Ann Jeanne in Paris

a Friend in Paris

4Jul

Berthe Morisot, a woman in a man’s world

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: Non classé People
1 Comment
Berthe Morisot

My recent reading (“Berthe Morisot” by Dominique Bona) as well as the new exhibition at the Musée d’Orsay  (in english : Click here) dedicated to the artist,  led me to write this article  This exhibition is a unique opportunity to discover or rediscover  the work of this amazing artist, one of the greatest French impressionist painter. I hope my article will make you feel like visiting this exhibition and discovering more about the life and work of this amazing artist ! To book you ticket : CLICK HERE

Affiche exposition - Musée Orsay

Through my recent reading  ‘Berthe Morisot“  (Dominique Bona, French author), I discovered a woman whose life is as fascinating as her painting : she defought the conventions to live her life and art on her way,  with an unfailing determination,  at a time when women did not have careers outside of their home and marriage.Her art is fascinating : she is a key figure in the founding of Impressionism. She broke the rules of realism, in the way she painted

Certainly one of the three greatest female impressionist painters (with Marie Bracquemond and Mary Cassat). She was respected and admired by her counterparts and friends Monet, Manet, Pissaro, Renoir, Degas… But unfortunately her work has been undervalued for too long…  She was a women, and that might explain it all.

Lady at her Toilette, 1875 The Art Institute of Chicago

Lady at her Toilette, by Berthe Morisot – 1875 The Art Institute of Chicago

The Musée d’Orsay houses today one of the most important collections of Impressionist paintings in the world. My article about the Musée d’Orsay : Click here

Here is a list of some of the most famous impressionist painters : Frédéric Bazille, Gustave Caillebotte, Mary Cassat, Paul Cézanne, Edgar Degas, Edouard Manet, Claude Monet, Berthe Morisot, Camille Pissarro, Pieerre Auguste Renoir, Alfred Sisley, Marie Bracquemond… Just to name a few.

 Exhibition Berthe Morisot at the Musée d’Orsay :

from the 18th of June to the 22d of Septembre 2019

The Musée d’Orsay is paying tribute to the talent of one of this great French artist. The first time the Musée d’Orsay dedicates an exhibition to Berthe Morisot’s work. And it’s the first retrospective exhibition dedicated to this artist since the 1941 exhibition at the Orangerie.

 Who is Berthe Morisot  ?

‘I do not think any man would ever treat a woman as his equal, and it is all I ask because I know my worth.’ Berthe Morisot – 1890 (“Je ne crois pas qu’il y ait jamais eu un homme traitant une femme d’égale à égal, et c’est tout ce que j’aurais demandé. Car je sais que je les vaux.” Berthe Morisot, 1890)

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Berthe Morisot

She is one of the major figure of the Impressionism. She was born in 1841. She died at age 54 in 1895.

She was a member of the Parisian avant-garde impressionist movement. Her friends were Manet, Monet, Degas, Renoir, Fantin Latour, or Pissaro. She exhibited with them regularly.  She frequented French writers too : Stéphane Mallarmé, Zola, Baudelaire, Paul Valery… Her work remained popular throughout her life. But her true value was never fully recognized by the public and the institutions. Her marriage license and her death certificat listed her as “without profession” …

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Girl with Greyhound – Berthe Morisot -1893 (the model is Julie, Berthe Morisot’s daughter)

Independent and determined :

Berthe Morisot

Berthe Morisot

I will achieve it only [being an artist] by perseverance, and by openly asserting my determination to emancipate myself.”  – Berthe Morisot – 1871       («Je n’obtiendrai (mon indépendance) qu’à force de persévérance et en manifestant très ouvertement l’intention de m’émanciper»)

As a woman and as a painter : She was one of the most influential female Impressionist painters. One of the rare woman to make the painting her profession at a time when women couldn’t expect to have careers outside of marriage.She defought social norms, always refused an academic art. She was determined to be an artist as well as a wife and mother. She fought against the preconceptions of women’s roles at a time when women were not allowed to join the official art institutions.

After Luncheon, 1881

After Luncheon – by Berthe Morisot – 1881

As a model : Posing for Manet, was already an unconventional choice : Manet was a controversial artist for his paintings “Le Déjeuner sur l’herbe” (exhibited in the Salon in 1863) and “Olympia” (exhibited in 1865) 

Oympia - Edouard Manet - 1865

Olympia – Edouard Manet – 1865 (The model : Victorine Meurent)

Berthe Morisot and Edouard Manet :

A Model subject and a muse for Manet (1832 – 1883) :

Berthe Morisot posed for Manet. Between 1868 and 1874, Edouard Manet painted her twelve times, more than any other woman. It’s Henri Fantin Latour who introduced her in 1868 to Edouard Manet. Berthe Morisot and Edouard Manet became close friends. He was a great admirer of her work and supported her although, and they both influenced each other art

A contemporary wrote : “When [Manet] paints Victorine, he paints her as a beautiful object; when he paints Berthe, he paints her with love and tenderness.”

The first time she posed for Manet was for “the Balcony”. But the most famous painting of Berthe Morisot by Edouard Manet is probably “Berthe Morisot with a bouquet of violets” where she is wearing a black dress

And “Le Repos”, could look like a declaration of love for his model. At least an emblematic portrait of Berthe Morisot by Manet 

Berthe Morisot - The rest - Portrait of Berthe Morisot - E Manet - 1870

Berthe Morisot – The rest – by E Manet – 1870

Were Edouard Manet and Berthe Morisot in love ?

Though, through the letters she wrote,  we know that she cared deeply for Manet, nobody really knows if they both were in love.

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However, Manet was a married man when they met, and Edouard Manet was also known as having numerous affairs with many women outside of his marriage.

In 1874, at age 33, she married Manet’s younger brother Eugène who was also a painter. Her husband supported Berthe Morisot’ s carrier and provided her with social and financial stability. In 1878, they had a child, Julie.

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Eugene Manet and His Daughter at Bougival – by Berthe Morisot – 1881

She and her daughter were painted by Auguste Renoir too :

Her painting :

“Real painters understand with the brush” – Berthe Morisot

She started as a copyist at Le Louvre and studied painting extensively during this period. She soon refused the academic training she was receiving. Her work was first exhibited in 1864 at the Salon de Paris, a prestigious art show. She was then 23.

On the Balcony, 1872, New York - Dame et enfant sur la terrasse, Berthe Morisot, 1872

On the Balcony by Berthe Morisot, 1872

In 1872, she sold 22 paintings to a private dealer. It was the start of the career as an established artist.

She painted outdoor scenes, still-life scenes,  everyday life activities and portraits. Mostly in Paris and around, but occasionaly in England and Italy too. Always with a unconventional approach to her art, with delicacy

 She was renowned for her creativity, and her experiments with the concept of finished an unfinished in her paintings, her way to interpret traditional subjects in a modern way, her capacity to reveal with delicacy the complexity of life and human beings, and her ability to capture the movement, the light, the feelings.

‘Berthe Morisot’s uniqueness was to “live” her painting, and to paint her life’ – Paul Valery (French writer and one of her friends)

Among her most famous works : the Cradle (1872) where she shows her sister Edma contemplating her sleeping daughter and “Interior” (1872)

Le Berceau (The Cradle), 1872, Musée d'Orsay

Le Berceau (The Cradle), by Berthe Morisot 1872, Musée d’Orsay

Her paintings are spread in numerous museums and private collections all over the world. In Paris, mainly at the Musée d’Orsay and the Musée Marmottan Monet

Her childhood and education :

Born in 1841 in a wealthy bourgeois family in Bourges (center of France). She had 2 older sisters Yves (although Yves is a French male first name) and Edma, and also a younger brother, Tiburce. Her family moved to Paris in 1852. She lived in Paris for the rest of her life.

The Artists' Daughter Julie With Her Nanny, c.1884, Minneapolis Institute of Art

The Artists’ Daughter Julie With Her Nanny, c.1884, Minneapolis Institute of Art

Berthe and her sisters received an artistic education (music and painting lessons) and were supported by their family. Both Berthe and her sister Edma were talented artists. Edma gave up after getting married and Berthe continued working as a painter.  

Séparation 3

Séparation 3

 AJIP private walking tours

Coming to Paris soon ? Book your private tour with AJIP. 02022019-IMG_950902022019-IMG_9509

A way to get to get closer to an authentic Paris and to learn more than the touristic side of the city: Don’t hesitate to contact me : here

The Latin Quarter, Montmartre village, Saint Germain des Prés, The atmospheric 19th century tour,  Montparnasse… Each walk can be personalized according to your wishes and interests. Each walk, includes a break with a drink (included in the fees). AJIP private tours – Here25052017-IMG_7845

25052017-IMG_7845

  • AJIP private tours – Here
  • About the booking and pricing: Here 

MORE PHOTOS OF BERTHE MORISOT’s PAINTINGS at the BOTTOM OF THIS PAGE

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Séparation 3

Other informations about Berthe Morisot exhibition at the Musée d’Orsay

Readings :

Some of the paintings of the permanent collection (among the numerous Berthe Morisot’s paintings spread all over the world in private collections and museums). In Paris, mainly at the Musée d’Orsay and the Musée Marmottan Monet

  • at the Musée d’Orsay : In the permanent collection
    • Portrait de Madame Pontillon, 1871,
    • Le Berceau (The Cradle) , 1872, 
    • Jeune femme au bal encore intitulé Jeune femme en toilette de bal, 1876,
    • Jeune femme en toilette de bal (Young Woman in Evening Dress), 1879

(of course the exhibition from the 19 June 2019 to the 22 Septembre 2019 gathers many more Berthe Morisot ‘s works of art)

  • at the Musée Marmottan-Monet,  – 2, rue Louis-Boilly, Paris 16 –Metro stop : La Muette or Ranelagh (line 9)
    • “Au bal” ou Jeune fille au bal, 1875,  
    • Eugène Manet on the Isle of Wight 1875, 
  • at the National museum of Stockolm
    • Dans le jardin (Dames cueillant des fleurs), 1879
  • at the National Gallery of London
    • Le Lac du Bois de Boulogne (Jour d’été), 1879,
  • at the Art Institute of Chicago :
    • Femme et enfant au balcon, 1871–72, 
    • Femme à sa toilette , 1875–1880
    • Jeune fille de dos à sa toilette, encore intitulé Femme à sa toilette 1879, oil on canvas, 6
    • Autoportrait, 1885, pastel on paper, 47.5 × 37.5 cm,
    • La Forêt de Compiègne, 1885, oil on canvas,
    • Le Bain (Jeune file se coiffant), 1885–1886,

My tips :

  • Book you ticket in advance : Though you won’t be able to avoid waiting in line (because of the safety check) I highly recommend you to book you ticket in advance. Then go directly to the Entrance C dedicated to those who have already got a ticket. 
  • Best days and times : 
    • Wednesday, Thursday and Friday at the opening time (9.30am. Best being there around 9/9.15am)
    • Thursday at the opening night. I suggest that you’d be there around 7pm or later. (Thursday closing time at 9.45pm)
    • Avoid if possible the weekends.And the Monday is the closing day.
  • Transportation : I favor Solferino metro stop rather than Musée d’Orsay metro stop. From Solferino metro stop, about 5 minutes walk but the taking the metro (rather than the RER) is more pleasant so as the exit. And the walk to the Museum is nice too. 

Practical details : 

  • Address : Musée d’Orsay , 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur – Paris 7 . Metro and RER : Solferino metro stop or RER C Musée d’Orsay metro stop  – 
  • Opening hours :
    • Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 9.30am to 6 pm
    • Thursday : from 9.30am to 9.45pm
  • Closed on Mondays, the 1st January, 1st of May and 25th of December
  • Full price : 15 euros

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MORE PHOTOS OF BERTHE MORISOT’s PAINTINGS

Eugene Manet with his Daughter in the Garden,1883

Eugene Manet with his Daughter in the Garden,1883

Berthe Morisot Julie Manet with a budgie - 1890

Berthe Morisot Julie Manet with a budgie – 1890

Child among the Hollyhocks, 1881, Wallraf-Richartz Museum

Child among the Hollyhocks, 1881, Wallraf-Richartz Museum

MMT156737 Self Portrait, 1885 (oil on canvas) by Morisot, Berthe (1841-95) oil on canvas 61x50 Musee Marmottan, Paris, France French, out of copyright

Self Portrait, 1885 by Berthe Morisot, 1885 – Musee Marmottan, Paris, 

The Artists' Daughter Julie With Her Nanny, c.1884, Minneapolis Institute of Art

The Artists’ Daughter Julie With Her Nanny, c.1884, Minneapolis Institute of Art

 

“Young Girl with Basket” 1892 by Berthe Morisot

“Young Girl with Basket” 1892 by Berthe Morisot

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20Apr

“Your story with” Notre Dame cathedral

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: Non classé Places You and Paris
4 Comments
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More than 40 stories … !

Notre Dame, and St. Michael bridge, ca. 1890

Notre Dame, and St. Michael bridge, ca. 1890

but….

“Your story”, rather than “Your stories”…. because each of these stories is so personal, so intimate…  “Story” rather than “memories”, because I feel your words reflect much more than memories. You are really telling us YOUR STORY with NOTRE DAME 

Please…. read them all ! You’ll be amazed !07042019-HMKB5804

And… Thank you for sharing your story with us, and for letting me publish it on my website !

(at the bottom of this page : a few words about  “The Hunchback  of Notre Dame”  the  novel which has played a major role in the preservation of  Notre Dame)

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First visit to Paris, first day activity, heard mass at Notre Dame as thanksgiving . And everything was just great the whole trip 😘! The mass was in French which I didn’t understand, but I just sort of extrapolated – Léa C.

The first impression for me when I first saw her was incredible absolutely stunning and so beautiful I was mesmerized by her beauty and I got chills as I saw her for the very first time – Clara B.

One chilly, bright Sunday morning in a February gone by, I attended a Gregorian Chant mass in Notre Dame.
From the usher, I took the leaflet printed in French that I couldn’t read and found a seat among the regular worshipers and tourists alike. Instead of fidgeting like I did through mass as a child, I closed my eyes for a moment, centered myself and reached out, one by one, to each of my senses…
I listened to the melodic, calming chanting reverberate throughout the cathedral…my gaze wandered from the soaring arches to the dim chandeliers to the magnificent stained glass windows that were lit by the bright morning outside…the heavy scent of incense hung in the air, making my nose itch for release…I felt the cold emanating from the stone floor and wondered what parishioners sat on during services hundreds of years ago. I did not taste the communion as I felt that it was inappropriate for me to partake, being the seriously lapsed Catholic I am.
When it was over, I emerged, blinking into the blue-skied sunlight feeling both energized and peaceful. I carried the experience with me throughout that relaxed, quite Sunday in Paris. – The Armchair Parisian

On December 31, 2018 our family enjoyed an amazing New Year’s Eve dinner in Paris. We finished just in time to run to the Seine to ring in 2019 with the bells of Notre Dame. Lisa M

I will never forget the feelings of awe and peace when I first entered Notre Dame. I also loved Joan of Arc’s station; she is one of my heroes and I was pleasantly surprised to see it and to stand in her “presence.” Helen P.

The Quai Saint-Michel and Notre-Dame, a painting by Maximilien Luce, 1901

The Quai Saint-Michel and Notre-Dame, a painting by Maximilien Luce, 1901

I was twenty years old and climbed around the gargoyles!
I am happy to learn they had been removed due to the renovations and are safe now! – Mary Kay K.

