Les Puces de Saint Ouen, the “world’s largest attic”

Location and name

Although it’s officially located in the suburb city called Saint Ouen, it’s generally considered as a Paris’ flea market

This flea market is either called Puces de Saint Ouen (named after Saint Ouen city, northern suburb of Paris) or Puces de Clignancourt (named after the Porte de Clignancourt area, on the Northern border of Paris).

People come to this village-flea market from all over the world.

Over 10 million visitors per year

The largest flea market in the world

14 distinct market areas

In Saint Ouen flea market, there are about 14 distinct market-areas and more than 1700 merchants displaying their items in shops and on stalls.

And one main street called : la rue des Rosiers which will help you find your way in this huge village-flea market. A good benchmark.

Saint Ouen : one of the 3 main Paris’ flea markets

The 3 main Paris flea markets are :

Vanves flea market,
Montreuil flea market
and St Ouen Flea market.

But Saint Ouen is by far the largest and most important. The largest flea market in the world too

You can find everything from antiques, records, books, antique jewellery… to clothing. From all eras and all countries. And for every budget.

In Saint Ouen flea market, you’ll find all type of “architectures” : covered huts, stalls, warehouses, garages, shops…

From antiques, records, books, antique jewellery… to clothing. From all eras and all countries. And for every budget.

Some History

It started with people collecting all sorts of things at night, through the garbage of Paris so as to sell them. But after a while, in the late 19th century, they were chased out of the city. Some of them went to the Northern border of Paris where they set up temporary stalls

Then these sales expanded and became more organized.

Finally the Marché de Saint Ouen itself, as it look now, started after WWI with sort of enclosed areas (some covered and some open-air) set up along one main street (la rue des Rosiers). It quickly became very popular.

It earned its name because of the flea that infested the furniture which was sold there.

“Midnight in Paris” in the Puces de Saint Ouen

A SPOT in MIDNIGHT in PARIS (Allée n°1 in Marché Biron, one of the Puces de Saint Ouen section) :

:This is where Gil is strolling, looking for some gem. The where he meets Gabrielle from who he buys an old record of Cole Porter

Examples of what you can find at Saint Ouen

Chandeliers with pendants, unusual decorative objects, plaster animals, decorative plates with a relief motif, copper braziers, old pharmacopoeias, small prints, book holders from the 1950s…,

curtains cupboards, cylinder tables, tin cupboards, furniture that had a life in a factory , signed pieces and stamped furniture, vintage jewels, vintage postcards, prints and magazines, silver cutlery, carved crystal glasses… and so many more..

In Saint Ouen flea market : more than 14 flea market-areas

The main ones are :

Le Marché VERNAISON : founded by Mr Vernaison. In this market, you’ll find all sorts of items : beads, fabric, paintings, antique, fashion, vintage books, toys, antique clothing

Le Marché DAUPHINE (140 rue des Rosiers)

Falbalas is one of the last places where you can find costumes from the 18th century to the 1970s and 1980s

Le Marché BIRON : Founded in 1925. A classic market. The shops and stalls are spread on both sides of a long alleyway . Maybe the most expensive where you’ll find lighting, antique furniture… from the 17th century until the 20th (70s/80s). It’s where Gil and Gabrielle meet in Midnight in Paris

Le Marché PAUL BERT , 96-110 Rue des Rosiers. There, you’ll find, 19th and 20th century furniture (including some furniture dating from the 50s and 60s), Vintage fashion shops and thrift stores. This market is owned by the Duke of Westminster – In this market :

Alain Fradin et Eric Fleuret : vintage XXe allée 5
David Netter : clothes from the 50s à 80s, Design-Vintage – allée 2 – Stall n° 32 du marché Paul-Bert.
Giraud Art Déco : : 91 Rue des Rosiers – stand specialist of the 20TH century. The shop offers “Vintage couture jewellery” (Chanel, Miriam Haskell, R.Sorrell…), furniture, Art Deco lighting, Cristal chandeliers, Murano lamps, furniture such as dressing tables, chests of drawers, mirrored chiffoniers!

