Les Puces de Saint Ouen, the “world’s largest attic”

Location and name

Although officially located in the suburb of Saint Ouen, it’s generally considered part of Paris’ flea market scene.

It’s referred to either as Puces de Saint Ouen (named after the suburb) or Les Puces de Clignancourt (after the nearby Porte de Clignancourt metro stop on the Northern edge of Paris).

THE LARGEST FLEA MARKET IN THE WORLD

People from all over the world come to explore this village-like fle market. .

More than 10 million visitors every year!

14 distinct market areas

There are around 14 separate market areas and more than 1700 vendors displaying their items in shops, stalls and warehouses.

The main street is Rue des Rosiers, a useful point of reference to help you find your way around this huge flea market village.

SAINT OUEN: ONE OF PARIS THREE MAIN FLEA MARKETS

The 3 main Paris flea markets are :

Vanves flea market,
Montreuil flea market
Saint-Ouen Flea market.

But Saint Ouen is by far the biggest and the most famous. It’s also the largest in the world.

You’ll find all sorts of “architectures” here: covered huts, stalls, warehouses, garages, shops…

From antiques, records, books, and antique jewelry to vintage clothing. From all eras and all corners of the world. And for all budgets.

A BIT OF HISTORY

It all started with people collecting discarded objects from the streets of Paris at night to sell them.

But by the end of the 19th century, they were chased out of the city. Some settled just north of Paris, setting up temporary stalls.

Over time, these sales became more structured and permanent.

The market as we know it today really began after WWI, with semi-enclosed areas, some open-air, some covered, set up along Rue des Rosiers. It quickly became popular.

It got its name from the fleas that infested the old furniture sold there.

“Midnight in Paris” in the Puces de Saint-Ouen

The market appears in the movie Midnight in Paris (scene filmed in Marché Biron, Allée 1).

This is where Gil wanders around looking for treasures, and meets Gabrielle, from whom he buys a vintage Cole Porter record.

WHAT CAN YOU FIND THERE?

Crystal chandeliers, decorative objects, plaster animals, copper pots, pharmacy bottles, bookends from the 1950s, cupboards, tin furniture…

…antique jewelry, vintage fashion, postcards, silverware, crystal glasses, furniture from factories, signed designer pieces, and much more, the list is endless!

MAIN MARKET AREAS

Marché VERNAISON : The oldest one. Founded by Mr Vernaison. Here you’ll find a bit of everything : beads, fabric, paintings, antiques, fashion, books, toys, vintage clothing.

Marché DAUPHINE (140 rue des Rosiers)

Home to Falbalas, one of the last shops offering costumes from the 18th century to the 1980s.

Marché BIRON : Founded in 1925. Possibly the most classic (and expensive). Furniture and lighting from the 17th to 20th century. The shops and stalls are spread on both sides of a long alleyway . It’s where Gil and Gabrielle meet in Midnight in Paris.

Le Marché PAUL BERT , 96-110 Rue des Rosiers. Vintage furniture from the 19th and 20th centuries, including the 50s and 60s, thrift stores… This market is owned by the Duke of Westminster. Some notable shops:

Alain Fradin et Eric Fleuret : 20th-century vintage. Allée 5
David Netter : Fashion from the 50s to 80s. Allée 2 – Stall n° 32 du marché Paul-Bert.
Giraud Art Déco : : 91 Rue des Rosiers – stand specialist of the 20th century: “Vintage couture jewelry” (Chanel, Miriam Haskell, R.Sorrell…), Art Deco lighting, Crystal chandeliers, Murano lamps, furniture (dressing tables, chests of drawers, mirrored chiffoniers…).

Le Marché SERPETTE 110 rue des Rosiers. Probably the most upscale and classic one (with Marché Biron). Some spots:

Le Monde du Voyage: Luxury items : Hermès items (including the iconic scarves “Carré Hermès”), Chanel, Vuitton suitcases… – Allée 3, Stand 15
Artémise et Cunégonde: “Haute Couture” clothes. Alley 1 Stands 28 and 29

Le Marché JULES VALLES :

“Sarah” : Vintage lingerie and antique clothing.
Alexis T. : 58 rue Jules Vallès. Vintage fashion designer
Chez Laeticia. Home of Vuitton trunks.

TIPS and THOUGHTS

Watch out for pickpockets, more especially Clignancourt metro stop and the market … But in the Saint Ouen market too. Keep your bags closed and your belongings safe

Mornings are usually less crowded.

Rue des Rosiers is your best landmark. Use it to stay oriented.

Remember what one stall vendor said : “You have to know how to search, it’s the customer who makes the find”.

Don’t hesitate to negotiate prices

Bring cash. Not all vendors accept cards, and it helps when bargaining.

Check out the official website of the Puces de Saint Ouen website for more info.

Also consider visiting Marché de Vanves. A different atmosphere, smaller and an interesting flea market too

Personally, I prefer using Garibaldi metro stop (line 13). it’s a longer and slightly tricky walk. So use a map app. It’s a way to avoid the less pleasant walk from Clignancourt, which I don’t really like. You might feel the same…

HOW TO GET THERE ?

Metro (zone 1)

Option 1 : Porte de Clignancourt Métro stop (Line 4). Follow the signs. About a 10-minute walk (walk north) past the Périphérique ( = the circle road which goes all around Paris). Not the nicest walk, though, and best to stay alert…

Option 2: Garibaldi Métro stop (line 13). (so as to avoid the not very pleasant path between Clignancourt metro stop and the flea market itself). About 15-minute walk. This is generally the option I choose.

…or … : Just take a taxi and ask for : “rue des Rosiers au Marché aux Puces de Saint Ouen” “ (Be careful: there’s also a “rue des Rosiers” in Le Marais neighborhood in Paris.)

Last but not least: CAFES and RESTAURANTS

There are plenty of options, but don’t expect haute cuisine…!

Among the most famous places :

Louisette : by far, this is THE Puces’ institution …. the most outdated and inimitable… (!!), the kitschest …. an old renowned place for its outdated atmosphere with multicolored garlands and repertoire of French songs, accordion . But don’t expect a refine meal neither the chicest welcome… (!) but I’ve heard that Sharon Stone loves it – Address : Marché Vernaison. 30, avenue Michelet.
La Crème – Coffee and Sweet treats, a drink, maybe a pastry (!?) or a meal. A new spot in the Puces de Saint Ouen: Marché Paul Bert 96 / 110 rue des Rosiers allée 6 stand 81 bis
Ma Cocotte :Trendy and stylish. Chic but still affordable. Designed by Philippe Starck renowned French architect. At the entrance of Marché Paul Bert, 106 Rue des Rosiers
Le Biron : 85, rue des Rosiers
Café Paul Bert : The hotspot for regulars and vendors. The place to be!. Address : 20, rue Paul-Bert.
Le Roi du Café Traditional charm and old-style decor.
Le Picolo : Probably the oldest restaurant at the Puces. Classic French dishes. 58 rue Jules Vallès