I was 5 the first time I walked through those doors into that immense mysterious dark space and saw the light filtering through those stained glass windows as my eyes adjusted. I spent my 7th birthday there with my parents and sister — at my request. Heard Pierre Cochereau play the glorious pipe organ. I had photos, clippings, reference books and models of the cathedral in my room as a kid. Over the years my love and fascination with the cathedral, its history, its architecture and engineering has only grown. At sixty I love it still with that childlike wonder. Like a sword through my heart to watch this horrible catastrophe play out this week. Bittersweet but also comforting to know I was sharing this grief and love with so many others. I’ve always considered Notre Dame my favorite spot on the planet since I was five. Love and a hug to all who are heartbroken and touched by what this great jewel of civilization has meant to us. So thrilled to see the outpouring of love, money and support for the restoration. – Denis de B.

I went to look at Notre Dame because people told me to – it was a tourist spot. I did not expect that I would feel the way I did. It absolutely took my breath away. I visited several times during my stay and discovered something different each time. I almost cried. It was so stunning – Mary D.

I of course heard about the great cathedral of Notre Dame in Paris but never in my wildest dreams did I ever expect to see it….but see it I did..on a trip to Paris in 2016..we went to see it and tour it …I was totally in awe of the grandeur I encountered ….the bonus point for me was The Joan of Arc station who had been a saintly idol of mine since Grade school…also all the statues and religious artifacts and the living history of the past embodied in the catherdral inspired in me a peace and reverence I hadn’t known since childhood…At this point after the tragic fire of April 15 2019 I give thanks that I was able to visit the most holy place before it was partially destroyed…I await the return of Notre Dame to all it’s former glory – Betty Ann A.

On my husband’s first trip overseas, 2002, I remember him lighting candles for his parents, and awe over the medieval architecture and rose windows.
Our trip in 2015 with daughter and granddaughter was so much fun because we took time to relax and let her play with children in park behind buttresses. – Brenda M.

The Bohemian, a painting by William-Adolphe Bouguereau, 1890

The Bohemian, a painting by William-Adolphe Bouguereau, 1890

I remember going to mass there years ago and being in awe of all the beauty, history, and majesty around me! I just wish I had climbed to the top. Jennifer L.

I went with my father last summer. He actually injured himself the day before our flight to Paris so he was on crutches the entire time but he climbed to the very top. Growing up Catholic and watching the Hunchback of Notre Dame and studying art history made me dream of seeing all the beauty of the cathedral and it was worth the wait! – Ashley Elise S.

Went to mass there with my dad – when it was still in Latin. – Theresa N.

I visited Paris for the first time in 1971 when I was 16 years old. Nôtre Dame was the most amazing part of that visit. When I later studied in Paris, my travaux pratiques class was held every day in a classroom on the Rue du Cloître, less than 20 yards away from the cathedral. I never ceased to wonder each day that this magnificent edifice was already hundreds of years old when Columbus discovered the New World. I would go into the building 2 or 3 times every week, sometimes for Mass but just as often because it was a sunny day and I wanted to sit inside and look at the extraordinary light coming through the Rosace. I felt calm and serene and very peaceful. My parish church back then was St. Germain des Prés and I love its Romanesque history and modesty to this day, but Nôtre Dame was always my most cherished place. And with every subsequent visit to Paris, attending Mass here on my final Sunday was my tradition. It will be again. Grâce à Dieu. – Michael H.

My husband and I were poor, poor students. We would walk down Rue Saint Jacques every Sunday evening to hear the most beautiful free organ concerts a highlight of our week. So began our Love for our beautiful Lady and France and it’s inspirational people ❤️I will bring my Grandchildren when they are old enough to walk with you so they can see our beautiful Paris. – Judy A.

Official portrait of Queen Marie Thérèse depicted as the patron of the Cathedral of Notre-Dame - Henri et Charles Beaubrun 1670

Portrait of Queen Marie Thérèse of France, as patron of the Cathedral of Notre-Dame de Paris – 1660

Notre Dame has been on my bucket list for as long as I remember. I finally made it just over a year ago. To see it in person was a surreal experience for me. I am not Catholic but I am profoundly spiritual and have a deep love for all religion especially Catholicism as I lived in Spain for a year and a half in my early 20’s. I was with my husband and my two teenage boys last year and it was magical to see Notre Dame through their eyes. As we were leaving the church to go to the bell towers a storm came up of of nowhere with rain and wind so hard it was bringing the rain in sideways. We quickly ran back inside seeking real ‘sanctuary’. We did make it to the top of the bell towers later and I was overwhelmed to the point of tears by the beauty of Paris and this strength of this Cathedral that binds Paris. I’m so grateful that so much was saved and that Notre Dame will rise again. In this Easter season it is especially poignant to know that She will rise again and be whole. – Gretchen B.

I attended Mass at Notre Dame June 1975. Beautiful and had latte at a little cafe across the street. It was raining that morning and the gargoyles looked amazing with the water streaming from them. ♥️♥️♥️ Joanne Z.

For me, the heartbeat of Paris is Notre Dame. I love her windows, her artwork, her solemnity and, especially, the carved wood biblical story which wound around the alter. (I hope it survived.) My last visit was in October 2018 when my sister and I attended a audio/visual show projected onto the face of the cathedral. Following the program the doors of the cathedral were opened, and we experienced another light show inside which was accompanied by the Grand Organ. Such a wonderful memory. – Meredith P. T.

I visited Paris when I was 16. Notre Dame was the most amazing experience! The beautiful windows had me mesmerized! There was such a wonderful, peaceful feeling standing amidst the beauty and history. I was in tears watching the news reports. My heart goes out to Paris! 💕💕💕💕 – Audrey S.

I had the privilege of going to Notre Dame during the week when there were not too many people, our school brought us to the cathedral and we had free time for an hour, often under the eye of the sacristan Who was watching us from far, as long we respected the silence and the collection it was a good time, wonderful memory, we were like at home ! – Dominique G.

Notre Dame, a painting by Sylvius D. Paoletti, 1907

Notre Dame, a painting by Sylvius D. Paoletti, 1907

I visited Notre Dame during my trip to Paris in 2006. I stood in awe looking at the details in the arches and loved the rose windows. Hope to be back someday. – Mary Jo H.

I have always loved history. As a teenager I read many different histories of various European monarchies. This was my first introduction to Notre Dame. I saved and saved and left to travel Europe after university to find the great buildings I had read about. When I finally made it to Notre Dame I was mesmerized. I wanted to stay in that cool, dim world forever. In the quiet, the majesty, in the past I sat and said a prayer. Then I stood and walked as close as I could to see the Rose window. I imagined all the craftsmen it must have taken. Each beautifully cut colorful piece of glass put in place. Beautiful. – Heather H.

I studied Architecture in college and all I ever wanted to see was the flying buttresses, the rose windows, the layout… I only dared to dream of visiting one day. Fast forward 11 years later I meet Stéphanie Gaveau Mounts , a good friend, from Montpellier, who graciously showed me her home country in all its glory. Climbing to the balcony and peering out at the city I felt the wind and sunshine on my face. It was perfect. That view was liberating. I felt God in that moment. The architecture is breathtaking and forever holds significance as the only place I stepped foot in from my Architecture History books. I’m American but I knew in that moment, breathing in the stone and watching the city below, that I was home. – Datgurl T.

Notre Dame, a painting by Paul Signac, 1910

Notre Dame, a painting by Paul Signac, 1910

My first visit to Notre Dame was on a trip with my brother. We rented an apartment on Ile St Louis and walked over early in the morning to get in the already long line to climb to the top of the bell towers. 250+ steps. We were up close and personal with the gargoyles and the spire. Absolutely amazing. We then proceeded to climb to the top of the Arc de Triomph, Printemps department store and up to Sacre Coeur on the stairs all on the same day. A day I will never forget starting from the center of France. Sherry F.

I have loved the french culture and history since I was in high school in the U.S. I had the most wonderful French language teacher for four years as a teenager and through her teachings and passion for the topic, I fell in love with France (Thank you Ingrid. !). I dreamed of visiting for most of my life and didn’t have the opportunity until I was an adult in my 40’s. My first visit to Paris was in 2014 and it was everything I imagined and dreamed of as a teenager. Ms. Baird’s teachings came to life for me. Visiting Notre Dame was a highlight of my visit and it immediately became one of my favorite places. This is strange to say given I am an atheist. However, I respect different beliefs, history and art. I respect the significance of places and relics held dear by others. I have since visited Paris a total of 3 times with an upcoming 4th visit in June. Each visit is amazing and Notre Dame is part of what makes Paris such a special place for me. Carrie T.

Last visited Notre Dame was in December of 2018 with my son, his girlfriend, and my wife. This place brings me memories of my 8 year old son who I brought to Paris on my first visit. He was so confident of Paris, that he was my guide! He felt like he belong in this beautiful city. Today, I still dream of my wife and I can retire there. We are from Sugar Land Texas USA. Love your city. – Manny M.

I am not a religious person, but consider myself spiritual. I studied Notre Dame while an architecture student, so put it on my list of must-see sites to visit when I was in Paris a few years ago. When I stepped inside my breath was taken away. Sheer awe of the breadth of history contained in this beautiful cathedral, 850 years of human existence. No photos or videos can do it justice, simply something you have to see in person to truly appreciate its splendor. Randall O.

Gargoyle at Notre Dame, unknown photographer, ca. 1870

Gargoyle at Notre Dame, unknown photographer, ca. 1870

I had the honor of visiting the roof top bees two summers ago. Followed by a behind the scene tour of the beautiful church by the gentleman in charge of the restoration. It was unforgettable and an honor. Patricia M.

It had always been my dream to visit France 🇫🇷 Ever since I discovered Degas, Monet and Lautrec in High School, I was smitten. Then something awesome happened in college, while studying costume design in theatre school, when we got to the 18th c, well something happened! I flipped. I had never seen such pure majesty and glory. Oh my goodness.
Then I started reading more carefully french authors from Molière plays to Victor Hugo. Well. It had always been a dream to visit, Paris was something I cherished in my heart ❤️ (and fingertips!)
At 45 I finally arrived on the Left Bank on an Ash Wednesday night. I made one stop to my hotel on rue Racine & St Germain, and walked an easy 10 minutes to Notre Dame. I had traveled to be in Paris for my 45th bday!!!
What followed was so special.          Part Two of my first visit to Paris…..It Was to Notre Dame!
It was Ash Wednesday, 1999 almost 6 pm. As I walked through the chapel, and the long knave…crying in joy, I noticed a little bit of a commotion to the side. I walked towards an area blocked off by a red velvet rope and a security guard standing there. I read a sign saying only for locals, no visitors allowed (because a french mass was son to begin.) I walked away. But then, I thought, I must ask.
I turned back and asked, politely in my broken French, I asked the guard, if I may not attend? He answered, “For you, Oui!” and I was allowed in and sat on a little chair, attended mass and just was…awestruck!! Mary Lou H.

A visit to Norte Dame brings vivid memories of the beautiful glass windows, the elegance of the building both internally and externally. It was a place of quiet and wonder.
Notre Dame will, in time, again become elegant and a place of peace and calm.
Bravo to the fire brigade who dared to approach the raging flames. Dot D.

I am Canadian. In the 70’s I worked at the American Hospital of Paris for 3 years. My first visit in Paris was for Notre Dame. Was so thrilled to imagine I was walking at the same place Napoleon did when he was sacred emperor and by all the long history of that cathedral.
Went back to France many times later, every time paying a visit to Notre Dame.
In September 2001, with my best girl friend we were there while the NYtowers were attacked. So we ended up attending the solemn mass held at Notre Dame the following day. By shire luck, we were assigned places in the first row, left of the altar. The archbishop of Paris with the Paris American bishop celebrated the mass. It was a moment of such strong emotions. Notre Dame was full. Listening to the archbishop words trying to console the assembly was emotional. I remember crying, sobbing for long minutes. Thinking that the world was changing for the worst from then on.
This mass will stay in my heart until the day I die. Nicole B.

The Vampire, a photograph by Charles Nègre, 1853

The Vampire, a photograph by Charles Nègre, 1853

I had the good fortune to visit Paris many times. I visited the inside of Notre Dame twice over the years, I was there in 2016 and was debating if I should go inside for the 3rd time , since it had been awhile, unfortunately I decided against it because of the very long line ahead, I’ll go in next time, I thought!!! In hindsight I should have gone in. If only I would of known that was my last chance to see the original. NEVER take anything for granted ! – Yolanda A.

For me, walking into that majestic place that was 800 years old was surreal. I immediately felt it was a part of me from then on. When I saw the video of it burning, I felt my soul was burning too 😞 Tracie B.

In March, 2014 my brother and I visited Notre Dame after visiting my uncle’s grave at the Normandy Cemetery. I lit a candle for him and my mother, his sister. – Thomas S.

One of my many times in Paris, I was with ma fille et ses enfants, we went to Mass in Notre Dame. It was All Saints jour. A memorable experience.
Et j’aimais pas encore. Je suis très triste. J t’iame France ma pays de mes famille. Nous sommes de Honfleur – Diane D.

Went there as a young girl and have never forgotten it. Xx – Kathy S.

Getting to the top of ND (or at least as high as they’ll let you go without accident insurance) is quite a struggle and they don’t let you dally there all day, either.  10 minutes (max) and mademoiselle is herding you toward the ‘down’ staircase.  I asked mademoiselle how often she did the trip and she told me “twice a day: once before lunch, once after”.  She had, I would guess, less fat than a bottle of skim milk.  You say your diet’s not producing the results you want?  I’ve got just the answer… From the top of ND, see the 2nd bridge, the darker one.  That is Pont de Sully.  If you were on that bridge and walked toward the left up R. Henri IV in about 4 blocks you would come to the Bastille (that is, the monument which marks where it once stood).  Paris is very compact. – Frank C.

Le Pont de l'Archevêché et Notre-Dame, vus du quai de la Tournelle 1894 - Albert Lebourg

Le Pont de l’Archevêché et Notre-Dame, vus du quai de la Tournelle 1894 – Albert Lebourg

Hi Ann the first time we were in Notre Dame was on our honeymoon. We rented some headphones to listen to what Notre Dame was all about. Unfortunately we rented them in French lol and didn’t understand what was being said. So we went on our own and were amazed at everything we saw. I remember waiting on a long line and watching people step off the line for sandwiches until it was their turn to go in. The funniest thing I remember was a group of young girls on the very top standing near us but one was sitting behind on the floor. She said she was afraid of heights. Her friends asked us to take their picture and the scared girl agreed to join them. Just as soon as she went to them the bells rang and she screamed and fell back to the floor Although we felt bad for her we all laughed as did she. Those are the memories I have and would love to share with you. Francine P.

20 years ago, visiting our French friends , we walked the grounds and inside of Notre Dame, magnificent then and now, crowded with long queues still we managed to see the confessional box, the statues and the amazing architecture – Sheila G.

It was my senior year in high school. I remember walking through and thinking of all those who had gone before … the people you read about in the history books and those whose names are forgotten by history. And then I thought … I am now part of that same history. – Kevin P.

The “Tresor de Notre-Dame”… Christiane K.

My first visit to France in the early 80’s I went to see the Notre Dame with the school visit to PARIS ! and then second was the school again in1985 ! we stayed in Paris youth hostel was brilliant loved it ever since ! Michelle T.W.

 

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Sheila G. ‘story

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A big thanks to everyone , for sharing such touching memories (and for giving me the permission to publish them on this page) ! Your words are beautiful, They are full of emotion and poesy. It’s a great tribute to Notre Dame !

