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Ernest Hemingway (1899-1961) is one of the greatest American 20th century novelists.   He is renowned for his spare but powerful waiting style. Famous for his novels like “The Sun also rises,A farewell to arms” and also for “A moveable feast”, the memoir of his Paris years, written later after he returned to United States. Hemingway won the Nobel prize in 1954.

Sean Hemingway, Ernest Hemingway’s grand-son, said that what’s remarkable about his writing is that he really formed the writing in his head very carefully before it comes out”

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Ernest Hemingway, a figure that seems to belong to Paris

Although Ernest Hemingway has lived in Paris for only a short time (from 1921 to 1928), he is a figure that will always be connected to Paris. ThiA moveable feast - The BookThis is where he started writing his first novel which was going to be published (“The Sun also rises”) and this is where he lived the 6 years he spent with Hadley Richardson, his first wife. It seems that his years with Hadley in Paris were among his happiest years of his life and though he was married four times, that Hadley stayed his only true love.

Hemingway Hadley and others

Hadley (in the center) – Hemingway (on the left side)

He wrote “A moveable feast”, the memoir of his Paris years,  long after his return to United States with the help of notes he had written while in Paris.

If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast. – Ernest Hemingway

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“A day with Hemingway” walk is a great way to discover Hemingway’s Paris  

To take this walk with me or to get more information : Don’t hesitate to contact me : here

Hem in Shakespear & co. snapshot by Sylvia Beech

Hemingway in Shakespeare and Company in Saint Germain des Prés – Photo by Sylvia Beach

The walk takes you to most of the places Hemingway frequented. I have listed more than 25 places that are spread mostly across 3 neighborhoods (the Latin Quarter, Saint Germain des Prés and Montparnasse). The Latin Quarter where his first apartment was located, Montparnasse (his 2d apartment) and Saint Germain des Prés (his last home). And in these 3 neighborhoods, numerous cafés, brasseries and places he frequented…Without counting the streets in which he loved to stroll.xrue-mouffetard-vintage-photo-736-2x1.jpg.pagespeed.ic.hI0eY3Xjmw

And what’s amazing,  is that much of Hemingway’s Paris still exists: the cafés that he frequented, the brasseries where he dined, the places where he wrote some of his best writing, the places where he lived… Many of these places are mentioned in “Paris is a moveable feast” (his Paris’ memoirs) and in “”the Sun also rises” too.

But not only ! …. You don’t have to be the greatest fan of Hemingway to enjoy this stroll.

It is a good excuse to explore Paris off the beaten path, while stopping at some of Hemingway’s favorite spots. 

And…  it takes you back in time : If you love the 1920s era, “A day with Hemingway” is a way to experience what Paris was like at that time. In the 1920s, many writers and artists from all over the world moved to Paris and the American writers were known as the Lost Generation.Le Dome - cover-2-1170x543

To get more information about “A day with Hemingway” walk, Don’t hesitate to contact mehere

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Hadley,  the woman Hemingway never stopped lovingHadley2One can’t speak or write about Hemingway’s Paris without mentioning Hadley. Hemingway and Hadley were the golden couple of Paris in the 1920s

Wedding Hadley et Hemingway

Hadley Richardson, the woman he left and the woman Hemingway never stopped loving

Hemingway and Hadley

Hemingway was married four times. One says that Hadley (his first wife from 1921 to 1927) was his only true love and that he cherished her throughout his life.  And no one can denied Hadley’s major influence on Hemingway’s work. And her presence is found in Hemingway’s writing

Hemingway with Hadley and son Jack ‘Bumby, Paris 1920s. Photo- JFK Library

with their son Jack, nicknamed “Bumby

They lived 6 years together, which is most of the years Hemingway spent in Paris

With Hadley

He met her in 1920s, in Chicago, at a friend’s apartment. He was 21, Hadley was 28. They got married in Horton Bay, Chicago. They moved to Paris in 1921, shortly after their wedding. But they divorced in 1927, soon after Hemingway had a love affair with Pauline Pffeifer, who soon became his second wife. Hemingway and Hadley : a true love story and a heartbreaking ending.

