman huge renovation. Between the Pantheon and the Boulevard Port Royal. The South half part of the red zone on the map belowparis-5th-latin-quarter

One of the oldest part of Paris : 

This neighborhood has an amazing history and it’s also one of the oldest part of Paris. It was first built during the Roman time about 2000 years ago and the area still conserves Roman ruins. During the Middle Age, it was a very lively village. This part of Paris was annexed to Paris in 1724.  Nowadays it’s one of the most beloved part of ParisDSC_2036

30072017-P7300162-1Paths dating back to Roman time (paths from about 2000 years ago) walk the streets with old painted signs reminder of past times, and building facades dating back to the 17th centuryDSC_2111

Previously a Medieval Market street : During the Private tour I’ll designed for you, we’ll browse a market street (Mouffetard street) whose origin is probably 1350AD, possibly earlier, a wonderful market street with quality food places (vegetables, fruits, cheese, pastries, wine cellars, fresh breads and much more).30072017-P7300161-6

hemingway-in-paris

This was among Hemingway’s most favorite districts when he was living in Paris

We’ll stroll the pretty side streets with 17th century facades, old doors, an old fountain, 5 century old church, restaurants with outdoor tables, and sometimes musicians playing in the street. We’ll stop for coffee at a classic old and peaceful square… (Why not where Hemingway’ cafe was ?)…And we will see some of Hemingway‘s favorite haunts including the place where he has been living several years with Adley.

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  • A break at the Lutetia Arenas , one of the most important remains of Lutetia (Paris was known then as Lutetia) from Gallo-Roman time. These arenas restored are dating back to the 1st century AD and were a Roman amphitheater. The exact place were gladiators were fighting with lions about 2000 years ago. And in the 20th century it was one of  my mother and uncle’s favorite ‘s playgrounds ! Nowadays, it’s still a favorite playground for neighborhood kids. A visit in the Lutetia Arena can be included in the private tour0_4200_84_2716_two_Pantheon_Woodson_009Arènes_de_Lutèce,_Paris_15_August_2013_007
  • A visit to a 13th Cistercian building : The College des Bernardins (click on the link for more detail about this building). A visit of The College des Bernardins can be included in our private tour22032017-IMG_6189
  • a visit to a 17th century royal garden : Le  Jardin des Plantes (click on the link for more detail about this building), which is the first French botanical garden, and a visit of the tropical greenhouses located in this garden . This garden was one of the place where my grand mother loved to take me when I was a child. A walk in the Jardin des Plantes and a visit of the Greenhouses can be included in your private tour. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
  • A visit and a mint tea at the gorgeous white Grande Mosquée de paris with it’s impressive minaret
  • a visit to the rooftop of the Institut du Monde Arabe to enjoy a breathtaking view over the City Island (center of Paris where Notre Dame is located) can be included in your private tour

Please be aware that the Latin Quarter and Saint Germain des Prés are distinct neighborhoods ! Please, be aware that many English websites, even the most renown websites and reviewers, make a confusion between the Latin Quarter and Saint Germain des Prés; Saint Germain des Prés is a wonderful neighborhood (probably among my favorite neighborhoods, the neighborhood where I’d love to live if my current neighborhood didn’t exist… and if I had much more money too !) but Saint Germain des Prés is not the Latin Quarter. 2 different neighborhoods, 2 different atmospheres and feels. and 2 very different histories…

(MORE PHOTOS OF THE SOUTH-EAST OF THE LATIN QUARTER AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS PAGE )

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A few words about Ann Jeanne Private walks

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Share my Paris, the Paris I love. I welcome you, I accompany you and we walk at your pace. Half a day or a whole day with a native including a break in a very Parisian cafe. It’s a cross cultural experience in Paris and a way to see Paris in a Parisian perspective.

Ann Jeanne in Paris’ private tours are designed for one or two persons for a friendly and personal experience of Paris. I was born and raised in Paris. And Paris is city where I live.

More details about Ann Jeanne Paris tours Don’t hesitate to contact me

And  : Some details about the booking and pricing :

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More photos of the South-East part of the Latin Quarter

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16Jun

The Lost Generation in the spotlight in Paris

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: Movies-Videos-Books Non classé
8 Comments
David McCullough - The Greater Journey (Americans in Paris)

The Lost Generation in the spotlight…

(More details and photos about the books, below)

 

The LOST GENERATION

Literally, the Lost Generation is a group of Americans writers born between 1883 and 1900 and  disillusioned by World War I. They were displeased with social values, sexual and aesthetic conventions and established morality. They were all pioneered new ways of writing, rebelling against the traditional Victorian literary style. 

PARIS –  American writers of the Lost Generation first fled to cities such as Chicago and San Francisco, then to Paris, London, Madrid, Barcelona and Rome. But Paris was the prime city in which the “bohemian” Lost Generation chose to wander. Between 1921 and 1924, the number of Americans in Paris, grew from 6,000 to 30,000.

Gertrude Stein

Gertrude Stein

GERTRUDE STEIN and THE LOST GENERATION :  The phrase was created by Gertrude Stein (spoken to Hemingway): “You are all a lost generation.”.The Lost Generation included writers such as Ernest Hemingway, F. Scott Fitzgerald, John Dos Passos and T.S. Eliot.  