Le Marché SERPETTE : … 110 rue des Rosiers. Probably the most prestigious and classic one (with Biron)

Le Monde du Voyage : luxury items : Hermès items (including the iconic scarves “Carré Hermès”, Chanel, Vuitton suitcases… – Stand 15 Allée 3
Artémise et Cunégonde: “Haute Couture”. Designer and non-designer clothes. Alley 1 Stands 28 and 29 of the Serpette market.

Le Marché JULES VALLES :

“Sarah” you’ll find old lingerie and clothes from another era
Alexis T. : créateur de mode situé au 58 rue Jules Vallès (Vintage fashion shops and thrift stores ; Chez Laeticia. A wealth of Vuitton trunks.

My recommandations and thoughts

Beware of pickpockets, more especially on your way from Clignancourt metro stop to the market ..; But in the Saint Ouen market too. Keep your bags closed and your belongings safe

If possible choose a visit in the morning (less crowded)

Use the rue des Rosiers to find your way and not get lost. It’s a good benchmark

Remember what one stall holder said : “You have to know how to search, it’s the customer who makes the find”.

Don’t hesitate to negociate the prices

Make sure to have cash with you (best when you negociate and also the vendors don’t all accept credit card)

Visit the official website of the Puces de Saint Ouen

Consider visiting the Marché de Vanves too. A different atmosphere and an interesting flea market too

I generally choose Garibaldi metro stop (line 13) even if the walk is a bit longer and the way not straight at all (a bit more complicated). You’ll need to use a map application on your phone ! For me it’s a way to avoid the walking itinerary from Clignancourt Metro stop to the Flea market, which I don’t really like. You might feel the same…

How to get there ?

Metro : Accessible with a regular metro ticket (zone 1)

First option : Metro stop Porte de Clignancourt (Line 4) and follow the signs. It’s about a 10 minutes walk (walk north) after the Périphérique ( =the circle road which goes all around Paris). I must admit, not the nicest and most attractive walk and a walk during which it’s better mind your bags… Until you arrive at the Puces de Saint Ouen themselves

Second option : (so as to avoid the not very pleasant path between Clignancourt metro stop and the flea market itself). Metro stop Garibaldi (line 13). Then about 15 minutes walk. This is generally the option I choose

…or … : a cab !! – ask for the destination : “rue des Rosiers au Marché aux Puces de Saint Ouen “ (Mind !…. as there is also a “rue des Rosiers” in Paris 4, in Le Marais neighborhood)

Last but not least ! Cafés and restaurants at Saint Ouen Flea Market

You’ll find numerous cafés and restaurants. But you probably won’t find high gastronomy there !

Among the most famous places :

Louisette : by far, this is THE institution of Saint Ouen flea market…. the most outdated and inimitable… (!!), the kitschest …. an old renowned place for its outdated atmosphere with multicoloured garlands and repertoire of French songs, accordion . But don’t expect a refine meal neither the chicest welcome… (!) but I’ve heard that Sharon Stone loves it – Address : Marché Vernaison. 30, avenue Michelet.
La crème – Coffee and Sweet treats : for a drink, maybe a pastry (!?) or a meal. A new place in the Puces de Saint Ouen – Marché Paul Bert 96 / 110 rue des Rosiers allée 6 stand 81 bis
Ma Cocotte : a “bobo” ( = bohemian-bourgeois) and hype type of restaurant ! Quite recent with a modern setting . Chic but still affordable. . Located at the entrance of the Marché Paul Bert of the Puces de Saint Ouen; Designed by Philippe Starck renowned French architecte. 106 Rue des Rosiers
Le Biron : 85, rue des Rosiers
Le café Paul Bert : The hotspot for all who are regular to the Puces de Saint Ouen (including the stall holders). The place « where to be» (!). Address : 20, rue Paul-Bert.
«Le Roi du Café » its old setting and furniture
Le Picolo : probably the oldest restaurant of the Puces de Saint Ouen. Traditionnal meals – 58 rue Jules Vallès