Hem Hadley et Bumby

In “A moveable feast” he wrote about the years he spent with Hadley : I am happy and without any remorse and I never worked better nor was I happier and I loved the girl truly”. He displayed his feeling for her again in the novel “Islands in the stream” and dedicated “The sun also rises” to her and their son. His friend, A.E. Hotchner said that Hemingway has been seeking his great love the rest of his life, and that his separation from Hadley had haunted him to the grave.

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 Places where this walk will take you : 

“A day with Hemingway” walk takes you mostly off the beaten paththrough the 3 main neighborhoods he frequented : the Latin Quarter, Saint Germain des Prés and Montparnasse.  Closerie des lilas en noir et Blanc

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Among the numerous spots we’ll stop at :  places where he lived, his favorite cafés and brasseries (often gathering spots of numerous artists and writers at that time),  the hotel where he spent his first days in Paris , the hotel where Hadley found herself alone with their son after Hemingway left her for Pauline (who was going to be his second wife)  , the cafe where he wrote most of “The Sun also rises” and many more

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To take this walk with me or to get more information : Dont’ hesitate to contact me : here

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How and why did I designed “A day with Hemingway” itinerary ?

I have always been passionate about knowing and visiting places where writers and artists lived and worked in Paris. I feel it’s a way to get closer to their writing, to get closer to the humans they were, a way to feel the city (rather that “visiting” it) and a way to get to know more about the history of Paris. And I had enjoyed reading the Hemingway books that are so associated to Paris (Especially “A moveable feast” but “The Sun also rises” too)Hemingway_à_Paris - Cardinal Lemoine

And it turns out that the 3 main neighborhoods that Hemingway frequented are my favorite too and those where I spent the most of my time in Paris. As you may know already (!), I am a “left bank” person. And it’s where I was born and raised and this is where I live now.
I have always known and frequented most of all the places mentioned by Hemingway in “A moveable feast”.

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However, before designing the tour, I sought out and checked all the addresses at which Hemingway had lived, every houses, hotels bars and restaurants, every street and block, I re-read his books* (the ones strongly linked to Paris, and I went again to all the “Hemingway’s addresses and hangouts. 

It was fun research and a real pleasure to work on designing this tour and it will be my pleasure to share it with you ! To take this walk with me or to get more information : Don’t hesitate to contact me : here

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A few notes about “A day with Hemingway” walk with AJIP

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My grand-parents in 1928 when they moved to the Latin Quarter

The Hemingway’s Latin Quarter : This is where Hemingway and Hadley settled in their first apartment in 1921, a very modest apartment in a working class neighborhood.      

With the exception of a few years, my grand-mother could have met Hemingway on the street or in a shop… !! For indeed, the street Hemingway used to go shopping was the one where my grand-mother loved to go to. And Hemingway and Hadley’s first apartment was located nearby the street where my grand-parents settled in the 30s

But Hemingway left Paris in 1928 (!), a short time after (one or two years) he divorced Hadley. And my grand-parents settled in this neighborhood around 1929… (!)

During our stroll through this part, we’ll see : a lively market street, the building where his first apartment was located, his favorite café located at a charming square. We’ll walk the same streets he used to walk to go either to the Luxembourg garden, to Gertrude Stein his friend and great supporter, or to the banks of the Seine. And we’ll pass by many other Hemingway’s spots

 

The as ever confident Hemingway, Paris 1922. Photo- Hemingway Collection

Hemingway in the courtyard of his 2d Paris home

Hemingway’s Montparnasse : a neighborhood where many artists lived, gathered and worked in the 1920s. It was the neighborhood of Hemingway‘s second apartment in Paris. Where he and Hadley moved  when they came back to Paris in 1927 (after their son was born in Toronto).779-rotonde-la

Of course, there was no chance for me to meet Hemingway (!!!!) , but the area where he lived (1924-1927) is my most favorite Paris area. The place where my secondary school was located and the neighborhood that I’ve so often preferently chosen, when a teenager, to meet my friends in cafés, to go to movie theaters and so on. A neighborhood I  favour, still now. And surely the area I’d like to choose if I had to change apartment.