Hemingway and Fitzgerald

Ernest Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald

It included several painters as well such as Waldo Peirce. ( reference : https://mstalreja.files.wordpress.com/2010/03/ppt-the-lost-generation.pdf) 

MONTPARNASSE – Montparnasse was the gathering place of the Lost Generation. There were many cheap studios, apartments, and it was also an area filled with important cafes (Le Dôme, La Closerie des Lilas, La Rotonde and Le Select to name a few).  “Poverty is a luxury when living in Montparnasse. (Jean Cocteau)

THE LOST GENERATION IN MY BOOKSHOP

Here are the books, in the bookshop where I use to go (see the shop window above and below too) . They are all in French. But I’ve posted the English versions of these books too. Found on Amazon.fr

  • 41xVQWriQyL._SX363_BO1,204,203,200_Kiki de Montparnasse : Catel et José-Louis Bocquet (a comic – 2011)  In English as well :  Kiki de Montparnasse  In the bohemian and brilliant
    Montparnasse of the 1920s, Kiki managed to escape poverty to become one of the most charismatic figures of the avant-garde years between the wars. Partner to Man Ray – whose most legendary photos she inspired – she would be immortalised by Kisling, Foujita, Per Krohg, Calder, Utrillo and Leger. Kiki is the muse of a generation that seeks to escape the hangover of the Great War, but she is above all one of the first emancipated women of the 20th century.©Amazon

  • Ezra Pound (American poet) : Les Cantos In English : The cantos of Ezra Pound‘s 800 page Cantos, written over a period of more than fifty years (1917–1969), invites the reader to join the poet on a journey from darkness and despair towards light and positive activity. In this book, George Kearns addresses the reader approaching The Cantos for the first time. He examines the poem’s aesthetic and political-ethical-didactic dimensions and shows that despite its complexity and the many objections which can be raised to its poetics and politics, its study can be greatly rewarding.”©Amazon

  • Gertrude Stein : Autobiography d’Alice B. Tokias – In English :  The Autobiography of Alice B. Tokias The Autobiography of Alice B. Toklas was written in 1933 by Gertrude Stein in the guise of an autobiography authored by Alice B. Toklas, who was her lover. It is a fascinating insight into the art scene in Paris as the couple were friends with Paul Cézanne, Henri Matisse and Pablo Picasso. They begin the war years in England but return to France, volunteering for the American Fund for the French Wounded, driving around France, helping the wounded and homeless. After the war Gertrude has an argument with T. S. Eliot after he finds one of her writings inappropriate. They become friends with Sherwood Anderson and Ernest Hemingway. It was written to make money and was indeed a commercial success. However, it attracted criticism, especially from those who appeared in the book and didn’t like the way they were depicted.©Amazon

 

  • James Joyce : Ulysses – In English : Ulysses – Ulysses is a novel by Irish writer James Joyce. It was first serialised in parts in the American journal The Little Review from March 1918 to December 1920, and then published in its entirety by Sylvia Beach in February 1922, in Paris. It is considered to be one of the most important works of Modernist literature, and has been called “a demonstration and summation of the entire movement”. Ulysses chronicles the peripatetic appointments and encounters of Leopold Bloom in Dublin in the course of an ordinary day, 16 June 1904.©Amazon

 

  • Zelda Fitgerald : Accordez moi cette valse – In English : Save me the Waltz
    One of the great literary curios of the twentieth century Save Me the Waltz is the first and only novel by the wife of F. Scott Fitzgerald. During the years when Fitzgerald was working on Tender is the Night, Zelda Fitzgerald was preparing her own story, which strangely parallels the narrative of her husband, throwing a fascinating light on Scott Fitzgerald’s life and work. In its own right, it is a vivid and moving story: the confessional of a famous glamour girl of the affluent 1920s and an aspiring ballerina which captures the spirit of an era.©Amazon

  • Jim Fergus : Souvenir de l’amour Chrysis  – In English : The Memory of Love : The new novel by the author of the international bestseller, ONE THOUSAND WHITE WOMEN. After recovering from grave wounds suffered in The Great War, Bogey Lambert, a young cowboy from Colorado, makes his way to 1920s Paris, where he encounters the beautiful painter, Chrysis Jungbluth. Precocious, passionate, talented, the free-spirited Chrysis rebels against a society and an art world in which men have all the privilege and women none. By day, a serious student at the prestigious l’École des Beaux-Arts, at night Chrysis loses herself to the sensual pleasures of the Montparnasse nightlife, where all seems permissible. There, she and the American cowboy will live the love of a lifetime.©Amazon

  • Montparnasse : les lieux de légende – Olivier Renault – Not found in English on Amazon

  • Francis Scott Fitzgerald : Beaux et damnés – In English : The beautiful and damned Anthony Patch and Gloria Gibson are the golden children of the Jazz Age. They marry and embark on a life of glittering parties, lavish expenditure and scandalous revelry. When the money dries up their marriage founders. In this wistful novel Fitzgerald portrays the decline of youthful promise with devastating clarity.©Amazon.fr

 

 

  • Francis Scott Fitzgerald : Tendre est la nuit – In English :  Tender is the night  Set on the French Riviera in the late 1920s, Tender Is the Night is the tragic romance of the young actress Rosemary Hoyt and the stylish American couple Dick and Nicole Diver. A brilliant young psychiatrist at the time of his marriage, Dick is both husband and doctor to Nicole, whose wealth goads him into a lifestyle not his own, and whose growing strength highlights Dick’s harrowing demise.©Amazon.fr

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  • F. Scott Fitzgerald : Gatsby le Magnifique /// In English : The Great Gatsby – The story focuses on the young and mysterious millionaire Jay Gatsby and his obsession for the enigmatic and beautiful former debutante Daisy Buchanan. Following a colourful cast of characters who live in the fictional town of West Egg on prosperous Long Island in the summer of 1922. This is a classic that has been loved by many for generations.©Amazon.fr
  • D’Ernest Hemingway à Henry Miller : Mythes et réalités des écrivains américains à Paris (1919 – 1939) – de Daniel Gallagher – Not found in English on Amazon.fr

  • Hemingway : Paris est une fête – Nouvelles complètes /// In English : A Moveable feast – Published posthumously in 1964, A Moveable Feast remains one of Ernest Hemingway’s most beloved works…Featuring a personal foreword by Patrick Hemingway, Ernest’s sole surviving son, and an introduction by the editor and grandson of the author, Seán Hemingway, this new edition also includes a number of unfinished, never-before-published Paris sketches revealing experiences that Hemingway had with his son Jack and his first wife, Hadley. Also included are irreverent portraits of other luminaries, such as F. Scott Fitzgerald and Ford Madox Ford, and insightful recollections of his own early experiments with his craft. The restored edition of A Moveable Feast brilliantly evokes the exuberant mood of Paris after World War I and the unbridled creativity and enthusiasm that Hemingway himself experienced. ©Amazon.fr