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VICTOR HUGO SAVED NOTRE DAME from RUIN

It took almost 200 years to build Notre Dame : from 1180 to 1260. It’s one of the world’s first Gothic cathedrals and among the first to use flying buttresses. It has survived wars, weather, and the French Revolution too. 

When a man understands the art of seeing, he can trace the spirit of an age and the features of a king even in the knocker on a door – Victor Hugo

Victor Hugo began writing “The Hunchback of Notre Dame “ ( = “Notre Dame de Paris”, the French title) in 1829, largely to save the building,  to make his contemporaries more aware of the value of the Gothic architecture.

It was an architecture that Parisians didn’t value and that was considered old-fashioned and even vulgar.  By then, Gothic architecture had given way to the Renaissance. And Notre Dame was  in a horrific state. When Victor Hugo’s novel came out, the attention turned back to the cathedral and the King ordered a restoration in 1844.

The original French title is “Notre Dame de Paris” (Our Lady of Paris). It refers to Notre Dame Cathedral, which is the central character of the novel. Although we know “The Hunchback of Notre Dame” mainly through Quasimodo, born deformed and Esmeralda a sixteen-year-old street dancer. The novel was published in 1831.

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AJIP p02022019-IMG_9509rivate walking tours : Share the Paris of a Parisian !

Not traditional guided tours, but an encounter and a way to see Paris in a different and authentic perspective. I welcome you, I accompany you and share my Paris with you, off the beaten track, at your own pace. Each of my tours can be personalized. . Don’t hesitate to contact me 

 

  • List of AJIP private tours – Here  – Each of the tours can be customized according to your wishes and interests :
  • About the booking and pricing: Here 

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13Apr

“A day with Hemingway” walk

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: Non classé People Tours
5 Comments
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Ernest Hemingway (1899-1961) is one of the greatest American 20th century novelists.   He is renowned for his spare but powerful waiting style. Famous for his novels like “The Sun also rises, “A farewell to arms” and also for “A moveable feast”, the memoir of his Paris years, written later after he returned to United States. Hemingway won the Nobel prize in 1954.

Sean Hemingway, Ernest Hemingway’s grand-son, said that what’s remarkable about his writing is that he really formed the writing in his head very carefully before it comes out”

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Ernest Hemingway, a figure that seems to belong to Paris

Although Ernest Hemingway has lived in Paris for only a short time (from 1921 to 1928), he is a figure that will always be connected to Paris. ThiA moveable feast - The BookThis is where he started writing his first novel which was going to be published (“The Sun also rises”) and this is where he lived the 6 years he spent with Hadley Richardson, his first wife. It seems that his years with Hadley in Paris were among his happiest years of his life and though he was married four times, that Hadley stayed his only true love.

Hemingway Hadley and others

Hadley (in the center) – Hemingway (on the left side)

He wrote “A moveable feast”, the memoir of his Paris years,  long after his return to United States with the help of notes he had written while in Paris.

“If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.“ – Ernest Hemingway

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“A day with Hemingway” walk is a great way to discover Hemingway’s Paris  

To take this walk with me or to get more information : Don’t hesitate to contact me : here

Hem in Shakespear & co. snapshot by Sylvia Beech

Hemingway in Shakespeare and Company in Saint Germain des Prés – Photo by Sylvia Beach

The walk takes you to most of the places Hemingway frequented. I have listed more than 25 places that are spread mostly across 3 neighborhoods (the Latin Quarter, Saint Germain des Prés and Montparnasse). The Latin Quarter where his first apartment was located, Montparnasse (his 2d apartment) and Saint Germain des Prés (his last home). And in these 3 neighborhoods, numerous cafés, brasseries and places he frequented…Without counting the streets in which he loved to stroll.xrue-mouffetard-vintage-photo-736-2x1.jpg.pagespeed.ic.hI0eY3Xjmw

And what’s amazing,  is that much of Hemingway’s Paris still exists: the cafés that he frequented, the brasseries where he dined, the places where he wrote some of his best writing, the places where he lived… Many of these places are mentioned in “Paris is a moveable feast” (his Paris’ memoirs) and in “”the Sun also rises” too.

But not only ! …. You don’t have to be the greatest fan of Hemingway to enjoy this stroll.

It is a good excuse to explore Paris off the beaten path, while stopping at some of Hemingway’s favorite spots. 

And…  it takes you back in time : If you love the 1920s era, “A day with Hemingway” is a way to experience what Paris was like at that time. In the 1920s, many writers and artists from all over the world moved to Paris and the American writers were known as the Lost Generation.Le Dome - cover-2-1170x543

To get more information about “A day with Hemingway” walk, Don’t hesitate to contact me : here

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Hadley,  the woman Hemingway never stopped lovingHadley2One can’t speak or write about Hemingway’s Paris without mentioning Hadley. Hemingway and Hadley were the golden couple of Paris in the 1920s

Wedding Hadley et Hemingway

Hadley Richardson, the woman he left and the woman Hemingway never stopped loving

Hemingway and Hadley

Hemingway was married four times. One says that Hadley (his first wife from 1921 to 1927) was his only true love and that he cherished her throughout his life.  And no one can denied Hadley’s major influence on Hemingway’s work. And her presence is found in Hemingway’s writing

Hemingway with Hadley and son Jack ‘Bumby, Paris 1920s. Photo- JFK Library

with their son Jack, nicknamed “Bumby

They lived 6 years together, which is most of the years Hemingway spent in Paris

With Hadley

He met her in 1920s, in Chicago, at a friend’s apartment. He was 21, Hadley was 28. They got married in Horton Bay, Chicago. They moved to Paris in 1921, shortly after their wedding. But they divorced in 1927, soon after Hemingway had a love affair with Pauline Pffeifer, who soon became his second wife. Hemingway and Hadley : a true love story and a heartbreaking ending.

Hem Hadley et Bumby

In “A moveable feast” he wrote about the years he spent with Hadley : I am happy and without any remorse and I never worked better nor was I happier and I loved the girl truly”. He displayed his feeling for her again in the novel “Islands in the stream” and dedicated “The sun also rises” to her and their son. His friend, A.E. Hotchner said that Hemingway has been seeking his great love the rest of his life, and that his separation from Hadley had haunted him to the grave.

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 Places where this walk will take you : 

“A day with Hemingway” walk takes you mostly off the beaten path, through the 3 main neighborhoods he frequented : the Latin Quarter, Saint Germain des Prés and Montparnasse.  Closerie des lilas en noir et Blanc

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Among the numerous spots we’ll stop at :  places where he lived, his favorite cafés and brasseries (often gathering spots of numerous artists and writers at that time),  the hotel where he spent his first days in Paris , the hotel where Hadley found herself alone with their son after Hemingway left her for Pauline (who was going to be his second wife)  , the cafe where he wrote most of “The Sun also rises” and many more

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To take this walk with me or to get more information : Dont’ hesitate to contact me : here

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How and why did I designed “A day with Hemingway” itinerary ?

I have always been passionate about knowing and visiting places where writers and artists lived and worked in Paris. I feel it’s a way to get closer to their writing, to get closer to the humans they were, a way to feel the city (rather that “visiting” it) and a way to get to know more about the history of Paris. And I had enjoyed reading the Hemingway books that are so associated to Paris (Especially “A moveable feast” but “The Sun also rises” too)Hemingway_à_Paris - Cardinal Lemoine

And it turns out that the 3 main neighborhoods that Hemingway frequented are my favorite too and those where I spent the most of my time in Paris. As you may know already (!), I am a “left bank” person. And it’s where I was born and raised and this is where I live now.
I have always known and frequented most of all the places mentioned by Hemingway in “A moveable feast”.

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However, before designing the tour, I sought out and checked all the addresses at which Hemingway had lived, every houses, hotels bars and restaurants, every street and block, I re-read his books* (the ones strongly linked to Paris, and I went again to all the “Hemingway’s addresses and hangouts. 

It was fun research and a real pleasure to work on designing this tour and it will be my pleasure to share it with you ! To take this walk with me or to get more information : Don’t hesitate to contact me : here

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A few notes about “A day with Hemingway” walk with AJIP

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My grand-parents in 1928 when they moved to the Latin Quarter

The Hemingway’s Latin Quarter : This is where Hemingway and Hadley settled in their first apartment in 1921, a very modest apartment in a working class neighborhood.      

With the exception of a few years, my grand-mother could have met Hemingway on the street or in a shop… !! For indeed, the street Hemingway used to go shopping was the one where my grand-mother loved to go to. And Hemingway and Hadley’s first apartment was located nearby the street where my grand-parents settled in the 30s

But Hemingway left Paris in 1928 (!), a short time after (one or two years) he divorced Hadley. And my grand-parents settled in this neighborhood around 1929… (!)

During our stroll through this part, we’ll see : a lively market street, the building where his first apartment was located, his favorite café located at a charming square. We’ll walk the same streets he used to walk to go either to the Luxembourg garden, to Gertrude Stein his friend and great supporter, or to the banks of the Seine. And we’ll pass by many other Hemingway’s spots

 

The as ever confident Hemingway, Paris 1922. Photo- Hemingway Collection

Hemingway in the courtyard of his 2d Paris home

Hemingway’s Montparnasse : a neighborhood where many artists lived, gathered and worked in the 1920s. It was the neighborhood of Hemingway‘s second apartment in Paris. Where he and Hadley moved  when they came back to Paris in 1927 (after their son was born in Toronto).779-rotonde-la

Of course, there was no chance for me to meet Hemingway (!!!!) , but the area where he lived (1924-1927) is my most favorite Paris area. The place where my secondary school was located and the neighborhood that I’ve so often preferently chosen, when a teenager, to meet my friends in cafés, to go to movie theaters and so on. A neighborhood I  favour, still now. And surely the area I’d like to choose if I had to change apartment.

When a teenager, I didn’t know about the rich history of Montparnasse… A few years later, I learnt about it, and it made me love Montparnasse even more

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Where Hemingway used to stroll

During our stroll  through Montparnasse, we’ll see : His second home with Hadley, the home of Ezra Pound, the 4 cafés he loved (among them the Closerie des Lilas where he wrote almost the whole of “The Sun also rises”, the place where he met Scott Fitzgerald for the first time, hthe location of Gertrude Stein apartment (where they used to meet and discuss), l’hotel where he started his love affair with Pauline Pffeifer, the location of the bakery where he used to go, the hotel where Hadley felt so lonely after they separated.

Hemingway’s Saint Germain des Prés : This is where Hemingway and Hadley stayed the first days they arrived in Paris. This is also where numerous of his favorite cafés and restaurants are located too. And this is where the original Shakespeare and Company (owned by Sylvia Beach) was located too (So this is not the actual Shakespeare and Company, rue de la Bûcherie, that opened in 1951,long after Hemingway left Paris).

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With Sylvia Beach (on the right side) at Shakespeare and Company

Sylvia Beach was the owner of this lending library/bookshop,  which played a major role in Hemingway’s life when in Paris, alike in many other writers’s life. It was a gathering place for artists and particularly the American expatriate community (J Joyce, Fitzgerald, Gertrude Stein and many more … ) Hemingway used to borrow books there.

One of my favorite places to meet friends, to wander by myself, to spend time in cafés, reading working dreaming.

During our stroll , we’ll see : the hotel where he stayed with Hadley during his first Paris days, the location of the original Shakespeare and Company, 2 restaurants he used to go regularly, 3 cafés he especially loved, his second home with Pauline, the Luxembourg Garden where he loved to wander, the location of the museum he used to go to and other spots

Some RECOMMENDATIONS AND SUGGESTIONS : BELOW on this page : Books, article and the hotel where Hemingway stayed when he arrived in Paris

MORE PHOTOS OF HEMINGWAY’s PARIS at the BOTTOM OF THIS PAGE

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 AJIP private walking tours

To take this walk with me or to get more information : Don’t hesitate to contact me : here

“A day with Hemingway” private walking tour, will take you from the Latin Quarter to Montparnasse, through Saint Germain des prés. We’ll walk the streets Hemingway used to walk and will stop at the places where he lived, at his favorite cafés and all the places that were important during his Paris years.02022019-IMG_9509

I’ll give you a small booklet with the list of the places we’ve seen and explored and in addition the list of the main other places he used to go to on the right bank (some of them he visited long after his Paris’ years) such as the Ritz.

“A day with Hemingway” walk, includes two breaks with a drink (included in the fees) in two of Hemingway’s favorite cafés

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  • If you prefer a shorter walk, we can focus on 2 of these 3 neighborhoods : any combination which suits you.  
  • The whole walk can be divided into two parts too (on two different days)

If you’re coming to Paris soon and feel like discovering the Paris of Hemingway, if you’re passionate about Paris in the 1920s, about discovering the city off the beaten path, wether you’re a fan of Hemingway or not, Don’t hesitate to contact me 

  • List of AJIP private tours – Here  – Each of the tours can be customized according to your wishes and interests : 
  • About the booking and pricing: Here 

MORE PHOTOS OF HEMINGWAY’s PARIS at the BOTTOM OF THIS PAGE

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My recommendations and suggestions :

You don’t have to have read Hemingway’s books or his biographies to enjoy “A day with Hemingway”

But if you haven’t, our walk may make you want to know more about Hemingway’s life, about Hemingway’s work and about his love story with Hadley ! Here some suggestions

  • “A moveable feast” by Hemingway (his Paris’ memoir) – Written after his Paris years. Published in 1964 by Mary Hemingway, his 4th wife, 3 years after Hemingway’s death. A moveable feast - The Book
  • “The Sun also rises” by Hemingway (1926) – The novel of the Lost Generation  – The setting at the beginning of the book takes place in Paris. – Hemingway’s first novel, written while he was in Paris and which established him as a writer of genius.Fiesta-The-Sun-Also-Rises-by-Ernest-Hemingway_[4665]_568
  • “The Paris’ wife“ – by Paula Mc Lain – The story of Hadley and Hemigway’s relationship from its beginning to its heartbreaking endingThe_Paris_Wife_book_cover
  • “Midnight in Paris” (2011) – the movie, by Woody Allen. “A moveable feast” has provided inspiration for Woody Allen’s movie. Midnight in Paris is set in the Paris of the 1920s as portrayed in Hemingway’s memoir The movie features the figures of Hemingway, Gertrude Stein, F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald and uses the phrase “A moveable Feast’ in 2 sentences. Hemingway in Midnight in Paris
  • “Paris without end : the true story of Hemingway’s wife” by Gioia Diliberto
  • “The Paris‘ husband” by Scott Donaldson (2018)
  • “Hemingway in Love, his own story” a book by AE Hotchner (one of his close friends)
  • And I invite you to read this article : Ernest Hemingway in Love 
  • HOTEL d’ANGLETERRE : You can stay in the hotel where Hemingway and Hadley stayed during their first days in Paris. The room (room 14) is unchanged. It has to be reserved far in advance – 44 rue Jacob – Paris 6 – Website of the hotel d’Angleterre https://www.hotel-dangleterre.com

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    Room 14 – Hotel d’Angleterre – 44 rue Jacob – Paris 6

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MORE PHOTOS

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Where Hemingway like to stroll and shop

 

Sylvia Beach & Adrienne Monnier

Sylvia Beach and Adrienne Monnier at Shakespeare and Company (the original bookshop !)

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Ernest Hemingway at his desk, working

EH5180 Paris Years:1922-1930 Ernest Hemingway wearing hat and holding John (Bumby) Hemingway. Series 03. Paris Years, 1922-1930. Box 3, Folder 21. Please Credit: "Ernest Hemingway Photograph Collection. John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, Boston."

