WHO AM I ? my BIO
Le Marais : from swamp to royal neighborhood to today’s trendy and historic area.
My Le Marais key words :
old mansions, history, culture, lively, quiet, Place des Vosges, museums, Victor Hugo, shops, young people, trendy, touristic, swamp ( = Marais), small gardens
Location
Le Marais includes parts of the 3rd and 4th arrondissements of Paris, and is located on the right bank of the Seine.
But the Marais neighborhood has no official administrative borders.
No official borders, but its perimeter is usually defined as stretching between the Hôtel de Ville ( = Paris City Hall), Place de la Bastille and Place de la République, with the Seine as its southern limit.
The map on the right shows two different ways the Marais is sometimes defined.
You'll like Le Marais, if....
You will like Le Marais, if you love historic buildings, architecture, cafés and shops,
if you enjoy a trendy, youthful vibe. This neighborhood is a very lively and very touristy in its central area, which contrasts with much quiter streets just around the corner.
It’s also centrally located
But keep in mind: in some streets, like Rue des Francs Bourgeois, or Rue de la Verrerie for instance, it gets so crowded on weekends that you just have to walk in single file… (During the high season, the touristic density is particularly high).
But if you move a few steps away, you’ll still find quiet, beautiful streets;
Place des Vosges, an emblematic spot in Le Marais
The first place that comes to mind when thinkiing of Le Marais is often Place des Vosges.
The oldest square in Paris (17th century) and remarkable for its unique architecture and long history.
At Place des Vosges, among otherthings, you’ll find :
- Carette tearoom-restaurant-pastry shop. Often crowded. Best time to go : before 11am and on a weekday. Delicious and great quality guaranteed !
- Café Hugo
- Ma Bourgogne restaurant
- Victor Hugo’s house : (free admission, except during temporary exhibitions)
- And…don’t miss : the “almost hidden”small corridor starting in the southwest corner of the square that leads to the wonderful garden-courtyard of the old mansion “Hôtel de Sully”
originally a swamp
LE MARAIS: For shopping addicts
Le Marais has changed a lot since the 80s: different vibe, different atmosphere…
For about 15 years now, alongside history and architecture lovers, the neighborhood has also attracted shopping enthusiasts.
Here are some of the main streets for shopping :
– Rue des Francs Bourgeois : lots of shops
– Rue Vieille du Temple : shops of all kind and beautiful doors
– Rue des Rosiers: a street marked by Jewish heritage, with significant immigration from the late 19th century to early 20th centuries.
But sometimes the streets get so crowded, especially on weekend, that you end up walking in single file….Especially Rue des Francs Bourgeois.
So if you’re looking for a peaceful weekend stroll, this might not be the best place!
But as soon as you move away from the busier streets, you’ll find quiet and charming ones.
(During high season, Le Marais is particularly packed with tourists.)
LE MARAIS: For architecture, History and museums lovers
Le Marais is very well preserved architecturally. It is home to some of the oldest buildings in Paris. Some of them are now museums and can be visited. Here are a few:
Carnavalet museum : the museum of the history of Paris. Free admission. (There is also a café-restaurant inside). Corner rue de Sévigné/rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75003 Paris
Musée Cognacq-Jay: housed in the Hôtel de Donon : a collection of 18th-century art built up by Mr and Mrs Cognacq Jay (founders of La Samaritaine department store). 8 Rue Elzevir, 75003 Paris
Musée Soubise – Archives Nationales, housed in the Hôtel de Soubise et de Rohan.
Picasso museum, housed in the beautiful Hotel Salé. Home to one of the most important collections of Pablo Picasso’ works.
Victor Hugo’s House, Home of Victor Hugo lived for 16 years. 6, Place des Vosges (Open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm, last admissions at 5:40pm). Free admission
Musée de la chasse et de la nature, housed in a 17th century building, 62, rue des Archives, Paris 3
Maison Européenne de la photographie, Hôtel Hénault de Cantobre, 82-84 Rue François Miron
The BHV Marais: a department store in le marais
It’s hard to talk about Le Marais, without mentioning BHV Marais!
One of the biggest department stores in Paris, it’s located on the southwestern edge of Le Marais.
It’s a nice place to wander : fashion, home decor, DIY (although less than a few decades ago), furniture, jewels and more. The store has changed a lot since in the past 10 years. It’s now more trendy and fashionable. Some of us miss the way it used to be, though !
BHV Marais, 52 rue de Rivoli, 75004 Paris. Monday to Saturday 9.30am to 8pm Sunday 11am to 7.30pm
My recommendations:
– Get ready for some lovely strolls in Le Marais ! Its architecture is very well preserved and it’s perfect for walking (Especially since new 2025 city measures limit vehicles access in the first four arrondissements).
– But note: it’s a very touristy area. One or the top two neighborhoods most often mentioned by visitors (along with Montmartre). This is thanks to its rich history, architecture and lively vibe, but also due to heavy communication on social media.
Some addresses
There are a plethora of museums, shops and cafés in Le Marais. Below a few cafés I like :
– Carette: 25 Place des Vosges. Great pastries and a wonderful place to enjoy Le Marais and the Place des Vosges. But it’s very popular, so best to go before 11 am/or on a weekday. (Tip: you don’t need to have a full meal. I often just enjy a pastry or a drink)
– “Le Bar du Marché” : 53 rue vieille du Temple. A charming little café. Why not stop by early morning (opens at 8am) for a more local feel?! Then stroll around the peaceful streets nearby (rue Guillemite or rue Aubriot for instance) and take a look at the lovely façade of Notre-Dame-des-Blancs-Manteaux, just steps away. (In 2025 the opening time of this café is 8am)
– Café Hugo : 22 Place des Vosges (a nice alternative to Carette is there is no room at Carette!).
– “La Petite Place” café : 2 place de Thorigny. A nice spot to enjoy a drink, just a few steps from the Picasso museum.
– “Au coeur du Marais” café : 61 rue des Francs Bourgeois. A small and simple café, just across from the Musée Soubise – Archives nationales, Perfect for a drink and a break.
– The List of the Paris’ museums that offer a free admission
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