  • Hemingway : Le Jardin d’Eden  – Hemingway ///  In English  The Garden of Eden is the last uncompleted novel of Ernest Hemingway, which he worked on intermittently from 1946 until his death in 1961. Set on the Côte d’Azur in the 1920s, it is the story of a young American writer, David Bourne, his glamorous wife, Catherine, and the dangerous, erotic game they play when they fall in love with the same woman.©Amazon

  • John Dos Passos : L’initiation d’un homme : 1917 /// In English : John Dos Passos : One Man’s Initiation – 1917 – “One Man’s Initiation:1917” was the first novel of the American writer John Dos Passos (1896 — 1970) and offers a semi-autobiographical account of the writer’s experience as an ambulance driver in France as a young man.©Amazon.fr

  • 41UCj7i0VjL._SX321_BO1,204,203,200_John Dos Passos : Lettres à germaine Lucas Championnière – Written in French by John Dos Passos – Not found in English. 
  • Miller – Grandeur nature – Brassai /// In English : Henry Miller, The Paris Years – This book is a must-read for Henry Miller devotees who want to understand the genesis of this great writer. Written by his close friend Brassai a fascinating story is told about Miller’s down and out days in Paris during the 1930’s and how his vision of writing developed. It is replete with personal anecdotes about Miller’s views of Paris, his hatred (ambivalent as it was) of his homeland and his relations with the women in his life. It more than anything shows Miller as the writer refusing to sell-out by having the essence of his writing edited away by the censorius literary status quo of his day. (Review read on ©Amazon.fr)

  • Henry Miller Printemps noir /// In English : Black Spring : Written during the same period as “Tropic of Cancer and Tropic of Capricorn”, and banned in the English-speaking world upon its publication in Paris in 1936, “Black Spring” is one of Miller’s finest achievements, and arguably his most distinguished book from a stylistic point of view. It consists of a number of linked episodes describing some of the crucial years in his personal saga, from recollections of his childhood in Brooklyn to his time in Paris.Imbued with the spirit of Miller’s life experience, “Black Spring” is a linguistic tour de force which brings together the American author’s greatest merits.©Amazon.fr

  • Henry Miller Jours tranquilles à Clichy /// In English : Quiet days in Clichy : ‘Here, even if I had a thousand dollar in my pocket, I know of no sight which could arouse in me the feeling of ecstasy’Looking back to Henry Miller’s bohemian life in 1930s Paris, when he was an obscure, penniless writer, Quiet Days in Clichy is a love letter to a city. As he describes nocturnal wanderings through shabby Montmartre streets, cafés and bars, sexual liaisons and volatile love affairs, Miller brilliantly evokes a period that would shape his entire life and oeuvre. . ‘His writing is flamboyant, torrential, chaotic, treacherous, and dangerous’ Anaïs Nin ©Amazon.fr

  • Henry Miller : Tropique du Cancer – Tropique du Capricorne // in English : Tropic of Cancer  ...Henry Miller’s first novel Tropic of Cancer …Set in Paris in the 1930s, it features a starving American writer who lives a bohemian life among prostitutes, pimps, and artists. Banned in the US and the UK for more than thirty years because it was considered pornographic, Tropic of Cancer continued to be distributed in France and smuggled into other countries. When it was first published in the US in 1961, it led to more than 60 obscenity trials until a historic ruling by the Supreme Court defined it as a work of literature. … – Tropic of Capricorn – A cult modern classic, Tropic of Capricorn is … a story of sexual and spiritual awakening, Tropic of Capricorn shocked readers when it was published in 1939. A mixture of fiction and autobiography …Tropic of Capricorn paints a dazzling picture of the life of the writer and of New York City between the wars. Henry Miller is widely recognised as an irreverent, risk-taking writer who redefined the novel and made the link between the European avant-garde and the American Beat generation.©Amazon.fr

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  • William Faulkner : Pylône. In English : Pylon : Pylon, first published in 1935, takes place at an air show in a thinly disguised New Orleans named New Valois. An unnamed reporter for a local newspaper tries to understand a very modern ménage a trois of flyers on the brainstorming circuit.©Amazon.fr
  • William Faulkner : Le Bruit et la fureur. In English : The sound and the fury : Ever since the first furore was created on its publication in 1929, The Sound and the Furyhas been considered one of the key novels of this century. Depicting the gradual disintegration of the Compson family through four fractured narratives, The Sound and the Fury explores intense, passionate family relationships where there is no love, only self-centredness. At its heart this is a novel about lovelessness. ©Amazon.fr
  • 51DtbCRRugL._SX404_BO1,204,203,200_La génération perdue des américains à Paris 1917 – 1939 – Vincent Bouvet has written a few books translated into English on the Roaring Twenties. This book has just been published and apparently hasn’t been translated in English yet. The title in English should be : “The Lost Generation of the Americans in Paris – 1917-1939”

 

  • 41IkUIVVrQL._SX334_BO1,204,203,200_Anaïs Nin : Journal de l’amour et Henry et June  /// In English : Henry and June: From “A Journal of Love” – The Unexpurgated Diary of Anaïs Nin (1931-1932) – 
    Anais Nin (1903-1977) was a French-born author of Catalan, Cuban and Danish descent. She became famous for her erotica, as well as for her published diaries, which span more than sixty years, beginning when she was eleven years old and ending shortly before her death. This bestseller covers a single momentous year during Nin’s life in Paris, when she met Henry Miller and his wife, June. “Closer to what many sexually adventuresome women experience than almost anything I’ve ever read….I found it a very erotic book and profoundly liberating” (Alice Walker). ©Amazon.fr

  • David McCullough : Le Voyage à Paris Les Américains à l’école de la France /// In English :  The greater Journey – Americans in Paris – The bestseller that tells the remarkable story of the generations of American artists, writers, and doctors who traveled to Paris, the intellectual, scientific, and artistic capital of the western world, fell in love with the city and its people, and changed America through what they learned, told by America’s master historian, David McCullough.©Amazon.fr

  • Adrienne Monnier – “Les Gazettes”  and “Rue de l’Odéon” /// Not found in English version on ©Amazon.fr

