The Faubourg Saint-Antoine: a mix of the remains of an old world and of new trends
My “Faubourg Saint Antoine key words” :
craftsmen, courtyards, cobblestone, old Paris, workers, furniture, cabinet makers, workshops, marquetry, hidden passages, artists, working class area, designers, furniture, 19th century, craft industry, Bastille,
*“Faubourg” means that this area has been for a long time outside of Paris. The Faubourg St Antoine is part of Paris since the end of the 18th century (1795).
In the middle of the Faubourg Saint Antoine neighborhood: the rue du Faubourg Saint Antoine, limit between the 11th and the 12th arrondissement of Paris.
“Faubourg’ means that it’s long been located outside of Paris.
Location
The Faubourg Saint Antoine neighborhood, is located on the right bank of Paris and is located in both the 11th and the 12th arrondissements of Paris, on a few steps away from Place de la Bastille (on the eastern direction).
One of the main street, rue du Faubourg Saint Antoine, is one of the oldest street of Paris.
Still old courtyards but a neighborhood that has changed
You will like le Faubourg Saint Antoine if…
If you enjoy discovering old hidden cobblestone courtyards and passages (cour Damoye, Passage du Bel Air, Cour Lhomme, Passage du Chantier to name a few)
If you’d like to discover one of the area of Paris that has changes the most these one or two last decades
Note that most of these old courtyards can be seen but still private places and most of them accessible only on weekdays.
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The courtyards and passages
A few decades ago, the courtyards used to house workshops.
Nowadays, a few artisan’s workshops can still be found in hidden passages and courtyards,
Other courtyards and passages have been renovated and occupied by housing or various activities (shops, cafés, art businesses).
Historically, a neighborhood of craftsmen
From the 12th century, le Faubourg Saint antoine has been an important area of trade and craft industry, a land of a workshop tradition.
From the 17th century, there were some great cabinet-makers who furnished the aristocratic palaces, such as André Boulle supplier to the court of King Louis XIV (1638-1715).
Ìn the 18th century, there were more than 200 workshops in activity in this area : carpenters, cabinet makers, upholsterers, chair caners, furniture making artisans…
Time has changed, but nowadays, though much less workshops, the furniture business is still going on and the neighborhood still keeps its working-class character.
Many new inhabitants belong to the world of art (contemporary designers and artists)
My recommendations:
Strolling the Faubourg Saint Antoine is strolling off the touristic track ! It’s the opportunity to stumble across some unexpected places and in some place get a feel of what the 19th century could have been in this area.
But as this neighborhood has changed during these recent decades, you’ll probably discover nice trendy little shops (for instance rue de Charonne)
- Avoid the weekends. This is when more passages or courtyards are closed.
- Some of the courtyards are private locations: so you can’t be sure that you’ll manage to get in.
- Most of the courtyards and passages are cobbled : walking is not always confortable …(!)
Some addresses
- Cour Damoye and Lhomme passage (probably one of the most charming cobblestone places (Cour Damoye starts at Place de la Bastille)
- Some other passages and courtyards : Bel Air Courtyard, Passage du Chantier, Passage du Cheval Blanc, and a few others that you’ll probably discover with the support of a map !
- La rue de Lappe, quite close to Place de la Bastille. If you like very lively and young vibe ! Often groups of young having a drink in this street standing on the pavement. Even more at night. It’s a very old street opened in 1652 and it has long been a place for entertainment. Le Balajo is an iconic place of Parisian nightlife since 1936
The rue de Charonne, a street that I recommend : a quiet street, pleasant to walk.
And why not enjoying a break at “Le Pain Quotidien” café restaurant ? (I know it’s a chain and I generally don’t enjoy chains): a pleasant and relaxing setting, for a meal, a dessert or a drink (Suitable meals for vegetarians). This is what I often do when I am around). Their site
- In case you’re around on a weekend (which as I mentioned it above, is not the best time to discover the courtyards of the Faubourg Saint Antoine !), you can visit the nearby “Marché d’Aligre” (Aligre market). Saturday 9am-1pm 3.30pm-7.30pm ; Sunday 9am-1pm 9am-1.30pm. MARCHE d’ALIGRE (an outdoor + a covered market): rue d’Aligre and place d’Aligre, Paris 12th arrondissement
- A bit more further, there is the “COULEE VERTE René Dumont” which offers a few kilometers quiet stroll across the 12th arrondissement with a lot of greenery