When a teenager, I didn’t know about the rich history of Montparnasse… A few years later, I learnt about it, and it made me love Montparnasse even more

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Where Hemingway used to stroll

During our stroll  through Montparnasse, we’ll see : His second home with Hadley, the home of Ezra Pound, the 4 cafés he loved (among them the Closerie des Lilas where he wrote almost the whole of “The Sun also rises”, the place where he met Scott Fitzgerald for the first time, hthe location of Gertrude Stein apartment (where they used to meet and discuss), l’hotel where he started his love affair with Pauline Pffeifer, the location of the bakery where he used to go, the hotel where Hadley felt so lonely after they separated.

Hemingway’s Saint Germain des Prés : This is where Hemingway and Hadley stayed the first days they arrived in Paris. This is also where numerous of his favorite cafés and restaurants are located too. And this is where the original Shakespeare and Company (owned by Sylvia Beach) was located too (So this is not the actual Shakespeare and Company, rue de la Bûcherie, that opened in 1951,long after Hemingway left Paris).

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With Sylvia Beach (on the right side) at Shakespeare and Company

Sylvia Beach was the owner of this lending library/bookshop,  which played a major role in Hemingway’s life when in Paris, alike in many other writers’s life. It was a gathering place for artists and particularly the American expatriate community (J Joyce, Fitzgerald, Gertrude Stein and many more … ) Hemingway used to borrow books there.

One of my favorite places to meet friends, to wander by myself, to spend time in cafés, reading working dreaming.

During our stroll , we’ll see : the hotel where he stayed with Hadley during his first Paris days, the location of the original Shakespeare and Company, 2 restaurants he used to go regularly, 3 cafés he especially loved, his second home with Pauline, the Luxembourg Garden where he loved to wander, the location of the museum he used to go to and other spots

Some RECOMMENDATIONS AND SUGGESTIONS : BELOW on this page : Books, article and the hotel where Hemingway stayed when he arrived in Paris

MORE PHOTOS OF HEMINGWAY’s PARIS at the BOTTOM OF THIS PAGE

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 AJIP private walking tours

To take this walk with me or to get more information : Don’t hesitate to contact me : here

“A day with Hemingway” private walking tour, will take you from the Latin Quarter to Montparnasse, through Saint Germain des prés. We’ll walk the streets Hemingway used to walk and will stop at the places where he lived, at his favorite cafés and all the places that were important during his Paris years.02022019-IMG_9509

I’ll give you a small booklet with the list of the places we’ve seen and explored and in addition the list of the main other places he used to go to on the right bank (some of them he visited long after his Paris’ years) such as the Ritz.

“A day with Hemingway” walk, includes two breaks with a drink (included in the fees) in two of Hemingway’s favorite cafés

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  • If you prefer a shorter walk, we can focus on 2 of these 3 neighborhoods : any combination which suits you.  
  • The whole walk can be divided into two parts too (on two different days)

If you’re coming to Paris soon and feel like discovering the Paris of Hemingway, if you’re passionate about Paris in the 1920s, about discovering the city off the beaten path, wether you’re a fan of Hemingway or not, Don’t hesitate to contact me 

  • List of AJIP private toursHere  – Each of the tours can be customized according to your wishes and interests : 
  • About the booking and pricing: Here 

MORE PHOTOS OF HEMINGWAY’s PARIS at the BOTTOM OF THIS PAGE

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My recommendations and suggestions :

You don’t have to have read Hemingway’s books or his biographies to enjoy “A day with Hemingway”

But if you haven’t, our walk may make you want to know more about Hemingway’s life, about Hemingway’s work and about his love story with Hadley ! Here some suggestions