  • 41tV7bLbjiL._SX331_BO1,204,203,200_Sinclair Lewis – Babbit, first published in 1922, is a novel by Sinclair Lewis. Largely a satire of American culture, society, and behavior, it critiques the vacuity of middle-class American life and its pressure toward conformity. An immediate and controversial bestseller, Babbitt was influential in the decision to award Lewis the Nobel Prize in literature in 1930. The word “Babbitt” entered the English language as a “person and especially a business or professional man who conforms unthinkingly to prevailing middle-class standards”.©Amazon.fr
  • 51AF62PJG1L._SX283_BO1,204,203,200_Laure Murat : Passage de l’Odéon(not found in English on Amazon)
  • Susan Sontag : Le Faucon Pelerin  Susan Sontag was born in Manhattan in 1933 and studied at the universities of Chicago, Harvard and Oxford. She is the author of four novels, a collection of stories, several plays, and six books of essays, among them Illness as Metaphor and AIDS and Its Metaphors. Her books are translated into thirty-two languages. In 2001 she was awarded the Jerusalem Prize for the body of her work, and in 2003 she received the Prince of Asturias Prize for Literature and the Peace Prize of the German Book Trade. She died in December 2004. (not found in English on Amazon)

51TDR5QY9AL._SX315_BO1,204,203,200_Des Américains à Paris – René Maurice – Not found in English on Amazon.fr

  • 31AVA-UtX-L._SX263_BO1,204,203,200_Gilles Leroy : Alabama song (Goncourt Prize in 2007) Not found in English on ©Amazon.fr

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Your Private Walk with Ann Jeanne in Paris :

in Montparnasse, the gathering neighborhood of the Lost Generation, 

You’d like to feel like a local and having a tour in a Paris neighborhood, but you don’t feel having a tour with a group ?

  • You’d like to discover Paris off the beaten path ?
  • You’d like to see Paris in another perspective and to know more about Paris lifestyle ?

WELCOME !

CONTACT me for a private walking tour and EXPERIENCE PARIS as a local

  • You only, or you and the person you choose.
  • Duration of the tour : from 2 hours.  It includes a coffee in an authentic cafe 
  • The tour can be customized according to your preferences and interests 

For more details :  The tours  and Practical details and fees 

Don’t hesitate to contact me

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… A few days later: the BEAT GENERATION in another bookshop located in the Latin Quarter : 

About the Beat Generation

About the Beat Generation

 

 

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17May

Saint Germain des Prés : a GRAND CLASSIC

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: Paris Neighborhoods Tours
7 Comments
Saint Germain des Prés

Café Le Flore

The “grand classic” private walking tour in Saint Germain des Prés with Ann Jeanne in Paris

On the left bank, Saint Germain des prés is renowned for its famous cafes, its narrow streets and antique shops.. After World War II, Saint Germain des Pres became synonymous of intellectual life, centered around bars and cafes.

Saint Germain des Prés reached its heyday in the 50s

Philosophers, writers, actors and musicians used to meet and stay in cafes, clubs… : Hemingway, Miller, Picasso, Jim Morrison, Sartre; Beauvoir… Literature, poetry, and Jazz perfumed all the lifestyle in the area.

Among this neighborhood’s regulars (random list) : Hemingway, Picasso, Miller, Sartre, Beauvoir, Ellington, Hampton, Miles Davis, Jim Morrison, Oscar Wilde, Delacroix, Gertrude Stein, Boris Vian, Verlaine, Rimbaud, Mallarmé, Cocteau, Duras, Prévert, Johnny Depp, F F Coppola, Camus, James Joyce…

The leading figures of the time have now gone, but you still feel the special atmosphere of this quarter of Paris. In Saint Germain des Pres  : lots of restaurants, cinemas, antique shops, galeries… Though today, you’ll find haute-couture, and fashion shops too (Vuitton, Armani, Dior…)

Saint Germain des Prés : the Kingdom of iconic cafés : 

The most famous cafes of the area are : Le cafe de Flore, les Deux Magots, Le Bonaparte, La Palette, the café Procope (the oldest Paris’ café, actually a restaurant nowadays) the Brasserie Lipp…

Nice XVIII century buildings, cobblestone streets…And  the Saint Germain des Pres Church which is one of the oldest church of Paris.

Today, a very classic, elegant and trendy area.

My advice : 

  • No specific monuments except Saint Germain des Prés church, but in my opinion a great area to feel what Paris life is. Very liked by Parisians, and great cafés for cafés lovers. A neighborhood to stroll in. In Saint Germain des Prés, everything is a classic. And so much History.
  • Don’t miss “Le Flore” or its sister “Les 2 Magots” nearby the church, two classics. And if you’ve some time left, either carry on to the river Seine (northern Saint Germain des Prés), or to Saint Sulpice church (southern StGermain des Prés) and Pierre Hermé for a gorgeous pastry (nearby Saint Sulpice – Rue Bonaparte).

 

Some addresses :

  • Capture d’écran 2016-05-17 à 03.03.56Laduré (pastry very well know for its macarons) : pastry shop and tea room : rue Jacob (100 meters from Saint Germain church)
  • Pierre Hermé (pastry – maybe the best in France) : rue Bonaparte – Métro Saint Sulpice or Odeon (both line 4)
  • Gerard Mulot (pastry) : 76 rue de Seine (on your way to Saint Sulpice) www.gerard–mulot.com
  • Le Flore and Les 2 Magots (iconic Paris cafés)  : boulevard Saint Germain des Prés – Métro Saint Germain des prés (line 4)
  • L’Avant Comptoir : place de l’Odeon – Metro stop Odeon – for a snack, a crêpe or a gaufre. Métro Odéon (line 4)

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The Saint Germain des Prés private walking tour with Ann Jeanne in Paris. 

l1008109A private  tour in one of the most classic and elegant part of Paris. Saint Germain des Prés is synonymous with chic and Parisian culture. 

