MONTMARTRE : a village in Paris

Montmartre is one of the most picturesque and visited areas in Paris. 

My MONTMARTRE key words  : 

village, picturesque, touristic, artists, cobblestone, bird’s eye view, street music, windmill, cafés, Renoir, Susanne Valadon, Maurice Utrillo, Dalida, Amélie (the movie), hill, stairs, 

Map of the arrondissements of Paris

Montmartre is an area located in the North of Paris (in the 18th arrondissement of the City)

Location

  • Montmartre is set on a hill (= the “Butte Montmartre”).
  • It’s the highest geographical point in Paris (130,53m above sea-level). 
  • At the top of the hill stands the white the Basilica of the Sacred Heart ( = la Basilique du Sacré Coeur).
The Sacré Coeur at the top of Montmartre hill and the 222 steps

There are 37 stairways in Montmartre. The most famous  one has 222 steps (on the above photo).

Picturesque and touristic

Place du Tertre, the square of the artists, Montmartre

You will love Montmartre if you like the picturesque atmosphere, the old cobbled streets, the cafes and if you like to go back in time to the era when Renoir, Toulouse Lautrec and many other artists lived and worked there.

But unless you’re coming in the morning before midday and on a weekdays, you’ll find a neighbourhood with lot of visitors, especially around the Basilica and Place du Tertre. 

Le Lapin Agile, cabaret in Montmartre

Don’t forget : Montmartre is also known for being THE Parisian touristic place! So the most famous spots, such as Le Sacré Coeur and its esplanade, and the Place du Tertre are often quite crowded…

But if you move away a little from the top of the hill, you will find a more peaceful Montmartre and make some lovely discoveries !

From a rural area to a haven for artists

Le Moulin de la Galette, Montmartre
Picasso, in his twenties, Place Emile Goudeau, Montmartre, Paris

Montmartre has remained a rural area  and a quiet village, located outside the limits of Paris until 1860. with its numerous windmills  (between 15 and 30 windmills) that grounded the capital’s flour. 

After 1860 Montmartre then became a part of Paris and many artists started to come there, to live, to work, to gather, inspiring each other’s art . Renoir, Toulouse Lautrec, Picasso, Braque, Modigliani, Satie, Monet, just to name a few.

Montmartre' during the Belle Epoque

Rue de l'Abreuvoir. The Sacré Coeur in the background

Between 1860 and 1914 (during the Belle Epoque), thanks to its charm and affordable cost of living, Montmartre became the center of Paris’ artistic and intellectual life and the model of a free and bohemian existence.

A few hundreds of artists (painters, writers, poets, musicians…) from Berlioz to Picasso, then formed an artistic community. Most of all were poor, not known yet.

This is in Montmartre that Renoir painted « Le Bal du Moulin de la Galette »and in Montmartre that Picasso painted “Les demoiselles d’Avignon”.

La Maison Rose, café-restaurant, rue de l'Abreuvoir, Montmartre

 This is in Montmartre that Toulouse Lautrec painted most of his works of art. Not to mention Maurice Utrillo who spent his life in Montmartre and immortalized each part of it. And Van Gogh who saw his art changed from rather dark colors to a more colorful and light art

And many of these artists were regulars  to cabarets, ballrooms, cafés…

After WWI, most of them left Montmartre in favour of Montparnasse neighborhood.

Le Bal du Moulin de la Galette" ("Dance at the Moulin de la Galette"), 1876 by Auguste Renoir
Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre by Maurice Utrillo (1883 - 1955 ), definitely THE painter of Montmartre

Le Sacré Coeur basilica

The Sacré Coeur at the top of Montmartre hill and the 222 steps
The Sacré Coeur Basilica (Sacred heart Basilica) is located at the top of Montmartre hill, Although you can climb the 222 steps to get to it, there are a few other ways to climb to the top of the hill (among them, the funicular which run along these steps)!

