Le Marais neighborhood

Le Marais : a marsh then a Royal neighborhood to the actual trendy neighborhood, rich in History

My Le Marais key words :

old mansions, History, culture, lively, quiet, Place des Vosges, museums, Victor Hugo, shops, young people, trendy, touristic, swamp ( = Marais), small gardens

Location

Le Marais is composed of a part of the 4th arrondissement and of a part of the 3d arrondissement of Paris, and is located on the right bank of the river Seine.

But the Marais neighborhood has no administrative limits.

No administrative limits, but its perimeter is generally defined as extending between l’Hôtel de Ville ( = Paris City Hall), Place de la Bastille and Place de la République, and to the south, it is delimited by the Seine.

The map on the right shows you two of the different ways in which the Marais is sometimes defined.

You'll like Le Marais, if....

You will like Le Marais, if you love historic buildings, architecture, cafés and shops,

if you like trendy, young vibes, This is a very lively and very touristic neighbourhood (center of Le Marais), which contrasts with other much more peaceful streets surrounding the center of this neighborhood

And it’s a central neighborhood

In some streets, like Rue des Francs Bourgeois, or rue de la Verrerie for instance, it’s so busy that on weekend days, you just have to walk in line… (During the high season, the touristic occupation rate is particularly high).

But if you move a bit further you’ll still find very beautiful and peaceful streets;

Place des Vosges, an emblematic spot in Le Marais

The first place one thinks of, when it comes to Le Marais is most often, the Place des Vosges.

The oldest square in Paris (17th century) and remarkable for its unique architecture and its long history.

Place des Vosges, among other places, you’ll find :

Carette tearoom-restaurant-pastry shop. Often crowded. Best time to come : before 11am and on a weekday. Delice and quality guaranteed !
Café Hugo
Ma Bourgogne restaurant
La Maison de Victor Hugo : free admission (except when there is a temporary exhibition
And…don’t miss : the “almost hidden”small corridor starting at the South-West corner of the square that leads to the wonderful garden-courtyard of the old mansion “Hôtel de Sully”

originally a swamp /// history

Originally a swamp (Marais means “marsh”), Le Marais was built in the 16th and 17th centuries.

It’s now one of the most fashionable neighborhoods in Paris.

It has long been where the largest Jewish community in Europe lived.

And up to the 2000s, le Marais has long been a hotspot of the gay culture and community. Today, although there are a less important number of them, there are still some “gay-friendly” spots

For shopping addicts

Since the 80s; Le Marais has changed a lot since the 80s… different vibes, different atmosphere…Since about 15 years ago, beside a neighborhood for the History and the architecture lovers, le Marais has become an area for shopping addicts !

Here are some of the streets where most people go and where you’ll find lots of shops :

– Rue des Francs Bourgeois : many shops

– Rue Vieille du Temple : shops of all sorts and nice doors

– Rue des Rosiers: a street marked by the presence of the Jewish community (important immigration from the late 19th century to the early 20thc)

But sometimes there are so many people in the streets, especially on weekend, that you have to walk in single file….Especially rue des Francs Bourgeois :

So if you like to stroll peacefully on a weekend, this is not the best place to go to ! But once you get away from these sometimes “too busy” streets, you’ll find quiet and charming streets

(During the high season, the touristic occupation rate in Le Marais is particularly high.)

For architecture, History and museums lovers

Le Marais is very well architecturally preserved.It is home to some of the oldest buildings in Paris. Some of them are now museums and can be visited. Here are some of them :

Carnavalet museum : the museum of the History of Paris. Free admission. (in the place: a café restaurant). Corner rue de Sévigné/rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75003 Paris

Musée Cognacq-Jay: housed in the Hôtel de Donon : a collection of 18th-century art built up by Mr and Mrs Cognacq Jay (founders of La Samaritaine department store). 8 Rue Elzevir, 75003 Paris

Musée Soubise – Archives Nationales, housed in the Hôtel de Soubise et de Rohan.

Picasso museum, housed in the beautiful Hotel Salé: most important collections of Pablo Picasso’ works.

Victor Hugo’s House, Home of Victor Hugo during 16 years. 6, Place des Vosges (Tuesdays to Sundays between 10 am and 6 pm, last admissions at 5:40pm). Free admission

Musée de la chasse et de la nature, housed in a 17th century building, 62, rue des Archives, Paris 3

Maison Européenne de la photographie, Hôtel Hénault de Cantobre, 82-84 Rue François Miron

The BHV Marais department store

When it comes to Le Marais, it’s difficult not to mention the BHV Marais department store !

One of the largest department stores in Paris, located on the edge of Le Marais (South-Western part of it)

A nice place to wander : clothes, home decoration, DIY (although much less than a few decades ago), furniture, jewels and many more. A store that has changed le lot since about 10 years ago. Much more fashionable and trendy. However, some of us regret what the BHV used to be !

BHV Marais, 52 rue de Rivoli, 75004 Paris. Monday to Sat 9.30am to 8pm Sunday 11am to 7.30pm

My recommendations:

– Get ready for nice strolls in Le Marais ! Le Marais’ architecture is very well preserved and it’s a neighborhood which is a must for pedestrians (Even more considering the last measures taken by the City in 2025, that limits the access to most vehicles in the 4 first arrondissements of Paris)

– But it’s a very touristic neighborhood. one or the 2 most often mentioned as their favorites by visitors (beside Montmartre); Due to the richness of its history, architecture and to the lively aspect of it. But also due to an over communication on social media.

So if you don’t like crowds, it’s best either to avoid the most popular places during the weekends. And during the high season, best to avoid the afternoons even during the weekdays ! Honestly, I do my best to not go to this neighborhood on weekends. I really don’t like walking in a line !!

Some addresses

There are a plethora of museums, shops and cafés in Le Marais. Below a few cafés I like :

– Carette: 25 Place des Vosges. great pastries and a wonderful place to enjoy Le Marais and the Place des Vosges. But victim of its success, there are often too many people. So best to choose a morning before 11 and/or a weekday. Btw : you don’t have to have a meal there. You can just enjoy a pastry and/or a drink. This is what I often do.

– “Le Bar du Marché” : 53 rue vieille du Temple. A lovely small café. Why not enjoy this café on an early morning (it opens at 8am) for a more local vibe ?! And then walk the nice quiet streets around (rue Guillemite, rue Aubriot just to name a few) and the beautiful facade of Notre Dame des Blancs Manteaux, located a few steps from the Bar du Marché ? (In 2025 the opening time of this café is 8am)

– Café Hugo : 22 Place des Vosges (a nice alternative to Carette is there is no see at Carette !).

– “La Petite Place” café : 2 place de Thorigny. A nice location, a bit off the beaten track (but a few steps from Picasso museum), to enjoy a drink.

– “Au coeur du Marais” café : 61 rue des Francs Bourgeois. A small nice and simple café, to enjoy a drink (opposite to the Musée Soubise – Archives Nationales)

– The List of the Paris’ museums that offer a free admission