Along our way : 

One of oldest church in Paris, Hemingway‘s favorite restaurant, where Sartre used to live, one of the oldest church in Paris, a chocolate shop which opened more than 250 years ago, a strange art gallery which exhibits only one work of art at a time, the favorite café where Fine art students still use to meet, the café where Sartre and Beauvoir used to philosophize and write , you’ll taste among the best macarons in the city of light, and if you choose to, some beautiful cream puffs too from a shop specialized in this pastry. You’ll see (and visit if you’d like to) the studio where Delacroix used to live and paint, the oldest café in Paris, the exact place where the guillotine was first tried, you’ll walk in a charming cobblestone alleyway…etc 

A tour with Ann Jeanne in Paris is also a way to meet a Parisian and to know more about Paris culture and everyday life, and to experience Paris as a true Parisian. And I will answer your questions to help you to get the most of your stay in Paris (tips, informations…)

Half day or whole day private tour to experience Paris and Saint Germain des Prés as a true Parisian contact me

Henri Leroux - Saint Germain des Prés

The oldest café in Paris

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Eugène Delacroix used to live in Saint Germain des Prés

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13May

MONTPARNASSE : the Lost Generation and the “Roaring 20s”

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: Paris Neighborhoods Tours
9 Comments
Hemingway and Fitzgerald

Mode-des-années-20-1Montparnasse  : the spirit of the beginning of the 20th century.

Léonard Tsuguharu Foujita

Léonard Tsuguharu Foujita

The heart of Montparnasse is more specifically, the area around Vavin Metro StopSituation de Montparnasse ds Paris.09

Montparnasse often gets bypassed when visitors come to Paris. At first sight : not a touristic place, no highlight spots, nor renown buildings. But culturally, it is a central neighborhood, rich by its history. And a very Parisian and nice place to live in. 

Montparnasse is loved by so many Parisians … and unfortunatly missed by so many visitors…  !

Surely a neighborhood where to find the spirit from the beginning of the 20th century. A wonderful mix of new and old.  An area where you have the feeling of a real neighborhood. And without hesitation, the area where I would choose and love to live if I had to move (unless I chose Saint Germain des Prés !).

Location : Montparnasse is located on the Left Bank of the river Seine and covers parts of the 5th, 6th,14th and 15th arrondissements. It’s bordered by the Luxembourg garden to its north. 

LeDome3Some history 

Montparnasse reached its heyday in the 1920s and 30s, between WWI and WWII. Montparnasse became the heart of intellectual and artistic life in Paris. It’s called “Les Années Folles” (= the Roaring 20s”).  and Vavin (Metro Stop : Vavin) was the center of the neighborhood.

Many artists came from Montmartre to settle there in search of low rents (lodging and workshops). 

Others from around the world (from Europe, including Russia and Ukraine, from the U.S., Canada, Mexico, central and South America, and Japan) came to stay in Montparnasse, looking for a place they could freely work and create. Between 1921 and 1924, the number of Americans in Paris swelled from 6000 to 30000. 

Le Dome in 1930 by Kertsz

Le Dome in 1930 by Kertsz

Some of the artists in Montparnasse in the 20s and 30s

I’ll take you where Hemingway and Scott Fitzgerald first met.

Hemingway and Fitzgerald

Hemingway and Fitzgerald

Painters, writers, sculptors, poets, photographers, composers... And most of the Paris artistic community settled in Montparnasse neighborhood.

Pablo Picasso, Samuel Beckett, Joan Miro, James Joyce, Gertrude Stein, Tsugouharu Foujita, Diego Rivera, Modigliani, Guillaume Apollinaire, Salvatore Dali, Man Ray, Marc Chagall, Eric Satie, Zadkine, Degas, Hemingway, Scott Fitzgerald, Henri Miller, George Braque, Jean Cocteau, Chaim Soutine, Blaise Cendrars, Fernand Léger, André Breton, Giacometti, Dos Passos…

In Montparnasse are the iconic cafés of the Roaring 20’s (and of the following decades too !)

Those which were the haunts of so many artists and writers such as Hemingway, Picasso, Fitzgerald, Desnos, Sartre, Beauvoir, Miller, Anaïs Nin, Braque… They frequented the cafés along Boulevard Montparnasse, such as La Closerie des Lilas, La Rotonde (photo above), Le Dôme (photos below), Le Select, La Coupole…

La Closerie des Lilas

La Closerie des Lilas

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La Rotonde

Le Dome

Le Dôme

Café Le Select TB

Le Select in the 20s

Beautiful architecture : 

 

La Closerie des Lilas

La Closerie des Lilas

 

Wallace Fountain - Rue Vavin

Welcoming and historic cafés

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La Rotonde

 

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Le Vavin

DSC_6129Kiki de Montparnasse : the Montparnasse’s muse. She was the model of many artists : Man Ray, Fujita, Modigliani… She was the lover of Man Ray.

Kiki par Man Ray

Kiki by Man Ray

Nowadays, young students from around the world, come around the art supplies shops and arts academy of the rue de la Grande Chaumière. 

Traditionnaly, Montparnasse is also “home” to Parisians coming from Brittany (Western France), because trains from Montparnasse station travels back and forth to Brittany. 

More recently, since the 70s, Montparnasse neighborhood has become more upscale and many old ateliers have been converted into upscale housing. Nowadays. But the cafés of the 20s and many others, restaurants, many crêperies (as crêpes are traditionally a Breton meal… !) still there

profil-paris-avec-oiseauxMy personal story linked to Montparnasse :

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Ann Jeanne

Many Breton people came to settle in Paris from the mid 19th century to the 1960s.This is what my Breton grand Parents did in the 30s. They came from Brittany when they were very young (one of my grand father came on his own, knowing nobody in Paris and around… and he was only…. 13…. didn’t speak very well French and was feeling so lonely when he arrived….)

My 2 grand mothers and 2 grand fathers came from Brittany by train, arrived at Montparnasse train station and lived the rest of their lives in Paris

I live 10 minutes walk from the heart of Montparnasse and I’ve been studying during my secondary school years in Montparnasse. This is a place where I very often go : to the cinema, to meet friends, to read at one of the iconic cafés (or less renown cafes) or to eat buckwheat pancakes. This is the place where I used to dance Breton dances very regularly a few decades ago (Remember : Montparnasse is the Breton neighborhood of Paris !)