Ernest Hemingway  holding John (Bumby) Hemingway.
Please Credit: “Ernest Hemingway Photograph Collection. John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, Boston.”

Hadley et Bumby

Hadley with Bumby in their Montparnasse apartment

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Shakespeare and Company, the original bookshop in Saint Germain des Prés

Ernest Hemingway with his son Bumpy (Jack), Paris 1925 -by Man Ray

Ernest Hemingway with his son Bumpy (Jack), Paris 1925

 

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Gertrude Stein, who welcomed, support and helped Hemingway

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4Jan

Paris’ bookstalls : browsing for books along the Seine

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: Non classé Places Useful Informations
12 Comments
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A stroll through the bouquinistes’ stalls is a genuine experience and a real pleasure. And the Paris’ bookstalls are one of the most iconic symbols of Paris15102018-IMG_7305

In brief : 

The “bouquinistes’ (=  Paris’ bookstalls) are traditional secondhand booksellers located along the quays of the rive Seine. It’s the largest open air bookshop in Europe. One of the most iconic symbols of Paris. Paris wouldn’t be the same without its bookstalls !

In “A moveable feast” Hemingway,mentions the bouquinistes; Hemingway used to visit the bookstalls and buy second-hand books there, especially on the left bank (Hemingway has spent all his Parisian years on the left bank (first in the Latin Quarter, then, in Montparnasse, then in Saint Germain des Prés, and finally in the South part of Montparnasse. 

Hemingway wrote : Shakespeare and company A moveable feast

“In the bookstalls along the quais, you could sometimes find American books that had just been published for sale very cheaply…if the people (in the Tour d’Argent’s
rooms) who lived there left any books behind there was a bookstall not far along the quai where the valet de chambre sold them and you could buy them from the proprietress for a very few francs…. After that bookstall near the Tour d’Argent, there were no others that sold American and English books entitle Quai des Grands Augustins” (in A Moveable feast – Chapter 4 – People of the Seine)

Among the other most famous customers, François Mitterrand, who liked to “browse” the quays, then walking back home (rue de Bièvre – Paris 5)  followed by his two bodyguards !

Left Bank - Bouquinistes - 1920

Bouquinistes in 1920 – 0n the left bank – At the time Hemingway was in Paris

sur le quai de la Tournelle années 1950 - Paris 5e

Quai de la Tournelle années in 1950 – Paris 5

Some figures : 

  • around 1000 boxes
  • 240 booksellers
  • 3 kms along the river Seine
  • Since the 16th century
  • more than 300 000 items : books and magazines and many others items
  • Opened daily from the morning to sunset ( but generally from 11am). Then the “boxes are locked with padlocks

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    Quai Voltaire – Paris 6

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Vintage magazines

Where does the word “bouquiniste” come from ? (Bouquinistes = bookstalls)

Bouquiniste is formed with the word “bouquin”. The Bouquinistes are the shopsellers who sell “bouquins” ! (The term “bouquiniste” appeared in the dictionary of the French Academy in 1762.)

Bouquin doesn’t mean exactly “book”. The classic and exact French translation for book is : “livre”. Actually, “livre” and bouquin” are synonymous but with a slight difference (more details/explanation below).

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Quai Voltaire – Paris 6

 

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Quai Voltaire – Paris 6

The word “bouquin” was originally used to depict an old book. Nowadays, “bouquin” is more often used to depict a book in a familiar way, a bit closer to French slang for book. It’s not rude at all to use the word “bouquin”, but it’s a much less elegant way of speaking… less litterary !!!  The word “bouquin” come from the old dutch word (17th c) : boeckjijn ou boekin

My personal note : The bookstalls are so much a part of Paris’ landscape that I believe unfortunately, we Parisians (including myself), sort of forget about them.
Both planning to write this article, and taking my visitors for tours nearby and along the Seine gave me the opportunity to rediscover these iconic bookstalls much better (!) , And it made me want to spend more time browsing them. It reminded me of how pleasant it is to stroll along this huge open-air bookshop in the wonderful setting of the Seine and with Notre Dame, the Conciergerie or Le Louvre in the background. So thank you for that !!

What do they look like and where to find them ?

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Notre Dame in the background

They are 240 of them, dark green color. In French, we call their color :  “green wagon”. It refers to the dark green of old train carriages. The color has been strictly defined since 1891, so as to be in harmony with the Wallace fountains and the Morris columns. 

And we call them : “boîtes” (= “boxes”). They are made with metal and they are hanging on the parapets of the banks of the Seine.

They are all the same size : The size was fixed since 1930 :

  • Length : 2 meters
  • Between each box : 20cm.
  • Width : 0.75 meters.
  • The upper edge of the opened cover mustn’t be higher than 2.10 meters above the ground .

They are registered on the UNESCO world heritage since 1991.

There are 240 of them extending for 2,8 kilometers along the banks of the  Seine : 

WHERE ?

  • On the right bank from  Marie bridge (= Pont Marie Paris 4 – Marais neighborhood – Metro stop Pont Marie or Saint Paul) to Louvre bank ( = Quai du Louvre – nearby Le Louvre)
  • On the left bank  from Tournelle bank ( = Quai de la Tournelle – Paris 5 – Latin Quarter) to Voltaire bank ( = Quai Voltaire, nearby Orsay Museum and the rue du Bac)2018-09-07 - Carte de Paris des Bouquinistes

Being a bookseller  :

4 boxes are allowed for each bookseller (4 boxes of 2 meters long for each bookseller). The booksellers don’t pay any tax nor rent but they need to get a license ( a yearly renewable license, issued by the City of Paris). They must be open at least 4 days a week. 

What do they offer ? 

They originally used to offer (and still do !) : second hand books (including rare editions of novels), prints, old magazines, old manuscripts and newspapers, old photos, posters, and collectable postcards. You can find French books as well as English books. 

Prices are generally displayed even for old and rare items. And you can most often find something to enjoy (a book or any other items) from 1 euro !

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Posters and postcards

The tourism increasing, they now offer Paris souvenirs too (key rings, and other souvenir gifts) too. Though the city of Paris ask them to focus their offer mostly on their original activity and minimize the offer of touristic souvenirs. Thus, only 1 of the 4 boxes (at most) can be dedicated to tourist souvenirs. 

Each bookseller who is running a bookstall tend to have his own specialty. For instance, a bookseller chose to have international customers and thus, is selling the American magazine “National Geographic” and english magazine published since 1888, but he is selling French literature, science fiction and detective novels too.

A bit of History !

The tradition was born around the 16th century. Itinerant booksellers were selling books, travelling back and forth along the Seine and on the Pont Neuf too ( = the oldest Paris’ bridge).

In the 19th century, the first bouquinistes settled on the Quai Voltaire in 1821, installing their boxes permanently. 

From 1891, they were allowed to leave their items during the night. During the Universal exhibition of 1900, there were already 200 bouquinistes along the river Seine.

Image below : in 1858 

Bouquinistes Quai des grands Augustins en 1858

Quai des Grands Augustins in 1858

sur le quai des Grands Augustins - années 1900

Quai des Grands Augustins – 1900

Depicted in numerous paintings of Paris, especially during the impressionist period :

http-::www.pillon-encheres.com:html:fiche.jsp?id=7619365&np=3&lng=fr&npp=50&ordre=2&aff=1&r=

Edouard Léon Cortès (1882-1969)

Edouard Léon Cortès (1882-1969)

My suggestion : Combine a stroll along the bouquinistes with one of Ann Jeanne in Paris tours :

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Ann Jeanne

A walking tour in the “Latin Quarter” or a walking tour “From Le Marais to Notre Dame (via Saint Louis Island)”. 

(Each tour can be customized, according to your wishes and interests or combined with another AJIP tour). All the tours are lead by me.)

  • More details about AJIP private walking tours : please click here 
  • Just of the different walking tours : please click here
  • Don’t hesitate to contact me 

You can also combine a visit of  the Bookstalls, with a visit of the Sainte Chapelle, a visit of Notre dame cathedral, a visit of Orsay museum, a visit of Shakespeare and Company bookstore and so on… !

A few more pictures !

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Bouqinistes - Quai Voltaire 1910

Quai Voltaire 1910

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9Dec

About Paris’ protests (“Yellow vests” / “Gilets jaunes”)

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: Lettre Non classé
32 Comments
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Some words about Paris protests (“Yellow vests” / “Gilets Jaunes”) (1)
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I have received messages from several of you wondering if I was fine. I’d like to thank you for your thoughts. I am fine so as my family and friends.

And here are some of my thoughts about what’s going on in some parts of Paris :

The protests are very spectacular but take place in confined neighbourhoods of Paris only. (They take place in many other locations all over France too)

Most of the city, most Parisians, though really concerned (alike me) by the current (violent) events, can carry on with their everyday life in a quiet atmosphere.

I feel as a citizen and can’t be indifferent to what’s going on. I feel committed in what’s going on in my city, my country, and in the rest of the world too

But so many media have already communicated about these events already…. What could I say more ?

… But finally, I chose to write a few words about all what’s going on… The media are showing and focusing on what’s worst and are making the world think that the whole city is on fire and that everything in Paris is destroyed…


Which is not the case… at all…. Though I would never minimize the violence… which is real.
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This protest movement which at the start, was meant to be a social protest, finally looks quite antisocial to me. This protests are supported by the far right that try to highjack the protest for political purpose

Infiltrated by far right people, by people causing material damages, engaged in looting. Shops are destroyed and looted. People , protesters (and police too…), are put in danger.

Owners, and small and medium sized business owners are going to face huge expense to rehabilitate the place. The city of Paris (several million euros) and others French cities and locations too. Some companies and shops will just close down and numerous people, the same that are suffering for the same reason than the protesters, will soon be unemployed. It’s the defamation or the representative democracy.

A leaderless protest, some fighting one another, no main thrust, no representative, a protest with no banner. Difficult to negotiate and communicate with a heteroclite group with no banner… However, a few individuals have wanted to negotiate with the political representatives.

61JxhshdusL._SY355_The people who has expressed the willing to encounter members of the government as to express their claims have been harshly threaten by other protesters.

Now that they have obtained the suppression of fuel taxes, some express the will of the president’s demission (sometimes asking even worse…). Finally, the claims are going off in all directions, under the banner of no one, associated to the far right with acts of destruction and looting…

Not that I support Macron ‘s politics. We could have surely expected better and not that I’m happy with the tax policy. France have (among  ?) the highest  taxes in whole Europe. And many people and companies are suffocating. But it’s not something new… It is not an issue that only goes back a few years. 

The group phenomenon (started on social media) has generated a public hysteria, Macron’s inappropriate words has probably participated at crank up the conflict. The media too, too often primarily concerned with their audience …  I wouldn’t support this hysteria…

Jacques Lacan (2) , French psychoanalyst once wrote : « Ce que vous aspirez comme révolutionnaires, c’est à un maître. Vous l’aurez ».

” What you aspire to as revolutionaries is a master. You will get one.”

This was in 1968 and at this time people were fighting for their ideal, for more liberty and a less patriarchal society, and they were not looting… However, I hope we won’t have this master. This is what may happen if the majority of the public opinion (and this is what’s seems to be…) carries on supporting these “protests”… No Master please. Better people educated as to make them citizens, thinking people, not followers. No obedients/followers.

Thank you for reading these few words and I apologize if my writing is too clumsy (which actually is another proof that I’m French…!). And thanks again for following my Facebook posts

Writing this article was not my first project after such a long time without writing any article (my previous plan was to write an article about Bookstalls in Paris !!) but … the events helping…

Below, some photos of Paris’ quiet neighborhoods, as they were this weekend, including my neighborhood (Paris 14)

 

(1) I guess that if some French read by chance this note, I may not be complimented nor get some new French friends…… !

(2) Jacques Lacan was a French psychoanalyst and psychiatrist (1901 – 1881),  who has been called “the most controversial psycho-analyst since Freud”.  IMG_9491

 

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30Jun

Vanves flea market – Paris 14

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: Non classé Places
4 Comments
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Vanves flea market : charm and authenticity 

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24062018-IMG_4634If you’re a passionate collector, a lover of hunting for bargains, or just enjoy wandering through flea markets, you’ll probably like Vanves flea market!  Carte Paris avec repère pour le marché de Vanves

Every Saturday and Sunday morning, it’s a paradise for “les Chineurs” (= the French nickname for the bargain hunters). More confidential than Saint-Ouen. On a sunny Sunday morning, more especially,  you’ll spend an exquisite peaceful morning, whether you’ve planned or not to buy something, whether you’ve bought or not something !

It is one of the largest flea markets in Paris : 350 merchants along 2 avenues (boulevard Marc Sangnier and boulevard Lafenestre) on the edge of Southern Paris.   At the crossroad of these two avenues a man play on his piano.

This market is filled with charm and authenticity, friendly. A relaxing and joyful way to spend a morning of a weekend24062018-IMG_4618

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What will you find at Vanves flea market?

If you love authentic items, this is the place to go to. 

20s and 30s items, 18th, 19th and art deco objects, luminaires, glassware and silverware; vintage jewellery and fantasy, cameras, records, old French comic books and old papers; dusty antique books, old fashion magazines from the 20s and 30s (and some a bit more recent ones), coins, military medals; paintings, drawings and engravings and vintage postcards, antique toys, religious objects, dolls, old dishes, table cloths, vases, vintage kitchen items…

Only a few stalls vending old clothes and textiles. Same for big furniture

Most of what’s sold there is quite affordable and you can negotiate the price as in all flea markets24062018-IMG_4662

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The main Paris’ flea markets are Montreuil, Saint Ouen, and Vanves. They developed during the 19th century on the area where the fortified wall of Thiers (President of France from 1871 to 1873) was located. (The wall of Thiers was a defensive wall,  built around 1840 and included almost the whole  actual Paris. It was demoslished around 1920.)

The Saint Ouen flea market is by far the largest in the city (more than 2500 stalls and 17 kilometres of alleyways spread over 6 hectares).24062018-IMG_4677

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So why choose Vanves?

Much smaller than Saint Ouen flea market: you’ll easily find you way, won’t get lost and won’t feel overwhelmed. Also a peaceful and intimate Parisian atmosphere, a little outdated, easily accessible by metro, and still largely the haunt of locals and regulars. You’ll find there atmosphere of an old Paris.

Some of the vendors are professionals and many of them have had a stall for a long time. Some of them for several decades. 

But if you‘re more interested in large furniture, Saint Ouen flea market will probably be a better place. And if you’re looking for vintage clothing, the choice in Saint Ouen flea market will be much larger.24062018-IMG_4687 24062018-IMG_4670

My suggestions and opinion :

  • Saint Ouen or Vanves ? Pro : Vanves is a smaller and thus of a more manageable size. You can’t get lost ! . Cons : Not the best place for furniture (or clothing, especially if you’re looking for something specific)
  • Plan to arrive not too late, if possible around 10.30 or earlier if possible, for the best finds. Not after 11am (The vendors generally leave around 1.30pm)
  • Take some cash with you. Most vendors take cash only. And be prepare to bargain,
  • Needs between 1.30 to 2.30 hours to enjoy it; Good prices.
  • Some vendors speak some English. It would be helpful if you spoke a little French. Don’t hesitate to bargain.24062018-IMG_4628

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Practical details :

  • Marc Sangnier avenue and Georges Lafenestre avenue – Paris, 14th arrondissement
  • Opened year-round on Saturday and Sunday from 7 to 1.30pm
  • Free entrance
  • Metro stop : Porte de Vanves, line 13 or Tram T3 or Bus 58, 95, 191
  • http://www.pucesdevanves.fr/
  • Payment in cashCarte des rues du Marché de Vanves

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You can combine your visit to Vanves flea market with : 

AJIP Private walking tours 

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Ann Jeanne in Paris

Share my Paris, the Paris I love. I welcome you, I accompany you and we walk at your own pace. I’ll be delighted to be your friend in Paris ! 2 days, 3 days or more,  half a day,  a whole day with a native Each tour includes a break in a Parisian cafe. It’s a cross cultural experience and a way to see Paris in a different perspective. A way to know more about Paris’ life and culture. 