  • A moveable feast by Hemingway (his Paris’ memoir) – Written after his Paris years. Published in 1964 by Mary Hemingway, his 4th wife, 3 years after Hemingway’s death. A moveable feast - The Book
  • The Sun also rises by Hemingway (1926) – The novel of the Lost Generation  – The setting at the beginning of the book takes place in Paris. – Hemingway’s first novel, written while he was in Paris and which established him as a writer of genius.Fiesta-The-Sun-Also-Rises-by-Ernest-Hemingway_[4665]_568
  • The Paris’ wifeby Paula Mc Lain – The story of Hadley and Hemigway’s relationship from its beginning to its heartbreaking endingThe_Paris_Wife_book_cover
  • Midnight in Paris (2011) – the movie, by Woody Allen. “A moveable feast” has provided inspiration for Woody Allen’s movie. Midnight in Paris is set in the Paris of the 1920s as portrayed in Hemingway’s memoir The movie features the figures of Hemingway, Gertrude Stein, F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald and uses the phrase “A moveable Feast’ in 2 sentences. Hemingway in Midnight in Paris
  • Paris without end : the true story of Hemingway’s wifeby Gioia Diliberto
  • The Paris‘ husband by Scott Donaldson (2018)
  • Hemingway in Love, his own story a book by AE Hotchner (one of his close friends)
  • And I invite you to read this article : Ernest Hemingway in Love 
  • HOTEL d’ANGLETERRE : You can stay in the hotel where Hemingway and Hadley stayed during their first days in Paris. The room (room 14) is unchanged. It has to be reserved far in advance – 44 rue Jacob – Paris 6 – Website of the hotel d’Angleterre https://www.hotel-dangleterre.com

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    Room 14 – Hotel d’Angleterre – 44 rue Jacob – Paris 6

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MORE PHOTOS

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Where Hemingway like to stroll and shop

 

Sylvia Beach & Adrienne Monnier

Sylvia Beach and Adrienne Monnier at Shakespeare and Company (the original bookshop !)

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Ernest Hemingway at his desk, working

EH5180 Paris Years:1922-1930 Ernest Hemingway wearing hat and holding John (Bumby) Hemingway. Series 03. Paris Years, 1922-1930. Box 3, Folder 21. Please Credit: "Ernest Hemingway Photograph Collection. John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, Boston."

Ernest Hemingway  holding John (Bumby) Hemingway.
Please Credit: “Ernest Hemingway Photograph Collection. John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, Boston.”

Hadley et Bumby

Hadley with Bumby in their Montparnasse apartment

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Shakespeare and Company, the original bookshop in Saint Germain des Prés

Ernest Hemingway with his son Bumpy (Jack), Paris 1925 -by Man Ray

Ernest Hemingway with his son Bumpy (Jack), Paris 1925

 

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Gertrude Stein, who welcomed, support and helped Hemingway

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THE SOUTH EAST OF THE LATIN QUARTER : the Latin Quarter OFF THE BEATEN TRACK…where Parisians love to go, where visitors rarely go…

“We did the hidden Latin Quarter tour. Cannot praise Ann Jeanne enough. Passionate with great knowledge. Very easy to talk to. Even though we had been to Paris many times we learnt so much. Would highly recommend these tours. Thank you for your time Ann Jeanne”  – Warren Greg Tania Dave

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If you like wandering off the beaten track and explore quaint neighborhoods, you’ll probably enjoy this neighborhood that has a very special place in my heart and you will see what visitors in Paris often miss.  

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Hadley and Ernest Hemingway in 1922 – It’s where they both used to live and go shopping –

The South East of the Latin Quarter that many travel websites and travel guides don’t mention. Though : 17th century facades, one of the most favourite market of the Left bank Parisians, high quality food and shops, remains of the Roman time, amazing doors…and among Hemingway’s most favorite Paris’neighborhoods. We’ll walk his favorite streets, and will see his home and the cafe he used to enjoy the most in this area

In the Snows of Kilimanjaro (E. Hemingway), Harry, the character wrote regarding this South East part of the Latin Quarter : “…There never was another part of Paris that he loved like that, the sprawling trees, the old white plastered houses painted brown below, the long treen of the autobus in that round square, the sudden drop down the hill of the rue Cardinal Lemoine to the River …”

This Latin Quarter :  often missed by visitors, though a great history and a very Parisian charm30072017-P7300180-4

It’s an area preserved, with a feel of the old times with its narrow paved streets, its markets, its old fountain and many more special places. And it has a special place in my heart, a place that I would enjoy to share with you : this neighborhood is the neighborhood/village where my grandmother was living and used to go shopping from the 30s to the 80s, where my mother has been raised and where my parents got married.30072017-P7300162-4

Location :

Located on the left bank of the river Seine, it’s the South-East part of the Latin Quarter, a part largely untouched by the Haussman huge renovation. Between the Pantheon and the Boulevard Port Royal. The South half part of the red zone on the map belowparis-5th-latin-quarter

One of the oldest part of Paris : 