Walk in the footsteps of the great artists and writers with Ann Jeanne in Paris. Don’t hesitate to contact me !

profil-paris-avec-oiseauxMore photos at the bottom of this page

Boulevard Montparnasse

Boulevard Montparnasse – La Rotonde in the background

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This is Montparnasse too !

My advice :

  • Get out at the Metro Stop Vavin (not Metro Stop : Montparnasse) which is the center of the real Montparnasse neighborhood. 
  • Enjoy a drink at “La Coupole” or at the café “Le Vavin” (rue de Vavin) to let you have a feeling of a real neighborhood. 
  • Rue Vavin (a small and short street), you’ll find one of the best Paris “Chocolatier” (Jean Paul Hevin). Also nice small shops. 
  • After your Montparnasse visit, you can enjoy the Luxembourg garden, just nearby (end of rue de Vavin)
  • You can choose to have a nice meal (pricey) at Le Select, Le Dome (for fish meals), or a nice restaurant in a small street rue Jules Chaplain. 
  • Lots of crêperies rue de Montparnasse for a nice meal (cheaper) and delicious. 

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profil-paris-avec-oiseauxMeet the soul of Montparnasse with Ann Jeanne in Paris, 

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Ann Jeanne

Walk in the footsteps of the great artists and writers who first found inspiration there : Hemingway, Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald, Gertrude Stein, Modigliani, Man Ray, Picasso, Modigliani,…  You’ll see the place where Hemingway and Fitzgerald first met, the place where Hemingway wrote “The Sun also rises”, some  the streets where most of the theaters and cabarets of the area were located (some are still there), the art supply shops and academies of art where the artists used to go, the iconic cafés of the 20’s and of the following decades (still very renown and appreciated cafes-brasseries), the place where you can enjoy the best crêpes of Paris, one of the best and chic art fair of the left bank (depends on the day of the visit), a very lively open market (depends on the day of your visit), wonderful building façades.

Private walking tours : You only, or you and the person you choose. I’ll show you around in Montparnasse. Don’t hesitate to contact me   

Montparnasse is one of my most favorite neighborhoods. This is the neighborhood where I’ve been studying several years at the secondary school, the neighborhood where I’ve always loved meeting my friends, going to cafes. So many wonderful cafes which such a great history…     

Nearby Notre Dame

YOUR Private walk, with Ann Jeanne in Paris, native Parisian

  • Feel like a Parisian ! No lectures, but an encounter, and a personal and intimate walk while you share the Paris I love and see places you may not have seen on your own. See Paris in another perspective and know more about Paris lifestyle and daily life too

CONTACT me for a private walking tour and EXPERIENCE PARIS like a true Parisian

  • You only, or you and the person you choose.
  • Duration of the tour : half day tour or full day tour, but it can be adjusted to your wishes It includes a coffee in an authentic Paris cafe. The tours can be customized according to your preferences and interests For more details : The tours – Booking and Pricing – Don’t hesitate to contact me

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Nearby the Luxembourg garden

 

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A Florist in Montparnasse

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Montparnasse - FacadeMore details :

  • Close access to major centers (a few minutes walks to Luxembourg garden, 15-20 minutes walk to Saint Germain des Prés and the Latin Quarter, 15 minutes by subway to the Eiffel Tower, lots of restaurants, an open market 3 days per week, many cafés (La Rotonde, Le Select, Le Dome, La Coupole…)
  • The renown Montparnasse cemetery (the second largest burial ground in Paris) : graves of many of the neighborhood’s most illustrious residents (Baudelaire, Beckett, Bartholdi – (who designed the Statue of Liberty), Maupassant, Man Ray, Samuel Beckett, Sartre, Beauvoir, Jean Seberg, Ionesco, Saint Saëns, Satie, Soutine, Zadkine, – Entrance on Bd Edgar Quinet – Paris 14 – Metro Stop : Edgar Quinet
  • La Closerie des Lilas : a Left Bank institution – A chic Piano Bar with a bronze plaque with Hemingway’s name. a Brasserie and a restaurant (pricey).  An article about Closerie des Lilas coming up soon. – 171 boulevard Montparnasse – Paris 6 – Metro Stop : Port Royal or Bus n°38 – Vavin (5 minutes walk)
  • Edgar Quinet Market : An excellent street Market every Wednesday and Saturday (fresh food and clothes). A crafts market on Sundays. – Boulevard Edgar Quinet – Paris 14
  • Bourdelle Museum :  a heaven of peace for lovers of art, sculpting. museum dedicated to the life and works of the sculptor Antoine Bourdelle. – Metro Stop : Montparnasse
  • La Fondation Cartier for exhibitions of contemporary art (a building designed by Jean Nouvel)
  • Numerous crêperies in the neighborhood (Metro stop : Vavin or Montparnasse) : a nice and affordable break (salted wheat flour crêpes and sweet crêpes). Crêpes = thin pancakes.  

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29Feb

La Closerie des Lilas – a delicious portrait of the old Paris

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: Cafés-Pastries
1 Comment
La Closerie nowadays

“La Closerie des Lilas” means “Small enclosed lilac garden”. It’s a place, with an enormous charm, calm and elegant, which makes Paris magic. It’s one of the mythical brasseries of Montparnasse neighborhood.  The ambiance of old-world Paris.

WHERE ?

La Closerie des Lilas

“La Closerie des Lilas” is located in Montparnasse neighborhood which was, between WWI and WWII, the heart of the artistic and intellectual Parisian life (after Montmartre and before Saint Germain des Prés heydays). On the corner of Boulevard Montparnasse and Boulevard Saint Michel. A bit off the beaten path. Most regulars are Parisians.

A ONE MINUTE VIDEO FILMED ON A SUNDAY AFTERNOON :

A bit of History : 

You can’t forget the richness of its past… La Closerie des Lilas is over 100 years old. It has entertained visitors from all over the world. And many writers and artists met up at the Closerie des Lilas.