 

Ann Jeanne in Paris’ private tours are designed for one or two persons. A friendly, authentic and personal way to experience Paris. I was born and raised in Paris. Paris is the city where I live.

More details about Ann Jeanne Paris tours  – contact

And  : Some details about the booking and pricing

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26Mar

My 20 suggestions of gifts to take back home

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: Non classé Useful Informations
9 Comments
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This list includes my personal suggestions. It’s not (of course !) an exhaustive  nor an objective list. I may update it later in case I find out other ideas to suggest you.

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1 – Anne Maisonneuve’s T-shirts : You can get a  T-shirt with a great printing related to Paris. Elegant, Parisian and fun. For instance : macarons, Eiffel tower made with macarons…. And many more. Not a souvenir look but a T-shirt you’ll probably enjoy to wear as a good memory of your Paris stay ! BTW : Don’t rely too much on their website : the products look much greater in real !! In the shop, you’ll find costume jewels too – Where ? : Anne Maisonneuve – 113 boulevard Raspail – Paris 6 – Metro stop : Notre Dame des Champs (Montparnasse neighborhood) – annemaisonneuve.comOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Lacroix22 – Mariage Frères tea: Mariage Frères is an old renowned French company (since 1854),  which sells a large range and high quality tea – They sell nice teapots and cups too.   Where ? :  Saint germain des Prés :  13 rue des Grands Augustins – Paris 6 // La Madeleine : 17, place de la Madeleine – Paris 8 // Tour eiffel 56 rue Clerc – Paris 7 // Le Bon Marché 38, rue de Sèvres, Paris 7 (La Grande Epicerie, 1st Floor) // Galeries Lafayette , 21b boulevard Haussmann, Paris 9 (ground floor) // Printemps, 64 boulevard Haussmann Paris 9 (3d floor) – www.mariagefreres.com 

Another French brand of Tea : Kusmi tea, a nice french brand of tea too (In La Grande Epicerie of the Bon Marché – Metro stop : Sevres Babylone and several Kusmi tea shops in Paris including one on the Champs Elysées

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Mariage frères – French Tea

Lacroix23 – French candies : Calissons, Marrons glacés, Pralines, Nougats, berlingots, all very popular French candies. This is just some of the most traditional French candies. There are many others. 

“Les Anis de Flavigny” : the oldest fresh candies, not larger than a pea. The original ones are made with anise; Other flavors : rose, lemon, mint, violet… And the boxes are gorgeous old-style metal boxes. 

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Anis de Flavigny

Where ? confectionery, delicatessen La grande Epicerie of the Bon Marché, A La Mère de Famille shops

Marrons glacés (= Candied chesnuts): Seasonal candies that can be found generally in Chocolate shops from end november to end of January. A confection originating in southern France and northern italy, consisting of a chestnut candied in sugar syrup and glazed. People who like them actually LOVE them. Where ? : high quality chocolate shops such as JP Hevin, Jacques Genin, La Maison du Chocolat, Patrick Roger, Arnaud Lahrer. The making process of those candies is so complex that if you get them in ordinary shops you may be very disappointed.Marrons glacés

Calissons : a traditional French diamond-shaped candy, made of a smooth pale yellow paste of candied fruit and ground almonds topped with a thin layer of royal icing. Renown brands for Calissons : Léonard Parli (founded in 1874) or Roy René. The packaging is what they call themselves a “diamond-shaped box”. Where ? confectionery, delicatessen La grande Epicerie of the Bon Marché, A la Mère de Famille shops

Calissons

Calissons

Nougat :  the Montelimar nougat, has a traditional whitish color and is made of honey, almonds and a light mousse of egg whites  mixed in copper cauldrons. Made since the 18th century, in the Ardèches (region of France). My recommendation : choose it in bar shape (rather than in small candy size) then cut it when you want some and buy it in a chocolatier or a good quality candy shop (rather than in a supermarket), this will make a real difference. Check too that “Montelimar” is written on the package. You can ask for nougat soft (=tender) or hard. Generally, nowadays, you’ll find more easily soft nougat (that I recommend) rather than hard.Where ? confectionery, delicatessen La grande Epicerie of the Bon Marché, A la Mère de Famille Montelimar

Pralines : combination of almonds and caramelized sugar. Created in the 17th century It’s a specialty of Montargis, city of the Loire Valley, nearby Orleans. You can find brown or pink pralines. Mazet (French brand, founded in 1903) is maybe the most famous brand of Pralines, located in Montargis. Pralines roses

Berlingots : Hard and pyramidal shape candies. Nice to eat and to look at. And I must say that I like the sound of the word “Berlingot” too (!). Very musical ! Though I remember that you can’t eat music !Berlingots

Where find these candies ? In La Grande Epicerie of the Bon Marché, and in most of confectionary and chocolate shops.  “A la mère de Famille“ is a popular confectionary shop. The larger “A Mere de Famille” (and the original one)  is located 35, rue du Faubourg Montmartre – Paris 9 

Lacroix24 – Chocolate : Many great chocolate shops in Paris.Chocolate

My suggestions : Jacques Genin chocolate shop, 27 rue Varenne, Paris 7 (in Saint Germain des Prés – Metro Stop : Rue du Bac or Sèvres Babylone) : a large shop and a great service www.jacquesgenin.fr  . Or Jean Paul Hevin shop : 3, rue Vavin – Paris 6 (Metro stop : Vavin, Montparnasse neighborhood) www.jeanpaulhevin .

Other renown chocolate shops :   Arnaud Lahrer, Pierre Marcolini…and many more !

Lacroix25 – Armor Lux : The « Marinière » = the classic Breton stripe shirt  : It’s an iconic French armor_luxoutfit, that actually is originated from Brittany and a cloth that takes its inspiration from the maritime tradition. It’s a great French basic that many French have in their wardrobe; a classic ! Jean Paul Gaultier has been using it as an emblematic piece of his fashion collections.  Armor Lux is renown for its “Marinières”. It’s a company created 80 years ago in Quimper a western city of Brittany (itself a western region of France). You’ll find marinières from women, children and men. Where ? Seven Armor Lux shops in Paris. Among them : Saint Germain : Paris- Sèvres, 33, rue de Sèvres Paris 6 –// Montparnasse : Paris-Vavin, 16, rue Vavin, Paris 6 // Montmartre – 1bis rue de Ravignan – Paris 18 – www.armorlux.com/en/armor-lux-classic-long-sleeve-off-white-1629215051842_675

Or Petit bateau (= “little boat”)– another renown French company,  a 124 years old company – nice great quality Tshirts and other products – They often sell Marinières too. Where ? 30 Petit Bateau shops in Paris – One in Saint Germain des Prés – 33 rue du Four – Paris 6 www.petit-bateau.co.uk

Lacroix26 – Traditional French Biscuits : Lu, Paille d’or, Crêpes dentelles, sablés bretons (La Grande Epicerie, Monoprix)

Crêpes dentelles

Crêpes dentelle

Crêpes dentelles : one of the iconic biscuit originated from Brittany dating back to 1893 : pancake. www.gavottes.fr/fr
batter rolled into a lace-thin cylinder. As light as crispy and succulent Brand recommended : “Gavottes”  You can get a cardboard box (lighter than the metal ones)

Galettes pont aven

Galettes Bretonnes

Sablés Bretons ( called “galettes” bretonnes too) : Breton round shortbread cookies, sandy texture, slightly salted. Brands recommended : Traou mad, Saint Michel, Ker Kadelac, La Trinitaine. Warning : not to be confused with the “‘Sablés de Retz” (different texture and taste)

Palets bretons

Palets Bretons

Palets Bretons (= Breton “disk”) : thicker than the sablés (about 3 cm thick), quite soft and slightly salted. Brands recommended : Traou mad, Saint Michel, Ker Kadelac, La Trinitaine. Warning : not to be confused with the “‘Sablés de Retz” (different texture and taste)

Palmito

Palmiers Palmito

Palmiers (= “palm tree”) : flaky and crunchy. Nature (= the original and classic one) or chocolate (black or milk chocolate). Brand recommended : Palmito

Tuiles (=tiles) : egg white, caster sugar, flour, butter and vanilla extract. Great with a fruit salad for instance.

Cigarrettes russes

Cigarettes Russes

Cigarettes russes : Cigarette-shaped biscuits, sandy and empty, size of a cigar. A great classic that you can eat on its own or with ice-cream. Brand recommended : Delacre 

Barquettes

Barquettes Lu

Barquettes: Little boat- shape biscuits. The children especially like them. The original is apricot flavour, but some are chocolate or strawberry… Brand recommended : Lu

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Pailles d’or de Lu

Paille d’Or (= gold straw) Strawberry (Lu Brand): rasberry wagers, very fine and crispy with no artiicial color or flavor. Brand recommended : Lu

Where ? You can get most of these biscuits in the Monoprix or in La grande Epicerie of the Bon Marché (in the Franprix too)

Warning : There are everal chains of stores selling biscuits that I wouldn’t recommend. Their storefronts look really attractive, but in my opinion their products are as much disappointing as their storefront and setting are attractive.

Lacroix27 – Heyraud umbrellas. Not an ordinary souvenir – Wonderful umbrellas that look more real ombrella than souvenir that won’t last – Parisian patterns : Le Pont des Arts – Tour Eiffel pattern. Not made for tourists but for Paris lovers (either Parisians or visitors) . Herault company sell mainly high quality shoes, an a few other products  Where ? Heyraud – Paris Montparnasse 142 rue de Rennes – Paris 6 // Heyraud – Paris St Germain 23 rue du Four – Paris 6 // Heyraud – Paris Rivoli 90 rue de Rivoli – Paris 1 – // Heyraud Paris La Madeleine, 5 boulevard de la Madeleine, Paris 9 // Heyraud paris Italiens, 32 boulevard des Italiens, Paris 9 Heyraud umbrellas

Lacroix28 – Hermès scarves : An iconic brand and an iconic great French classic. A scarf as much as a work of art. Awsome material and design… and… very pricey (around 360 euros) … The house of Hermès launched the creation of its first ever silk scarf in 1937. Most popular size : 90cm X 90 cm. Where ?  Main Hermès store (flagship store) : 24 rue du faubourg Saint Honoré (between La Madeleine and La Concorde) The store itself is worth the visit //  In Saint Germain des Prés 17 rue de Sèvres Paris 6 // in Le Bon Marché too.

The Christian Lacroix scarves are gorgeous too. Expensive too, but far less expensive than the Hermès scarves. Where ?  Le Bon Marché ( www.24sevres.com/fr-ba/accessoires/echarpes-et-foulards/foulards ) or at the Galeries Lafayette or Le Printemps. 

You’ll find other wonderful scarves in the department stores, like in Le Bon Marché

Lacroix29 – Get your portrait drawn at the Place du Tertre. Your portrait or your silhouette !

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Place du Tertre – Montmartre (Paris 18)

The Place du Tertre is the most “touristic” spot of Montmartre village. Probably the most touristic spot in Paris. However having your portrait drawn, may be a great idea, a great memory of your stay. Try to avoid to crowded hours. Better choose the morning or an early evening. Take your time to choose the artist and if the artist is too insistent and pushy, don’t hesitate to say no and walk away. The average price : 60 euros for an individual portrait. Don’t hesitate to bargain a little. I can help you if I’m with you.

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Get your silhouette cut by a Montmartre artist : Silhouette cut-outs : Great too. One of my friends still fancy having her sihouette cut out in Montmartre several decades ago. A great memory for a cheap price.  The artist use only a pair os scissors and will cut a coloured sheet of paper in the shape of your profile. Great to bring back as a souvenir. But some of the artists are really pushy. Don’t hesitate to walk away if the person is too insistent.

Where ?  Place du Tertre – Paris 18 – Metro stop : Anvers or Abbesses

Lacroix210 – Get a book at Shakespeare and Company … with a stamp ! Get it stamped after purchase : the famous kilometer zero stamps inside the front cover.  You could buy a book of Poems by Jacques Prévert (“Paroles” for instance). Prévert, a so (!) Parisian poet or Apollinaire (very Parisian too !) who wrote « Sous le Pont Mirabeau » or a book by Hemingway, for instance « A moveable feast » (“Paris est une fête”) or a book by our beloved Colette, or “The little Prince” by Antoine de Saint Exupéry. And enjoy this beautiful old 16th century building and all the books at the same time !… Shakespeare and Company

Where ? : Shakespeare and Company, 37 rue de la Bucherie, Paris 5 – Metro stop : Saint Michel. Located nearby the Seine and Notre Dame. Oh ! … after getting your book, take the opportunity to have a break in their (tiny and great) tearoom which is nextdoor (great tea and a cheesecake I highly recommend !)

Lacroix211 – Soaps and perfumes at Oriza L. Legrand 

Oriza house was created in 1720 during the reign of Louis XV, Supplier of the Royal family and Queen Marie Antoinette ; The boutique is tiny and gorgeous. The old style packagings awsome. The old-style setting of this shop is gorgeous too. In this tiny shop, you’ll find soaps, perfumes/cologne

Where ? Oriza , 18 rue Saint Augustin, Paris 2ème Monday to Saturday 11am to 2pm – 3pm to 7 pm   Orizaparfums.com

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Les Parfums de Rosine

Lacroix212 – Les Parfums de Rosine. An old style and tiny shop focused on rose perfume. In the awesome setting of the Palais Royal garden.