Other spots in MOntmartre

Montmartre this is not the Basilica and the Place du Tertre only. There are endless places to discover and enjoy in Montmartre

The funicular of Montmartre
Some more steps in Montmartre, behind the Sacré Coeur
The garden of Montmartre museum, rue Cortot, the oldest house in Montmartre, 17thc
Stairs of the rue du Mont Cenis

My recommendations:

SCAMMERS IN MONTMARTRE:

Montmartre is one of the districts of Paris with a certain number of scammers. Not everywhere but in certain places of Montmartre (generally on the stairs facing the basilica and at the bottom of the square in front of the basilica).; 

So, be careful. They (they are generally 3 or 4 of them at the same time) will ask you to sign a petition.

Please, firmly say NO, do not stop and keep moving. DON’T SIGN their paper. otherwise they won’t stop annoying you, they’ll then ask for some money… etc. This is the only type of scam I came accross in this area.

But I’ve heard people mentioning other scams : the scammer pretend he found a gold ring on the ground and offers it to you for a small fee. Refue firmly and keep moving forward. Or the scammer approach you and tie a bracelet around your wrist and demand payment with persistenty. Don’t stop and keep moving forward…

La Place du Tertre, the square of the artists

Have your portrait done:

It can be a good idea (and a nice souvenir) to have your portrait or silhouette done at Place du Tertre, but mind the prices announced that can be irrational. Don’t hesitate to compare the artists’ offers  and don’t hesitate to refuse a non-reasonable price. 

MORE THAN ONE HOUR :If you can, spend more than one hour in Montmartre. There are many lovely streets and spots to enjoy other than the Place du Tertre, and the Basilica : la Maison rose, la rue de l’Abreuvoir, la rue des Abbesses and many more. 

NOT MORE THAN A DRINK at PLACE du TERTRE: I would recommend to avoid having a meal at Place du Tertre. Too touristic to be sure to get a quality meal… But if you’d like to have a break there, why not having a drink?

A MORNING on a WEEKDAY; If you can, choose to go to Montmartre on a morning and on a weekday, as the top of the hill often become crowded after 11am, especially during the high season. 

There are MANY WAYS TO GET TO THE TOP of Montmartre hill:

  • Climbing some of the 37 stairways located around Montmartre hill (some stairways are much shorter than others). The most famous and touristic  stairway is the one facing the Basilica (222 steps). But other stairways are really great. 
  • Taking the funicular. You can avoid the 222 steps stairs by taking the funicular (same price and tickets than the Paris’ Métro). In that case, take the metro and get off at Anvers metro station, then walk the rue Steinberk (btw: not the nice street…), then take the funicular 
  • Taking the Bus 40 from nearby Metro Pigalle to get to the top of the hill
  • Details (by the RATP which is the Paris’ Metro and bus company):link

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Some addresses

Le Café des Deux Moulins" = Le café in "Amélie" (the film), rue Lepic, Montmartre

 Le café des 2 moulins, 15 rue Lepic.

 If you loved the film “Amélie”, it’s a major spot in this film (located at the bottom of Montmartre hill, about 200 meters from the métro Blanche). Note that the atmosphere is often more touristic than local.

Le Relais de la Butte café, Place Emile Goudeau, Montmartre

 Le Relais de la Butte, Place Emile Goudeau

A nice terrasse to relax and breathe the atmosphere (about 200 meters from the Metro Abbesses). One of my favorite places. Out of the rush, a local vibe, next to the famous “Bateau Lavoir” where many artists once worked and meet

Le Consulat, a famous café in Montmartre, close to the top of the hill
  • Le Consulat, rue Norvins (about 300 meters from Place du Tertre) : an old institution of Montmartre
  • La Maison Rose : rue de l’Abreuvoir. Link
  • Le Lapin Agile: 22 rue des Saules. Link
  • Le Moulin Rouge (btw it has never been a real windmill but it’s one of the most famous cabaret in Paris. Expensive and very touristic but you might enjoy the place). A few steps from Métro Blanche. 
  • Dalida’s house: if you’re fan of Dalida (French singer): the house where she lived during several decades is located rue d’Orchamp (you’ll find a plaque)
Moulin Rouge, at the foot of Montmartre hill

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anne Jeanne at Ile Saint louis

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