This neighborhood has an amazing history and it’s also one of the oldest part of Paris. It was first built during the Roman time about 2000 years ago and the area still conserves Roman ruins. During the Middle Age, it was a very lively village. This part of Paris was annexed to Paris in 1724.  Nowadays it’s one of the most beloved part of ParisDSC_2036

30072017-P7300162-1Paths dating back to Roman time (paths from about 2000 years ago) walk the streets with old painted signs reminder of past times, and building facades dating back to the 17th centuryDSC_2111

Previously a Medieval Market street : During the Private tour I’ll designed for you, we’ll browse a market street (Mouffetard street) whose origin is probably 1350AD, possibly earlier, a wonderful market street with quality food places (vegetables, fruits, cheese, pastries, wine cellars, fresh breads and much more).30072017-P7300161-6

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This was among Hemingway’s most favorite districts when he was living in Paris

We’ll stroll the pretty side streets with 17th century facades, old doors, an old fountain, 5 century old church, restaurants with outdoor tables, and sometimes musicians playing in the street. We’ll stop for coffee at a classic old and peaceful square… (Why not where Hemingway’ cafe was ?)…And we will see some of Hemingway‘s favorite haunts including the place where he has been living several years with Adley.

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  • A break at the Lutetia Arenas , one of the most important remains of Lutetia (Paris was known then as Lutetia) from Gallo-Roman time. These arenas restored are dating back to the 1st century AD and were a Roman amphitheater. The exact place were gladiators were fighting with lions about 2000 years ago. And in the 20th century it was one of  my mother and uncle’s favorite ‘s playgrounds ! Nowadays, it’s still a favorite playground for neighborhood kids. A visit in the Lutetia Arena can be included in the private tour0_4200_84_2716_two_Pantheon_Woodson_009Arènes_de_Lutèce,_Paris_15_August_2013_007
  • A visit to a 13th Cistercian building : The College des Bernardins (click on the link for more detail about this building). A visit of The College des Bernardins can be included in our private tour22032017-IMG_6189
  • a visit to a 17th century royal garden : Le  Jardin des Plantes (click on the link for more detail about this building), which is the first French botanical garden, and a visit of the tropical greenhouses located in this garden . This garden was one of the place where my grand mother loved to take me when I was a child. A walk in the Jardin des Plantes and a visit of the Greenhouses can be included in your private tour. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
  • A visit and a mint tea at the gorgeous white Grande Mosquée de paris with it’s impressive minaret
  • a visit to the rooftop of the Institut du Monde Arabe to enjoy a breathtaking view over the City Island (center of Paris where Notre Dame is located) can be included in your private tour

Please be aware that the Latin Quarter and Saint Germain des Prés are distinct neighborhoods ! Please, be aware that many English websites, even the most renown websites and reviewers, make a confusion between the Latin Quarter and Saint Germain des Prés; Saint Germain des Prés is a wonderful neighborhood (probably among my favorite neighborhoods, the neighborhood where I’d love to live if my current neighborhood didn’t exist… and if I had much more money too !) but Saint Germain des Prés is not the Latin Quarter. 2 different neighborhoods, 2 different atmospheres and feels. and 2 very different histories…

(MORE PHOTOS OF THE SOUTH-EAST OF THE LATIN QUARTER AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS PAGE )

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A few words about Ann Jeanne Private walks

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Share my Paris, the Paris I love. I welcome you, I accompany you and we walk at your pace. Half a day or a whole day with a native including a break in a very Parisian cafe. It’s a cross cultural experience in Paris and a way to see Paris in a Parisian perspective.

Ann Jeanne in Paris’ private tours are designed for one or two persons for a friendly and personal experience of Paris. I was born and raised in Paris. And Paris is city where I live.

More details about Ann Jeanne Paris tours Don’t hesitate to contact me

And  : Some details about the booking and pricing :

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More photos of the South-East part of the Latin Quarter

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30 questions on your tray placemat

The legendary Shakespeare and Company bookshop 
has opened a cafe last mid-october (2015)

Rue Saint Julien le Pauvre

It’s located at the corner of rue de la Bucherie and rue St Julien le Pauvre, next-door to Shakespeare and Company bookshop, with a view over Notre Dame.     Link to Shakespeare and Company bookstore article

History : George Whitman wanted a literary cafe next to his bookstore, many decades ago.