Where ? Palais Royal garden – 105 Galerie de Valois – Paris 1 – http://www.les-parfums-de-rosine.com/index.php  Metro : Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre rosine.com

 

 

Lacroix213 – Bérets (Galeries Lafayette) –

Where : You can find a beret Made in France in the Galeries Lafayette, 6th floor, 40 boulevard Haussmann, Paris 9 – Metro Stop : Chaussée d’Antin – Other shops : Le Béret Français The numerous berets of “Le Beret Français”

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Lacroix214 – Aprons, tea towels, egg cups, trays… theme Paris – La Cocotte brand (Le Bon Marché) –  

Where ? : Some of the products are on sale at Le Bon Marché, 24 rue de Sèvres – Paris 6 – Metro Stop Sèvres Babylone-   https://www.lacocotteparis.com/fr/16-mugs-tasses La Cocotte Paris – 5 rue Paul Bert – Paris 11 www.lacocotteparis.comTorchon la Cocotte

Other nice brands of tea towels, apron, and others things for your home in Le Bon Marché or Galeries Lafayette gourmet maison 35, boulevard Haussmann, Paris 9 – Metro Stop : Chaussée d’Antin or Opéra

Note : the Galeries Lafayette gourmet maison (35 boulevard Haussmann) is for food and all what’s related to the home. It’s located in a different building from the main Galeries Lafayette department store (40 boulevard Haussmann)

Lacroix215 – A gift from Le Louvre – A wide range of products derived from the collections and exhibitions of the museum : jewelry, prints, stationery, postcards, posters, books, scarves…  and many more or reproductions of works. For instance the miniatures of the Venus de Milo or the Winged Victory

Le Louvre Venus de Milo

La Venus de Milo

Where ? Librairie Boutique du musée du Louvre – Under the Pyramide – Paris 1 – Metro Stop : Palais Royal Musée du Louvre 

Lacroix216 – Beauty products 

2 very popular shops for beauty products at discount prices : Citypharma and Pharmacie de la Place Monge. You’ll find in both places many brands including Caudalie and Nuxe, most of them at a discount price . But these places are often crowded ! No high fashion designer brands like Dior, YSL, Chanel…

Where ? : Citypharma, 26 rue du Four, Paris 6 (Saint Germain des Prés) – Metro Stop Saint Germain des Prés, Mabillon or Odeon //  Pharmacie de la Place Monge, 74 rue Monge – Paris 5 – (in the Latin Quarter). Metro stop Place Monge (line 7)

2 French iconic products : 

Caudalie beauty products (City Pharmacie or a Caudalie shop) One of their most popular product is the “Eau de beauté” . Where ? : CityPharma, Pharmacie de la Place Monge, or one of the Caudalie shops (Caudalie shop 80, rue des Saint Pères, Paris 7 (Saint Germain des Prés) In most Pharmacies too. 

or “L’Huile prodigieuse” by Nuxe : Another very popular and iconic French beauty Product is the “Huile Prodigieuse” by Nuxe – Where ? : CityPharma, Pharmacie de la Place Monge,  In most Pharmacies too. 

Lacroix217 – Theatre Comédie Française – In the building of the Comedie française, nice little shop and objects related to the theater. – boutique de la Comédie française21032018-IMG_2778

Where ? Place Colette – Paris 1 – Metro Stop : Palais Royal Musée du Louvre. Nearby the Palais Royal garden

An Other nice boutique : The  boutique of the Assemblée Nationale too (= our first assembly room) – boutique de l’Assemblée NationaleIMG_7073Where ? Boutique de l’Assemblée Nationale, 7 rue Aristide Briand, Paris 7 – Metro Stop : Assemblée Nationale

Lacroix2Fromage18 – Cheese :  Androuet is one of the oldest Cheese shop in Paris (since 1909) – 9 shops in Paris – In my opininon, a company on which you can rely . Great service and products. Several shops in Paris. Nice welcoming and knowledgeable staff and they provide vacuum packing to transport cheese home.

Where ? Androuet 38, rue Saint Louis en l’Ïle – Paris 4 (on Saint Louis Island), Androuet, 37 rue Verneuil, Paris 7 (In Saint Germain des Prés neighborhood) – More addresses of Androuet shops in Paris :  http://androuet.com/fromage-paris.html 

From the Assemblée Nationale – a nice shop

Lacroix219 – Ladurée gifts :

Nice gifts in Ladurée  : Key chains, shopping bags… and many more. And their famous macarons too.Capture d’écran 2018-03-26 à 15.22.31

Where ?  8 shops in Paris. Among them : Ladurée Champs Elysées, 75 avenue des Champs Elysées , Paris 8 – Ladurée Saint Germain des Prés, 21 rue Bonaparte, Paris 6, Ladurée web site

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Ladurée tea and beauty

And a new Ladurée Tea and beauty shop !!! : A quite new shop (opened about 1 year ago) entirely dedicated to teas, candles and home fragrances. : Ladurée Thé et Beauté, 232 rue de Rivoli, Paris 1 – A boutique located a hundred meters from Angelina, 

Where ? Ladurée Tea and beauty shop, 232, rue de Rivoli, Paris 1 – Metro Stop : Concorde or Tuileries, close to Angelina

 

Lacroix220Dernière-version-Format-original-9060146-2 – A life style photo session with Ann Jeanne  : details
Take home unique memories of your Paris stay !  A pleasant and fun moment. I focus on capturing emotions, and on telling your story in Paris.  More details : Photo session, photos and/or musical slideshow

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AJIP Private walking tours and photo sessions

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Ann Jeanne in Paris

Share my Paris, the Paris I love. I welcome you, I accompany you and we walk at your own pace.

Each tour includes a break in a Parisian cafe . It’s a cross-cultural experience,a way to see Paris in a Parisian perspective and to know more about Paris’ life and culture. 

Ann Jeanne in Paris’ private tours are designed for one or two persons. A friendly, authentic and personal way to experience Paris. I was born and raised in Paris. Paris is the city where I have always lived.

More details about Ann Jeanne Paris tours  – contact

And  : Some details about the booking and pricing

 

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21Feb

My 15 French films suggestion

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: Movies-Videos-Books
9 Comments
Illustration - My 15 Franch films suggestion

My 15 French films suggestion

(Films shot since 1990)

Introduction : This isn’t a list of the most renowned French films only. It’s a subjective list of 15 films I particularly liked or loved.

15 films shot since 1990 (I’ll post a list of French films shot before this date later). Some are funny, some aren’t. Some of them are very well known, some are less known.Illustration - My 15 Franch films suggestion

Films can be seen a great reflection of a country and watching French films can be a good way to get to know more about France and its culture.

… alike architecture, music and meeting French people, novels by French authors, French songs, French cooking books…and so on

Unfortunately, I know that one often think that French films are boring,…!!! This could be partly true and that’s what you might think and feel about some of the films of this list

As you know already, I am French. Thus, if you think that those films are boring , I must be very very French…!!! But I hope I’m not too boring…!!! Nevertheless I hope you’ll enjoy some of the films mentionned in this list

If you’ve already watched some of them or when you’ve seen some after reading this article, I’d enjoy hearing about your appreciation and your feelings

The films are ordered from earliest to latest.

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1 – La discrete (1990)  –  Comedy-Drama           

Director and co-author : Christian Vincent

Stars : Fabrice Luchini, Judith Henry

Antoine (the narrator and main character) has been duLa discrètemped by his girlfriend and has no inspiration for a next novel. In an attempt to find a solution, he decides to seduce a young woman with the singular purpose fo keeping a diary of the seduction and then break up before publishing the book about it. Unforttunately, he falls in love with her…

In my opinion ; No surprise I like this film… As its Director (Christian Vincent) is said to be an admirer of Eric Rohmer…And I especially like Eric Rohmer’s films (New Wave/Nouvelle vague)…   So this film may sound as special as Eric Rohmer’s films and for this reason you may not like this film… I love it for the atmosphere, for the acting by F Lucchini and Judith Henry, for the Paris’ background. One scene takes place in the famous “Café de la Mairie” at Place Saint Sulpice at Odeon/Saint Germain des Prés neighbourhood.

TRAILER IN FRENCH (…Sorry)

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2 – Nelly and Monsieur Arnaud (1995) – Drama

(Original title : Nelly et Monsieur Arnaud)

Director :  Claude Sautet

Stars : Nelly (Emmanuelle Béart), Monsieur Arnaud (Michel Serrault), Jean Jugues Anglade.

Music : Philippe Sarde
NellyNelly is married to Jerôme. She meets by chance M Arnaud, a mature and wealthy just retired businessman. She has fallen six months behind on the rent for the apartment in which she lives with her husband. Nelly type up Mister Arnaud’s memoirs. Nelly thus learns more about Mr Arnaud’s life. Begins a strange and special relationship between the two personalities.

 

Notes : It won the César award for best director and best actor from Michel Serrault. A film to be watched for the great French director (Claude Sautet) and Michel Serrault and Emmanuelle Beart’s excellent performance. A subtle film which explores many emotions.

One of my most favorite films. And Michel Serrault and Claude Sautet have a special place in my heart

 TRAILER IN FRENCH (Sorry… !)

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3 – Family resemblance (1996) – comedy

Un air de famille(Original title : Un air de famille)

Director : Cédric Klapisch 

Stars : Jean-Pierre Bacri, Jean-Pierre Darroussin, Agnes Jaoui, Catherine Frot

An upper middle-class French family celebrates a birthday in a restaurant . One evening family history, tensions, and memories clash

Notes : The film won the Cesar award for best writing, best supporting actor and best supporting actress. In this film, scathing phrases and situations..

 TRAILER IN FRENCH (Sorry… !)

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4 – Marius and Jeannette (1997) – Comedy-Drama-Romance

  (Original title : Marius et Jeannette)

Director : Robert Guédiguian

Stars : Ariane Ascaride, Gérard Meylan, Pascale Roberts

Marius and JeannetteMarius is the keeper of an abandoned cement works in the quarter of l’Estaque in Marseilles. Jeannette is bringing up her two children alone with her poor checkout operator salary. Their meeting won’t be without trouble, since besides material difficulties, both of them are wounded by life. They have to learn how to be happy again.

Notes : A feel good movie. poetic and very touching. A mix of love story, family drama and comedy, joy,  tears and emotion. The film won the César award for best actress, best supporting actor and Best supporting actress,

 TRAILER IN FRENCH (Sorry… !)

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5 – Amelie (2001) – Comedy-Romance

(Original title  = Le fabuleux destin d’Amélie Poulain)

Director : Jean Pierre Jeunet

Stars : Audrey Tautou, Mathieu Kassovitz, Rufus

Music : Yann Tiersen (Original main theme : “La valse d’Amélie)

AmeieAmelie, a young girl in Paris, resort to her own fantastical world and dreams of love and beauty . She decides to devote her life to the people around her, such as, her father who is obsessed with his garden-gnome, a failed writer, a hypochondriac, the love of her life and a man whose bones are as brittle as glass. But after consuming herself with these escapades – she finds out that she is disregarding her own life and damaging her quest for love.

Notes : A great film worth to be seen, notably for the setting in Montmartre and the music. Most of the locations in the film can be found in Montmartre. The main colors in the film are inspired by the paintings of the Brazilian artist Juarez Machado. It was in 1974 that Jean-Pierre Jeunet began collecting the memories and events that make up the story of Amélie. The part of Amélie was written specifically for Emily Watson, but she had to decine because she didn’t speak French and had already agreed to be in Gosford Park (2001)

TRAILER : SUBTITLES IN ENGLISH

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6 – The Girl from Paris (2001) – Comedy-Drama

(Original title : Une hirondelle a fait le printemps)

Director : Christian Carion

Stars : Adrien (Michel Serrault), Sandrine (Mathilde Seigner) 

The girl from ParisSandrine, a young Parisian woman, tired of her life in Paris, decides to leave her work in computers and become a farmer. She buys an isolated farm from Adrien, an old farmer who decides it’s time to retire. However, Adrien wants to stay a few more months before moving away from the farm, and the rough winter finds them together… Adrien ‘s arrangement with Sandrine allows him to remain on the farm for 18 months. She is too self-confident to require much help and he is more interested in waiting around for her to fail than offering help. But gradually, they become friends…

Notes : This film is worth seeing for the beauty of the setting  ( in the Vercors region of France) and the wonderful performance of Mathilde Seigner and Michel Serrault (the grouchy old peasant). Great actors and touching characters.

TRAILER IN FRENCH (Sorry… !)

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7 – 8 women (2002) – Comedy, drama, mystery and Suspense  

(Original title :  8 femmes)

Director : François Ozon

Stars : Fanny Ardant, Emmanuelle béart, Danielle Darrieux, Catherine Deveneuve, Isabelle Huppert…

8-women-8-femmes.66999At an isolated mansion in the snowy countryside of 1950s France, a family is gathered for the holiday season. But their beloved patriarch has been murdered. The killer  can only be one of the eight women . One murdered man, eight women, each seeming to be eager than the others to know the truth.

Notes : An entertaining film with 8 famous French Actresses. The film is filled with references to beloved classics. With a special like for the scene with Fanny Ardant (signing “A quoi sert de vivre libre” ) which pay homage to Rita Hayworth in Gilda. Fanny Ardant among my best favorite actresses. A part of the film is sung, but not a real musical

Below : “A quoi sert de vivre libre”  by actress Fanny Ardant

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8 – OSS 117, Cairo, nest of spies (2006) – Comedy-Adventure

(Original title  : OSS 117, Le Caire, nid d’espions)

DirectoOSS 117r : Michel Hazanavicius

Stars : Jean Dujardin

It’s 1955 and after a fellow agent and close friend disappears, secret agent Hubert Bonisseur de la Bath, a.k.a. OSS 117, is ordered to take his place at the head of a poultry firm in Cairo. This is to be his cover while he is busy investigating, foiling Nazi holdouts, quelling a fundamentalist rebellion, and bedding local beauties.

Notes : An homage to classic spy films. Entertaining/funny. Jean Dujardin is the actor who played in “The artist”

TRAILER IN FRENCH (Sorry… !)

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9 – The neighbor (2007) – Comedy Romance

the neighborDirector : Eddie O’Flaherty

Stars : Matthew Modine, Michèle Laroque, Katie Walder 
A guy whose life is in turmoil falls for an attractive real estate broker who moves into the condo next door, but soeisn’t realize that she expects him to move out for her planned renovation.

Notes : Really entertaining. Not a French film but a remake of a French film. Nevertheless, I included it in this list because of the irresistible Michelle Laroque, French actress, who was playing in the original French version too.Though I prefer much more the French version with M Laroque and Richard Berry (It was a telefilm). Great for Michelle Laroque, definitly one of my most favorite actress

 

TRAILER IN ENGLISH

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10 – 2 days in Paris (2007) – Comedy 

2 days in ParisDirector : Julie Delpy

Stars : Julie Delpy, Adam Goldberg, Daniel Brühl

A New York based couple,  Marion and Jack attempt to re-infuse their relationship with romance by taking a vacation in Europe. Their trip to Venice didn’t really work out. They have higher hopes for Paris. But the combination of Marion’s overbearing non-English speaking parents’,her ex-boyfriends’, and Jack’s obsession with photographing don’t make things easy.

Notes : The characters of Marion’s parents are played by Delpy’s real life parents. Julie Delpy is French, but one of the most American “French Director ” !

 

TRAILER IN ENGLISH

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11 – The wedding cake (2019) – Comedy-Romance 

(Original title  : Pièce montée)

Piece montee-image.eventnodeDirector : Denys Granier-Deferre

Stars : Clémence Poésy, Danielle Darrieux

Vincent and Bérengère are getting married on a beautiful spring day in the French countryside, in the style of the Haute bourgeoisie. But a chain of events threatens to bring down a family façade which has been cultivated over the past few decades.

Notes : An entertaining and touching film. And the last film of Danielle Darrieux, a wonderful French actress

TRAILER IN FRENCH (sorry…!)

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12 – The women on the 6th floor (2010) – Comedy

(Original title  : Les femmes du 6ème étage)

Director : Philippe Le Guay

Stars : Fabrice Luchini, Sandrine Kiberlain

Les Femmes du 6ème étageParis 1960s. A conservative French couple’s lives are turned upside down by two spanish maids who work in their apartment building. Mr Joubert is an unadventurous stockbroker who befriends  a group of Spanish maids who live on the top floor of his building and live the life of the poor.  Then he discovers that there is a whole other world he never knew existed, . Slowly he recovers his joie de vivre by tasting life ‘s simple pleasures . He becomes increasingly involved with the problems of the Spanish women working improving their lot while causing friction at home.