Here, you can feel the presence of Hemingway : 

“The only decent café in our neighborhood was La Closerie des Lilas, and it was one of the best cafes in Paris. It was warm in the winter and the terrace was lovely in the spring and fall,” Hemingway – A Moveable feast

Also the hang-out for : Verlaine, Apollinaire, Beckett, Man Ray, Sartre, Baudelaire, Cezanne, Modigliani, Oscar Wilde, Emile Zola, André Gide to name a few.

A revered haunt for the Lost generation writers  : Francis Scott Fitzgerald, Gertrude Stein, Hemingway who used to come here to write. La Closerie des Lilas was one of Hemingway’s favorite cafés, where he wrote parts of “The sun also rises here”, and where Scott Fitzgerald showed him “Gatsby” for the first time. Behind the bar, one can find a picture of young Hemingway in an army uniform form WWI.

THE SETTING

A warm and cosy ambiance.

A restaurant with a pleasant terrace, a quaint little tree-enclosed patio, a brasserie, and a bar.

The bar : a gorgeous setting, low-lighted, with furniture made in polished mahogany, red-leather confortable banquettes, A brass and chrome bar. There are one-by-three-inch brass nameplates on the corner of the tables with engraved names of literary figures who supposedly sat there. The bartenders are dressed in white jacket. They will serve you a customized cocktail. Live music most evenings and the sunday afternoon too make the place even more special…. and a wonderful Art Deco bathroom. Probably the most beautiful bathroom in Paris  … and a wonderful Art Deco bathroom. Probably the most beautiful bathroom in Paris.                                                        

Practical details :

  • La Closerie des Lilas – 171 boulevard Montparnasse, Paris 6 –  Hours: 12 noon – 1:00 a.m.  Web site : www.closeriedeslilas.fr    Tel. : + 33(0)1 40 51 34 50
  • Metro : Vavin (line 4) or Raspail (line 4 and 6) (Both metro stop at about 7 min walk) RER : Port Royal (just beside the Closerie des Lilas), Bus : 38 (a bus stop just nearby)

My advice :

  • a must-go on your visit to Paris,
  • Why not a drink (a cocktail, a coffee, a hot chocolate or whatever) in the gorgeous bar, where the bartender will serve you a customized cocktail if you wish to !
  • When you have a drink , you can have a pastry too. The “assiette gourmande” is delightful (An “assiette gourmande” is an assortment of a few very littles pastries). 
  • Or for a lunch or dinner either at the restaurant (but quite pricey, an upscale restaurant) or the brasserie.
  • After a lunch, you can either go for a walk in the Observatoire garden, (nearby –   ) then the Luxembourg garden (10 minutes walk from La Closerie), or go for a walk in the Montparnasse neighborhood (around Vavin) then to the Luxembourg garden (an entrance nearby Vavin street)
  • … And don’t miss the bathroom, which is really gorgeous ! Beautiful Art Deco style. 
  • The 4 other popular literary cafés/brasseries in Montparnasse neighborhood are : “Le Select’, “La Rotonde”, “Le Dome” and “La Coupole”

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21Jul

HEMINGWAY in Paris

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: People
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Ernest-Hemingway-quote

01 - Photo Hemingway - a moveable feast

Ernest HEMINGWAY :

1918 – La Madeleine (Metro : Madeleine)

First place for Hemingway in Paris : in 1918, Hemingway, a U.S. Red Cross volunteer at the time, found himself in front of the damaged façade of the church.

Hemingway in Saint Germain des Prés :

  • In 1921, Hemingway and his first wife, Hadley, arrived in Paris and stayed in the “Hôtel d’Angleterre” ( room 14 – 44 rue Jacob – Paris 6) – Metro Saint Germain des Prés), recommended by the American writer, Sherwood Anderson, who also gave him letters of introduction to Gerturde Stein, James Joyce, and to the publisher Sylvia Beach.
    Hemingway often enjoyed coming to “Le Pré aux Clercs”, a cafe located nearby the Hôtel d’Angleterre, (30, rue Bonaparte – Paris 6 – Opening hours : 7/7 8am – 2am)
  • Brasserie Lipp (151 boulevard Saint Germain – Paris 6 – Metro Mabillon)  Hemingway was very fond of this place.
  • Michaud (= now called : “Le Comptoir des Saints-Pères”) in Saint Germain des Prés (corner of rue Jacob and rue des   Saints-Pères) – A restaurant
  • Cafe de Flore, 172 boulevard Saint Germain – Metro Saint Germain des Prés: After the war, Hemingway used to come to the Coupole regularly.
  • Les Deux Magots, 6 place Saint Germain des Prés – Metro Saint Germain des Prés : One of the oldest cafes in Paris. Among its regulars : Verlaine, Rimbaud, Stéphane Mallarmé, Picasso, Oscar Wilde, André Malraux and Antoine de Saint Exupéry.

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Hemingway in Montparnasse :

  • 1924 – Hemingway moves in a flat near the Luxembourg Gardens (113, rue Notre-Dame-des -Champs – Metro Vavin)
  • La Rotonde (105, boulevard Montparnasse – Paris 14 – Metro Vavin) : That’s where he sometimes meets Henry Miller, Scott Fitzgerald and George Gershwin
  • Les Blés d’Ange (boulangerie) – 151 boulevard du Montparnasse – Metro Vavin : That’s where Hemingway was buying his pastries. It was easy for him to get there as it was opposite his house by Notre Dame des Champs.
  • La Closerie des Lilas**   Article about the Luxembourg Gardens : coming next°°° (171, boulevard Montparnasse – RER : Port Royal or Metro : Vavin) He wrote that it was “one of the best cafes in Paris” and it became his “home cafe”. Others writers used to come at the Closerie des Lilas such as Modigliani, Pablo Picasso, Oscar Wilde, Verlaine, Gide, Aragon, Fitzgerald, Sartre, Beckett. Earlier, other famous regulars used to come in this cafe such as : Zola, Gautier, Baudelaire, Honoré de Balzac… That’s where Hemingway wrote his short stories. That’s also where he used to come after splitting up with this first wife, Hadley.
  • Le Select°°°° (99 boulevard Montparnasse – Metro Vavin) – Ernest Hemingway often start his day with breakfast at the Select. He also set several scenes in his novel “The Sun also Rises” (1926) here
  • The Dôme ( 108, boulevard Montparnasse – Paris 14 – Metro Vavin) : Hemingway loved this cafe because often frequented by writers, painters, and artists’ models, such as Gauguin, Modigliani, Kandinsky, Picasso, Miller, Nin and Man Ray.
  • La Coupole, 102 boulevard Montparnasse – Paris 14 – Metro Vavin
  • The Dingo Bar ( = today : “Auberge de Venise” – 10 rue Delambre – Paris 14 – Metro Vavin) : That’s where Hemingway met Scott Fitzgerald for the first time. Where Picasso, and Jean Cocteau used to go as well
  • Hotel Venitia (no longer exists. Now, t’s a travel bookshop) 159 boulevard Montparnasse – Paris 14– Metro Port Royal, Vavin or Raspail
  • Ernest-Hemingway-quote