“I’ve got to get back the upstairs, and I’m going to open a literary café. Everything will be cooked under my supervision. There’s only one way to make a good lemon pie, you know.” — George Whitman, 1969.

A cafe as imagined by George Whitman in the 1960s and illustrated by James King

A cafe as imagined by George Whitman in the 1960s and illustrated by James King

 

Sylvia Whitman, George Whitman’s daughter, wanted to honor her father’s wishes and she made the George Whitman’s drawings a reality. The adjacent (vacant) property which used to be a stationery shop has been empty for over twenty years and so was officially available.

In October 2015, the café opened, next door to the antiquarian section of the bookshop.

The retro 70s floor tiles and the old stone walls have been preserved. Inside, some countertop seats, a few tables and chairs and more seating outside on benches.

 

                                                    Inside the cafe

Not any coffee, nor any tea... 
but high standards. Delicious

The Shakespeare and Company cafe serve soups of the day,pies, hand-rolled bagels, finger sandwiches, baked goods, vegan and gluten-free dishes , cookies (peanut butter cookies, chocolate  cookies, dark chocolate matcha cookies), brownies, lemon tarts, scones, pressed juices, smoothies of the day, coffee, tea…

They offer literary themed products too, such as : a special “Shakespeare Shake” ( = the smoothie of the day), the “Flapjack Kerouac”, the “Bun also rises”, the “Lunchpack of Notre Dame” (picnic baskets filled with wine to take away for some Seine-side dining) !!!!

30 questions on your tray placemat

30 questions on your tray placemat

A version of the legendary Proust questionnaire on each placemat lining every tray. (30 questions on your placemat)

The cafe is working with some great suppliers  :

The food is supplied by Bob’s kitchen : organic, and largely vegetarian food. Bob’s kitchen is run by Marc Grossman, an American born and raised in Manhattan. It’s also a restaurant located in the 3d arrondissement of Paris. 

The coffee is supplied by the Parisan roaster Café Lomi. Cafe Lomi is also a cafe located in the 18th arrondissement of Paris

The tea is supplied by London Postcard Tea, a London-based company featuring popular and rare teas.

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My advice :

Really gorgeous. everytime I go to Shakespeare and Company cafe, I enjoy the atmosphere and a top quality products : coffee, tea…Gorgeous cookies… etc

If you find yourself browsing at Shakespeare and Company next door,

If you visit the Latin Quarter,

If you’ve got some free time and nothing special to do,

………………………………………………………………………………………..    , visit the Shakespeare and Company café !!

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Addresses

Shakespeare and Company : 37 rue de la Bûcherie – Paris 5 – Metro stop Saint Michel                                                                           Monday to Friday 10 to 18h30   Saturday and Sunday from 10 to 19.30

London Postcard :  http://www.postcardteas.com/site/

Café Lomi : 3 ter Rue Marcadet, 75018 Paris, France

 Monday to Sunday : 10 am to 7 pm

Bob’s kitchen : Several places  74 rue des Gravilliers – Paris 3 – Metro Stop : arts et Métiers The restaurant serves breakfast, vegetarian and vegetalian meals and snacks, Monday to Friday : 8am to 3 pm Saturday and sunday : 8am to 4 pm TEL. 09.52.55.11.66

Also : Bob’s juice bar – 15 rue Lucien Sampaix – Paris 10   Monday to Friday 7.30 am to 3 pm Saturday 8.30am to 4pm TEL. 09.50.06.36.18

And Bob’s Bake Shop – Halle Pajol – 12 esplanade Nathalie Sarraute – Paris 18 – Everyday 8am to 4pm – TEL. 09.84.46.25.26

 

Shakespeare and Company

Shakespeare and Co rue de la BucherieShakespeare and Company : a legendary bookstore

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Situation

A gorgeous bookshop with a lot of history, facing the river Seine, right across from the Notre Dame Cathedral, in a 16th century building.

Out front, bookstands and a drinking fountain erected in the 19th century.

And since October 12th 2015, a café beside the bookshop (corner of rue de la Bûcherie and rue Saint Julien Le Pauvre). (An article about the Shakespeare and Company cafe coming up soon)

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