Notes : A light-hearted and amusing comedy of worlds colliding. It focuses on Jean louis transformation. Fabrice Luchini is terrific

 

SUBTITLES IN ENGLISH

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13 – The intouchables (2011) – Comedy-Drama

(Original title  : Les intouchables)

IntouchablesDirector : Olivier Nakache and Eric Toledano

Stars : François Cluzet, Omar Sy

After he becomes a quadriplegic from a pargliding accident, an aristocrat hires a young man to be his caregiver

Notes : The second giiggest box office hit in France, The film has received several award nominations i. In France, the film won the César Award for Best actor for Omar Sy. Nominated for a golden Globe. The plot is inspired by the true story of Philoppe Pozzo

SUBTITLES  IN ENGLISH

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14 – Delicacy (2011) – Romantic-Comedy-Drama

(Original title  : La délicatesse)

DelicacyDirector : David Foenkinos and Stéphane Foenkinos 

Stars : Audrey Tautou, François Damien

Music : Emilie Simon ‘Something more”

A romantic comedy about love. Nathalie, a beautiful, happy and successful Parisian business executive woman finds herself suddently widowed… To cope with her loss, she buries herself and her emotions in her work but one day, inexplicably, she meets a seemingly unexceptional, gauche and average looking subordinate, Markus…

Notes : the film is based on “La delicatesse”  a book by David Foenkinos

TRAILER IN ENGLISH

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15 – What’s in a name (2012) – Comedy-Drama

(Original title  : Le Prénom)

What's in a nameDirector : Matthieu Delaporte, Alexandre de la Patellière 

Stars : Patrick Bruel, Valérie Benguigui, Charles Berling… 

Vincent is about to become a father. At a meeting with childhood friends (In an upper-middle-class apartment in Paris), he reveals the name for his future son. Everyone at the dinner is speechless…The situation eventually gets out of hand, when no one can come to an understanding, and everyone starts unearthing old rivalries and unspoken issues.

Notes : Patrick Bruel is a very famous French singer too.

 

SUBTITLES  IN ENGLISH

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AJIP Private walking tours and photo sessions

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Ann Jeanne in Paris

Share my Paris, the Paris I love. I welcome you, I accompany you and we walk at your pace. I’ll be delighted to be your friend in Paris ! Half a day or a whole day with a native including a break in a very Parisian cafe. It’s a cross cultural experience and a way to see Paris in a Parisian perspective. A way to know more about Paris’ life and culture. Don’t hesitate to contact me !

Ann Jeanne in Paris’ private tours are designed for one or two persons. A friendly, authentic and personal way to experience Paris. I was born and raised in Paris. Paris is the city where I live.

More details about Ann Jeanne Paris tours Don’t hesitate to Contact me

And  : Some details about the booking and pricing

 Looking forward to see you !

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9Oct

MONTMARTRE at NIGHT

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: My Paris VIDEOS
2 Comments
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Follow me in Montmartre village !

And maybe in person on your next visit to Paris… ! 

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The Sacré Coeur of Montmartre

I am a native who loves her city. I’d be delighted to welcome you in person and share my Montmartre with you, off the beaten track, discovering all the best spots of the village often missed by visitors and the most famous spots of the village too (Place du Tertre and the Sacré Coeur)
Book you private visit, for you only !

Don’t hesitate to contact me

More details about Ann Jeanne Paris tours

Please, keep an eye on this page : The next videos filmed in Montmartre at night will be added to this page (except the Iphone live videos because of their lower quality)

(more…)

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28Sep

Montparnasse cemetery

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: Non classé Places
7 Comments
Bartholdi

Montparnasse cemetery,  the final resting place of many artists and illustrious personalities.

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The grave featuring Mr and Mrs Pigeon lying on their bed

After WWI, just after the heyday of Montmartre (and before the Saint Germain des Prés one) and for a few decades, Montparnasse was the home and favorite haunt of many writers and artists : Picasso, Soutine,Man Ray,Sartre,Simone de Beauvoir, Hemingway, Foujita, Zadkine, Brancusi,Amadeo Modigliani, Samuel Beckett, Fitzgerald just to name a few27092017-IMG_9992

 

Artists came from all over the world and Montparnasse was the capital of the avant-garde, the heart of the artistic and intellectual Parisian life.

This neighborhood has changed but you can still go to the same iconic cafés, brasseries where all these artists and writers used to go, you’ll see beautiful building façades of the old time, the homes of some of these artists, the old art supplies shops and art academies, and you’ll feel the spirit of the Roaring 20s and of the following decades. Personally, this is my favorite Paris neighborhood (with Saint Germain des Prés)

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Montparnasse cemetery is the final resting place of many of these artists. Man Ray, Soutine, Zatkine, Brancusi, Brassaï, Bourdelle … It’s also the cemetery where you’ll see the graves of Jean Seberg, Serge Gainsbourg, Marguerite Duras, Susan Sontag, César (the sculptor), Brassaï, Baudelaire, Guy de Maupassant, Bartholdi, Camille Saint Saens, Samuel Beckett, Eugène Ionesco, Constantin Brancusi Some of them were the illustrious residents of Montparnasse. Graves of writers, poets, artists, filmmakers, politicians, actors, publishers, patrons of industry…  Many graves of foreigners who have made France their home.

You’ll see unusual graves too, some with great funerary art (Niki de Saint Phalle, Tinguely, Cesar…)

Auguste Bartholdi's grave

Auguste Bartholdi’s grave

A huge but beautiful and peaceful : 

You can spend a few hours in Montparnasse cemetery, walking through the lanes. This place is worth a visit. It’s a huge cemetery (47 acres – 19 hectares, with about 40 000 graves, 750 trees and bushes), very peaceful with some fascinating graves. It’s divided into 2 cemeteries separated by a street  (rue Emile Richard) : on one side, the “grand cimetière” and on the other side,  the “Petit cimetière” . Btw : The main difference with Père Lachaise is that Montparnasse cemetery is flat. No slopes. Thus, you may find Montparnasse cemetery is less charming than the Père Lachaise, but It still a beautiful place with great funerary art work and great personalities’ graves

But the graves are tightly packed. Even though you’ll find a plan of the cemetery at the entrance to help you find the graves it’s quite difficult to get around and find some graves you want to see, .

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Don’t hesitate to contact me. I can accompany you and help you find the graves you’re interested in (This walk can be added or included in the Montparnasse of the Roaring 20’s’ walking tour). More details about Ann Jeanne Paris tours and  Some details about the booking and pricing 

My personal link with Montparnasse cemetery : This is the final resting place of my father. Also where my piano teacher, who taught me (private lessons) the piano since I was 8 to the age of 22, rest. So to me, this cemetery is not like the others… And … it’s nearby my home and in neighborhood I particularly love. 

Some History :  The cemetery opened in 1824. after the cemeteries closer to the center of Paris, Moulin de la Charitéwere banned owing to sanitary problems. In the early 19th century Montmartre, the Père Lachaise and the Montparnasse cemetery replaced some small ones.

Before being a cemetery, the land of Montparnasse cemetery belonged to a religious community. There was a monastery on the place and an old flour mill. It became national property at the French Revolution (from 1789). The Monastery was pulled down, but the windmill, “Le Moulin de la Charité” was kept.

Practical details : Montparnasse cemetery : 3 boulevard Edgard Quinet – Paris 14  Metro stop : Edgard Quinet or Raspail. Main entrance : Boulevard Edgar Quinet – Opening Hours : March to November : 8.30 to 6pm (Sunday : 9am) November to March : 8 to 5.30pm (Sunday : 9am)

Unusual Gravestones : 

Le Chat : A polychrome cat by Niki de Saint Phalle. A 1,50 m tall masaic representing a cat for the tomb of her friend RicardoLe Chat by Nikki de Saint Phalle

L’Oiseau : a birdman by Niki de Saint PhalleL'oiseau

The statue of the “Génie du Sommeil Eternel” (Eternal Sleep) by the sculptor Horace Daillion in the center of the cemetary14092017-IMG_9758

Le Baiser : by the Romanian sculptor Constantin Brancusi

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Sculpture by Brancusi (“The Kiss”)

Pigeon Charles’s grave (1838 – 1915) : French inventor of a non-exploding gas lamp. Born in France in Normandy. A life size figures of Mr and Mrs Pigeon (fully clothed) lying in a bed. The bed forms the grave . 

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The grave features Mr and Mrs Pigeon long on their bed

Some of the illustrious personalities (buried in Montparnasse cemetery) : 

Baudelaire (1821 – 1867): French poet born in Paris where he lived most of his life.  buried with his mother and step-father. Also a cenothaph dedicated to the poet.

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Baudelaire’s grave

Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre :  leading figures of the Existentialist literary movement are buried together. Simone de Beauvoir (1907 – 1986) was a French writer, philosopher, and feminist. Best known for her work “The second Sex” (1949) which contained detailed analysis of women’s oppression. Jean Paul Sartre (1905 – 1980) was French writer, philosopher and critic. Best known for his writing : “Being and Nothingness”. He believed in the fundamental freedom of human beings and reflected ont the unbearable nature of that freedom. Major works : Nausea, Being and Nothingness (1943), the Words (1964)

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Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir’s grave

Susan Sontag (1933 – 2004) : American author born in Manhattan. One of her more famous books was “Illness as Metaphor” (1978)08092017-IMG_9722

 

Chaïm Soutine (1893 – 1943) : Painter, born in Lithuania. He moved to Paris in 1911 and settled in Montparnasse district; He became famous after years of poverty in 1823 when Paul Barnes, a wealthy American cnollector bought 60 of his paintings at once. . He became known for his portraits of working-class people, still lifes and landscapes. As a Jew, at the start of WWII, he fled the Nazi occupation of France

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Chaïm Soutine

Zadkine Ossip (1890 – 1967): Russian-born sculptor. There is a Museum dedicated to Zadkine’s work of art located in Montparnasse. This was the house and workshop where Ossip Zadkine major figure in the School of Paris, lived and worked from 1928 to 1967.  Zadkine Museum: 100 bis rue d’Assas – Paris 6

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Man Ray (1890 – 1976) : Artist born in USA especially known as a photographer. He is acknowledged as one of the masters of the 20th century. He moved to Paris in 1921. He immortalized in many famous photographs the model Kiki de Montparnasse with who. In 1940 Ray fled the Nazi invasion and went to California. He returned to Paris in 1951

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Man Ray

Marguerite Duras (1914 – 1996) :  French writer and film director, best known for her novel “The lover” (Prix Goncourt – 1984), which was made into a movie.

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Marguerite Duras

Guy de Maupassant (1850 – 1893) :  French writer. He is considered one of the world’s great short-story writers. He wrote novels too. One of the best known : “Bel Ami”21092017-IMG_9922

Samuel Beckett (1906 – 1989): Irish Author, Playwright. novelist who spent most of his life in Paris (Paris 14), from 1937 and wrote in French after 1945 His best known work is the play “Waiting for Godot”08092017-IMG_9724

Ionesco Eugène (1912 – 1994) : French playwright. Known for his contribution to the theater of the absiurd. Two of his plays are  shown at the Theatre de la Huchette in Paris since 1957 without any interruption !. (“The Bald Soprano” and “The lesson”)

Antoine Bourdelle : (1861 – 1929) : French sculptor. One of the Pioneers of 20th century monumental sculpture. His home and studio where Antoine Bourdelle has been working from 1885 to 1929 is located 19 rue Antoine Bourdelle – Paris 15, and can be visited. 27092017-IMG_0017

Constantin Brancusi : (1876 – 1957) : Romanian sculptor, painter and photographer who made his career in France. He is considered as a pioneer of modernism and one of the most influential sculptors of the 20th-century, 14092017-IMG_9780

Brassaï (1899 – 1984) : Hungarian photojournalist, portraitist. He moved to Paris in 1918 and fell in love with the city. Hi is renowned for his photographic chronicles of the night.08092017-IMG_9720

Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi (1834 – 1904) : French sculptor most renowned for the Statue of Liberty. He designed his own grave.27092017-IMG_9994

César Baldaccini (1921 – 1998) : French sculptor, better known simply as César. He was at the forefront of the  Nouveau Réalisme movement with his radical compressions (compacted automobiles, discarded metal, or rubbish), expansions (polyurethane foam sculptures), and fantastic representations of animals and insects.14092017-IMG_9762

Camille Saint Saëns, (1835 – 1921) : composer, leading representative of French Romantic music. His most popular piece is “The Carnival of the Animals” (1886)

Jacques demy, Eric Rohmer, Claude Sautet, filmmakers

Serge gainsbourg (1928 – 1991) : Songwriter, singer and film maker : one of the most visited graves in Montparnasse. His grave is often covered with different objects which are references to some of his songs : a cabbage (for his LP called “L’homme à la tête de chou”, a metro ticket for his song called “Le Poinçonneur des Lilas”, or cigarettes’ buts because he was smoking a lot and also wrote a song called “Dieu est un fumeur de Havane”.14092017-IMG_9756

Jean Seberg, (1938 – 1979) :  American actress who played in “Breathless” (1959) (director Jean-Luc Godard). 27092017-IMG_0005

(MORE PHOTOS OF MONTPARNASSE CEMETERY AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS PAGE )

 

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Even with the help of a map, it’s quite difficult to find the graves you’re looking for. Don’t hesitate to contact me : A visit of Montparnasse cemetery can be included (or added) in the Montparnasse walking tour (= “The Roaring 20’s ) Share my Paris, the Paris I love. I welcome you, I accompany you and we walk at your pace. Half a day or a whole day with a native including a break in a very Parisian cafe. It’s a cross cultural experience in Paris and a way to see Paris in a Parisian perspective.

Ann Jeanne in Paris’ private tours are designed for one or two persons. A friendly and personal experience of Paris. I was born and raised in Paris. Paris is city where I live.

 

More details about Ann Jeanne Paris tours Don’t hesitate to contact me

And  : Some details about the booking and pricing 

profil-paris-avec-oiseaux

More photos of Montparnasse Cemetery

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27092017-IMG_999927092017-IMG_999527092017-IMG_998927092017-IMG_0016Bartholdi

Practical details : Montparnasse cemetery : 3 boulevard Edgard Quinet – Paris 14  Metro stop : Edgard Quinet or Raspail. Main entrance : Boulevard Edgar Quinet – Opening Hours : March to November : 8.30 to 6pm (Sunday : 9am) November to March : 8 to 5.30pm (Sunday : 9am) profil-paris-avec-oiseaux

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1Aug

The “other” Latin Quarter

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: Non classé Paris Neighborhoods Tours
10 Comments
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THE SOUTH EAST OF THE LATIN QUARTER : the Latin Quarter OFF THE BEATEN TRACK…where Parisians love to go, where visitors rarely go…

“We did the hidden Latin Quarter tour. Cannot praise Ann Jeanne enough. Passionate with great knowledge. Very easy to talk to. Even though we had been to Paris many times we learnt so much. Would highly recommend these tours. Thank you for your time Ann Jeanne”  – Warren Greg Tania Dave

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If you like wandering off the beaten track and explore quaint neighborhoods, you’ll probably enjoy this neighborhood that has a very special place in my heart and you will see what visitors in Paris often miss.  