  • Hemingway and the Luxembourg Gardens** and museum (Metro : Luxembourg or Vavin)

    • This was Hemingway’s favorite place to walk. That’s where he would  often meet Gertrude Stein (The American writer, poetess and feminist) who was walking her dog there.
    • He also enjoyed admiring the impressionist paintings in the Luxembourg museum.  In “A moveable feast” he wrote : “I was learning something from the paintings of Cezanne that made writing simple true sentences far from enough to make the stories have the dimensions that I was trying to put in them. I was learning very much from him…”

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Hemingway in the Latin quarter :

This neighborhood inspired ‘s greatest early works.

  • 1922-1923 : Ernest Hemingway and his wife, Hadley rented a very modest 2 rooms flat on the 3rd floor at 74, rue Cardinal Lemoine (Paris 5 – Metro Cardinal Lemoine). Hemingway described this place in “The Snows of Kilimanjaro”.
  • Then he rented a studio, (39, rue Descartes – Paris 5 – Metro Cardinal Lemoine) in the attic in a four-story house. There was a small restaurant Chez Verlaine, on the ground floor.

About that time, Hemingway wrote : “I was always hungry with the walking and the cold and the working”.

  • Café des Amateurs (today “Café Delmas”, 2 place de la Contrescarpe – Paris 5 – Metro Cardinal Lemoine).  Hemingway wasn’t very fond of the place because regularly frequented by drunks from the neighboring houses, but started “A moveable feast” with the description of the Amateurs : “The Cafe des Amateurs was the cesspool of the rue Mouffetard, that wonderful narrow crowded market street which led into the Place Contrescarpe.”

(Nearby, the “Rue Mouffetard”, one of the Paris’s oldest and liveliest streets, with a number of cafes, restaurants and a famous open market.)

  • Shakespeare and Company :  Sylvia Beach, the owner, gave him a borrowing card allowing him to take as many books as he wanted. In “A moveable Feast” Hemingway writes : “She had pretty legs and she was kind, cheerful and interested, and loved to make jokes and gossip. No one that I ever knew was nicer to me.”hemingway_bookshop devant Shakespeare

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Other Hemingway’s locations 

Hotel Ritz – 15 place Vendôme – Paris 1 – Metro Tuileries : The bar at the Ritz was one of Hemingway’s favorite place. He spent  many evenings there with Scott Fitzgerald. To commemorate its guest, the bar was named after Hemingway.

69 rue Froidevaux – Paris 14 – Metro Gaité or Denfert Rochereau : The second apartment where he lived with his second wife, Pauline Pfeiffer.

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AND…… : Do you REMEMBER HEMINGWAY in “MIDNIGHT IN PARIS”  ?

ernesthemingway

 

 Article about La Closerie des Lilas 

**   Article about the Luxembourg Gardens : coming next

°°°° Article about Le Select coming next

 

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28May

Café de Flore

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: Cafés-Pastries
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Café Le Flore

A famous and charming cafe… Probably the most famous and charming cafe in Paris. Though a touristic cafe too, Le Flore is a cafe where you’ll find Parisians, alone or with friends. Spending time discussing, watching the passers by. The Art Deco interior of this café, all-red seating, mahogany and mirrors, has changed little since the war.

Le Flore is located on the left bank of the river Seine, in Saint Germain des Prés neighborhood, nearby the Saint Germain des Prés church, one of the oldest Paris’ church. 

Le Flore offers tes, coffees, hot chocolates, alcoholic drinks and juices, snacks and full meals

A  bit of History :

Le Flore was opened in the 1880s

In the 1950s, french intellectuals used to come and stay there, talking about new philosophical ideas. Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir developed their philosophy of existentialism here.

In the 30’s, the gathering place for the surrealist, the publishers, the artists and directors.

After the WWII, Le Flore was the headquarter for the existentialists : Simone de Beauvoir, Jean-Paul Sartre, Boris Vian and writers and artists such as Ernest Hemingway, Picasso, Brigitte Bardot, Françoise Sagan, Romain Gary…

Nowadays, Le Flore is still a popular location for celebrities. Many artists, writers, intellectuals, politics use to come to “Le Flore”.  Since 1994 the “Prix de Flore”, a literary prize is awarded annually at the Café de Flore.

Practical details : 

Le Flore – 172 boulevard Saint-Germain – Paris 6 (at the corner of Boulevard St Germain and rue Saint Benoit)  Metro Stop : Saint Germain des Prés (line 4)

Below : a 40 secondes video about “Le Flore” (I am not on this video, nor filming it)

My advice : 

  • If you prefer to sit outside, choose the Saint Benoit street side of “Le Flore”, more “Parisian” and quiet.
  • You can buy Le Flore crockery if you wish to (cups,  saucers, glasses… etc with the words in green “Café de Flore”). Just ask a waiter who will show you the display case ). A nice gift to bring back home for your friends or family…. or yourself (!)
  • Nearby : “Les 2 magots”(the Flore’s sister), located in front of Saint Germain des Prés’s church. In “Les 2 magots” you can ask for a Pierre Hermé mille feuille which is gorgeous.

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