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Hadley and Ernest Hemingway in 1922 – It’s where they both used to live and go shopping –

The South East of the Latin Quarter that many travel websites and travel guides don’t mention. Though : 17th century facades, one of the most favourite market of the Left bank Parisians, high quality food and shops, remains of the Roman time, amazing doors…and among Hemingway’s most favorite Paris’neighborhoods. We’ll walk his favorite streets, and will see his home and the cafe he used to enjoy the most in this area

In the Snows of Kilimanjaro (E. Hemingway), Harry, the character wrote regarding this South East part of the Latin Quarter : “…There never was another part of Paris that he loved like that, the sprawling trees, the old white plastered houses painted brown below, the long treen of the autobus in that round square, the sudden drop down the hill of the rue Cardinal Lemoine to the River …”

This Latin Quarter :  often missed by visitors, though a great history and a very Parisian charm30072017-P7300180-4

It’s an area preserved, with a feel of the old times with its narrow paved streets, its markets, its old fountain and many more special places. And it has a special place in my heart, a place that I would enjoy to share with you : this neighborhood is the neighborhood/village where my grandmother was living and used to go shopping from the 30s to the 80s, where my mother has been raised and where my parents got married.30072017-P7300162-4

Location :

Located on the left bank of the river Seine, it’s the South-East part of the Latin Quarter, a part largely untouched by the Haussman huge renovation. Between the Pantheon and the Boulevard Port Royal. The South half part of the red zone on the map belowparis-5th-latin-quarter

One of the oldest part of Paris : 

This neighborhood has an amazing history and it’s also one of the oldest part of Paris. It was first built during the Roman time about 2000 years ago and the area still conserves Roman ruins. During the Middle Age, it was a very lively village. This part of Paris was annexed to Paris in 1724.  Nowadays it’s one of the most beloved part of ParisDSC_2036

30072017-P7300162-1Paths dating back to Roman time (paths from about 2000 years ago) walk the streets with old painted signs reminder of past times, and building facades dating back to the 17th centuryDSC_2111

Previously a Medieval Market street : During the Private tour I’ll designed for you, we’ll browse a market street (Mouffetard street) whose origin is probably 1350AD, possibly earlier, a wonderful market street with quality food places (vegetables, fruits, cheese, pastries, wine cellars, fresh breads and much more).30072017-P7300161-6

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This was among Hemingway’s most favorite districts when he was living in Paris

We’ll stroll the pretty side streets with 17th century facades, old doors, an old fountain, 5 century old church, restaurants with outdoor tables, and sometimes musicians playing in the street. We’ll stop for coffee at a classic old and peaceful square… (Why not where Hemingway’ cafe was ?)…And we will see some of Hemingway‘s favorite haunts including the place where he has been living several years with Adley.

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  • A break at the Lutetia Arenas , one of the most important remains of Lutetia (Paris was known then as Lutetia) from Gallo-Roman time. These arenas restored are dating back to the 1st century AD and were a Roman amphitheater. The exact place were gladiators were fighting with lions about 2000 years ago. And in the 20th century it was one of  my mother and uncle’s favorite ‘s playgrounds ! Nowadays, it’s still a favorite playground for neighborhood kids. A visit in the Lutetia Arena can be included in the private tour0_4200_84_2716_two_Pantheon_Woodson_009Arènes_de_Lutèce,_Paris_15_August_2013_007
  • A visit to a 13th Cistercian building : The College des Bernardins (click on the link for more detail about this building). A visit of The College des Bernardins can be included in our private tour22032017-IMG_6189
  • a visit to a 17th century royal garden : Le  Jardin des Plantes (click on the link for more detail about this building), which is the first French botanical garden, and a visit of the tropical greenhouses located in this garden . This garden was one of the place where my grand mother loved to take me when I was a child. A walk in the Jardin des Plantes and a visit of the Greenhouses can be included in your private tour. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
  • A visit and a mint tea at the gorgeous white Grande Mosquée de paris with it’s impressive minaret
  • a visit to the rooftop of the Institut du Monde Arabe to enjoy a breathtaking view over the City Island (center of Paris where Notre Dame is located) can be included in your private tour

Please be aware that the Latin Quarter and Saint Germain des Prés are distinct neighborhoods ! Please, be aware that many English websites, even the most renown websites and reviewers, make a confusion between the Latin Quarter and Saint Germain des Prés; Saint Germain des Prés is a wonderful neighborhood (probably among my favorite neighborhoods, the neighborhood where I’d love to live if my current neighborhood didn’t exist… and if I had much more money too !) but Saint Germain des Prés is not the Latin Quarter. 2 different neighborhoods, 2 different atmospheres and feels. and 2 very different histories…

(MORE PHOTOS OF THE SOUTH-EAST OF THE LATIN QUARTER AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS PAGE )

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A few words about Ann Jeanne Private walks

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Share my Paris, the Paris I love. I welcome you, I accompany you and we walk at your pace. Half a day or a whole day with a native including a break in a very Parisian cafe. It’s a cross cultural experience in Paris and a way to see Paris in a Parisian perspective.

Ann Jeanne in Paris’ private tours are designed for one or two persons for a friendly and personal experience of Paris. I was born and raised in Paris. And Paris is city where I live.

More details about Ann Jeanne Paris tours Don’t hesitate to contact me

And  : Some details about the booking and pricing :

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More photos of the South-East part of the Latin Quarter

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1Jul

DALIDA, a French icon

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: Movies-Videos-Books Non classé People
3 Comments
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07ba53b055c4d55b28e23b21b1435DALIDA , A DIVA and A FASHION ICON (1933 – 1987)

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Dalida was a famous singer from the 60s to the 80s and an icon. Still now. Her success was huge and Dalida has had and still has great great fans in France (and also abroad). One of the main squares in Montmartre has been named after her.  For many, Dalida is a myth, a legend, a diva. She received more than 70 gold records. She sold more than 170 million albums worldwide. However her private life has often been tragic. 

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“I know what my life is. My husband it’s my public. The songs are my children”

MAJOR EXHIBITION at GALLIERA : April 27 to August 13 2017

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Galliera Palace devotes a major exhibition to Dalida to mark the 30th anniversary of her death. Her wardrobe is exposed at the Palais from  April 27 to August 13  2017. Dalida loved fashion from Christain Dior, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Lacroix, Azzaro and many more. She was sophisticated, glamourous. 17062017-P6170247-2

Palais Galliera 10 avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie – Paris 16 – from April to August 13th 2017. For more details about the Palais Galliera, please read my article too : Galliera, fashion and elegance

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MY VIDEO OF DALIDA EXHIBITION AT GALLIERA : Please watch this video of the exhibition in Galliera (a video by Ann Jeanne in Paris) :

A FILM : “DALIDA” (released in January 2017)

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In 2017, Lisa Azuelos, (daughter of famous French singer, Marie Laforêt), directed the film Dalida, starring Riccardo Scamarcio, Vincent Perez, Niels Schneider, Jean-Paul Rouve, Patrick Timsit and Sveva Alviti who portrayed Dalida.

The trailer : 

Below, a video about the film

DALIDA IN MONTMARTRE (PARIS)

Dalida has been living for 25 years in Montmartre, 11 bis rue d’Orchampt – from 1962 to 1987.She bought a townhouse in the 1900 style in Montmartre at the beginning of the 80s, nearby the Sacré Coeur. It has always be a quiet refuge for Dalida for the rest of her life.

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One of the main squares in Montmartre has been named after her  “Place Dalida” with a bronze statue of her bust (sculptor Alain Alsan)

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Place Dalida avec statue

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Dalida in Montmartre, nearby her home

Dalida rests near her home in the upper part of the cemetery of Montmartre with the trees she loved.

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A few WORDS about DALIDA’s STORY 

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EGYPT

Dalida was born Yolanda Gigliotti on the 17th of January 1933 in Cairo suburbs in a bourgeois emigrant family. Her italian grand- parents had emigrated to Egypt in the beginning of the 20th century.

She had 2 brothers, Orlando (her elder brother) and Bruno and she grew up in a musical environment : her father was  first violonist for the Cairo Opera. Dalida’s mother tongue was Italian. But she learned Egyptian Arabic and French in Cairo. She had a happy childhood, though serious eye problems affected her from an early age and had to undergo several operations.Dalida1954

She was destined by her family for a career as a secretary, but Dalida dreamed of becoming and actress. She was fascinated by Hollywood world . In 1951 she secretly entered a local beauty contest. In 1954, Yolanda entered another beauty contest, “Miss Egypt contest” and she was crowned Miss Egypt at the age of 19. Then, she started working as a model, then as an actress in Cairo. Then she began to dream of launching a career in Paris.

PARIS :

Mort de Lucien en 1970

With Lucien Morisse, her first husband

In 1954, she started a new life in Paris where she became Dalida. She started taking singing lessons with a music teacher and after a few months her teacher sent her off to audition for a cabaret on the Champs Elysées where she worked during several months.

She then was invited by the owner of Olympia (one of the most famous Parisian music-Hall) onto a show. Her performance impressed two influential men in the French record industry, Lucien Morisse and Eddy Barclay. Lucien Morisse became Dalida ‘s manager, then her husband (A difficult relationship : Lucien Morisse was married but finally divorced . They got married in Paris in 1961).

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Dalida and Lucien Morisse, her first husband and her manager

BAMBINO’s YEARS

Her second single, “Bambino” really launched Dalida to fame. Bambino was played practically non-stop on one of the most renown French radio (Europe 1) and reached the top of the French charts. She then performed at the Olympia beside Charles Aznavour.  In 1957, she received her first gold disc. Bambino had sold over 300 000 copies

Her second very successful hit was “Gondolier” (in 1957). She then started a great tour. In 1959, she went on another tour in Italy. Her fame soon spread throughout the rest of Europe. In 1961, she performed for an entire month at the prestigious Olympia music-hall attracting over 2000 music fans each night. She then carried out with a tour which took her to Hong Kong and Vietnam (where she was already a huge star)

Her  younger brother, Bruno (known as Orlando) became her manager. And her cousin Rosy became her secretary.

Dalida and Luigi tenco

Dalida and Luigi Tenco

LUIGI TENCO

In 1966, she was introduced to a young talented songwriter. They fell passionately in love. They soon got married. Dalida decided that Luigi should appear with her on stage in Italy during a song contest and that they would each perform their own version of the song “Ciao Amore Ciao”. Dalida was already a huge star in Italy while Luigi Tenco was not known yet. Neither Dalida nor Luigi were awarded a prize. Luigi Tenco then retired to his hotel room and committed suicide in his room. Dalida was devastated at Luigi’s death and a few months later she  attempted to end her life.

Below : Dalida singing with Luigi Tenco in 1967 at San Remo (Italy)

AFTER LUIGI

In the late 60’s, after Luigi Tenco’s death, Dalida reinvented herself : she started to read a lot : philosophy, psychology and started to practice yoga and meditation. She often went to India then went into analysis. But she also carried on singing and went on a serie of concerts in France, in Italy, then all over the world

In 1970, her huge hit was “Darla dirladada”. Then with the song “Avec le temps”,  she totally changed her repertoire with very meaningful poetic lyrics. She performed at the Olympia for 3 weeks where she was greeted very successfully

In September 1970, her former husband, Lucien Morisse committed suicide. 48b1b05dcc2564c689832f2ada0b9669

Duet with ALAIN DELON

In 1972, she recorded “Paroles Paroles” with her old friend Alain Delon It reached the top of the French charts and was n°1 in Japan.

Alain Delon et Dalida enregistrant la chanson 'Paroles, Paroles' en 1973 . (Photo by Jean-Pierre BONNOTTE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

Alain Delon et Dalida recording the song  ‘Paroles, Paroles’ en 1973 . (Photo by Jean-Pierre BONNOTTE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

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Dalida and Alain Delon, rue d’Orchampt where Dalida used to live

HER LOVE STORY WITH RICHARD CHANFRAY

Dalida avec son compagnon Richard Anfray (dit le comte de Saint-Germain) à Saint-Tropez en 1978.

Dallied and Richard Chanfray

Her encounter with Richard Chanfray in 1972  (who wanted to be known as the Count of Saint Germain) changed her life.  And she appeared to be a glamourous star. It has been her longest love story (9 years) 

MF - dalida-1èmaxresdefaultIn 1973, she sang “Il venait d’avoir 18 ans”.  This song reached immediately the top of the charts in 9 countries. 3.5 million copies sold in Germany.My favorite song of Dalida is definitely, without any doubt : “Il venait d’avoir 18 ans”

In 1974 : “Gigi L’Amoroso” which became among the most famous hit of Dalida, n°1 in 12 countries. Then she went on tours in Japan,  Quebec, then Germany . In 1975, she was awarded the prestigious Prix de l’Académie du Disque français”. Then another huge success “J’attendrai”. She was performing very frequently on French TV and she returned several times to Egypt.

She recorded  the traditional Egyptian song Salma Ya Salama which was released in France and the Middle East. She recorded this song in 7 languages.  It was a phenomenal success.

diapositiva_169.jpgThe 80’s

She recorded “Generation 78”, a medley very influenced by the 70’s disco wave. She has been adapting her musical style to the latest trends. In 1979, She recorded “Monday Tuesday”Dalida-ses-plus-grands-succes

 

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Dalida performing at the “Palais des Sports” (Paris)

Dalida transformed her appearance. She danced sourrounded by dancers. In 1980, he performed a spectacular Broadway-style show in Paris at the Palais des Sports with Lester Wilson as her choreographer, (L. Wilson was the choreographer of John Travolta in Saturday night fever)r.   She sold out at the Palais des Sports for 18 gigantic shows with 30 musicians and 12 dancers. She was the first woman to perform in front of 5000 people in Paris. She then went on a national tour which lasted 10 months.

DALIDA "ASLAN PHOTOGRAPHE" FRANCE RETRO "DALIDA SEUL" "SCENE ATTITUDE" "CHANTANT ATTITUDE" "IMAGE NUMERISEE" "PLATEAU T.V."

Dalida at the Palais des Sports in 1980

In 1981 she split from Richard Chanfray.

On her premiere at the Olympia where she performed in 1981, she received a diamond disc for having sold over 80 million albums over her career.  Dalida et François Mitterrand en 1975 - SipaBelow : “Monday, tuesday”, a great hit

She then set off on another world tour for 12 months. When back to France, she recorded “Mourir sur scène”. Her popularity was as great as ever. In 1983, two years after they split up, she learnt that the former lover Richard Chanfray had committed suicide. Devastated … In 1984, she set off on tour again, The following years, she was force to interrupt her career to undergo 2 major eye operations. In 1986, She play a leading role in the film “Le Sixième jour” (director : Youssef Chahine)Le-sixieme-jour---AfficheIn 1987, she decided to put an end to her life and let a message :  “Forgive me life has become unbearable for me…”Wallpaper 30 ans déjà

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More informations about Dalida

SONGS (Some of her most famous songs) :

  • Bambino (1956)MF - 2e3079aed6f789f2afcb87f47ce0a331
  • Gondolier (1957)
  • Come prima (1958)
  • CiaoAmore Ciao (1967)
  • Darla dirladada (1970)
  • Avec le temps (1971)
  • Pour ne pas vivre seule (1972)
  • Parle plus bas (1972)
  • Paroles, Paroles (1973)
  • Je suis malade (1973)
  • Il venait d’avoir 18 ans (1974)
  • Gigi l’amoroso (1974)
  • J’attendrai (1976)
  • Besame Mucho (1976)
  • Salma Ya Salama (1977)
  • Génération 78 (1978)
  • Laissez-moi danser (1979)
  • Monday,Tuesday (1979)
  • Comme disait Mistinguett (1979)
  • Gigi in Paradisco (1980)
  • Mourir sur scène (1983)

 

 

 

 

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Experience Paris,with Ann Jeanne in Paris 

Paris through the eyes of a native

Get a real connection with Paris
“Ann Jeanne in Paris” tours are different from  traditional guided tours. They are private walking tours with you only,or you and the person you choose.  No lectures : it’s an encounter, a meeting, a cross-cultural experience. The tours are friendly, welcoming and we walk at your pace. I give you all my attention, I accompany you, I discuss with you and share my Paris with you.

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