Ann Jeanne in Paris

a Friend in Paris

13Apr

“A day with Hemingway” walk

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: Non classé People Tours
5 Comments
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Ernest Hemingway (1899-1961) is one of the greatest American 20th century novelists.   He is renowned for his spare but powerful waiting style. Famous for his novels like “The Sun also rises, “A farewell to arms” and also for “A moveable feast”, the memoir of his Paris years, written later after he returned to United States. Hemingway won the Nobel prize in 1954.

Sean Hemingway, Ernest Hemingway’s grand-son, said that what’s remarkable about his writing is that he really formed the writing in his head very carefully before it comes out”

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Ernest Hemingway, a figure that seems to belong to Paris

Although Ernest Hemingway has lived in Paris for only a short time (from 1921 to 1928), he is a figure that will always be connected to Paris. ThiA moveable feast - The BookThis is where he started writing his first novel which was going to be published (“The Sun also rises”) and this is where he lived the 6 years he spent with Hadley Richardson, his first wife. It seems that his years with Hadley in Paris were among his happiest years of his life and though he was married four times, that Hadley stayed his only true love.

Hemingway Hadley and others

Hadley (in the center) – Hemingway (on the left side)

He wrote “A moveable feast”, the memoir of his Paris years,  long after his return to United States with the help of notes he had written while in Paris.

“If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.“ – Ernest Hemingway

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“A day with Hemingway” walk is a great way to discover Hemingway’s Paris  

To take this walk with me or to get more information : Don’t hesitate to contact me : here

Hem in Shakespear & co. snapshot by Sylvia Beech

Hemingway in Shakespeare and Company in Saint Germain des Prés – Photo by Sylvia Beach

The walk takes you to most of the places Hemingway frequented. I have listed more than 25 places that are spread mostly across 3 neighborhoods (the Latin Quarter, Saint Germain des Prés and Montparnasse). The Latin Quarter where his first apartment was located, Montparnasse (his 2d apartment) and Saint Germain des Prés (his last home). And in these 3 neighborhoods, numerous cafés, brasseries and places he frequented…Without counting the streets in which he loved to stroll.xrue-mouffetard-vintage-photo-736-2x1.jpg.pagespeed.ic.hI0eY3Xjmw

And what’s amazing,  is that much of Hemingway’s Paris still exists: the cafés that he frequented, the brasseries where he dined, the places where he wrote some of his best writing, the places where he lived… Many of these places are mentioned in “Paris is a moveable feast” (his Paris’ memoirs) and in “”the Sun also rises” too.

But not only ! …. You don’t have to be the greatest fan of Hemingway to enjoy this stroll.

It is a good excuse to explore Paris off the beaten path, while stopping at some of Hemingway’s favorite spots. 

And…  it takes you back in time : If you love the 1920s era, “A day with Hemingway” is a way to experience what Paris was like at that time. In the 1920s, many writers and artists from all over the world moved to Paris and the American writers were known as the Lost Generation.Le Dome - cover-2-1170x543

To get more information about “A day with Hemingway” walk, Don’t hesitate to contact me : here

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Hadley,  the woman Hemingway never stopped lovingHadley2One can’t speak or write about Hemingway’s Paris without mentioning Hadley. Hemingway and Hadley were the golden couple of Paris in the 1920s

Wedding Hadley et Hemingway

Hadley Richardson, the woman he left and the woman Hemingway never stopped loving

Hemingway and Hadley

Hemingway was married four times. One says that Hadley (his first wife from 1921 to 1927) was his only true love and that he cherished her throughout his life.  And no one can denied Hadley’s major influence on Hemingway’s work. And her presence is found in Hemingway’s writing

Hemingway with Hadley and son Jack ‘Bumby, Paris 1920s. Photo- JFK Library

with their son Jack, nicknamed “Bumby

They lived 6 years together, which is most of the years Hemingway spent in Paris

With Hadley

He met her in 1920s, in Chicago, at a friend’s apartment. He was 21, Hadley was 28. They got married in Horton Bay, Chicago. They moved to Paris in 1921, shortly after their wedding. But they divorced in 1927, soon after Hemingway had a love affair with Pauline Pffeifer, who soon became his second wife. Hemingway and Hadley : a true love story and a heartbreaking ending.

Hem Hadley et Bumby

In “A moveable feast” he wrote about the years he spent with Hadley : I am happy and without any remorse and I never worked better nor was I happier and I loved the girl truly”. He displayed his feeling for her again in the novel “Islands in the stream” and dedicated “The sun also rises” to her and their son. His friend, A.E. Hotchner said that Hemingway has been seeking his great love the rest of his life, and that his separation from Hadley had haunted him to the grave.

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 Places where this walk will take you : 

“A day with Hemingway” walk takes you mostly off the beaten path, through the 3 main neighborhoods he frequented : the Latin Quarter, Saint Germain des Prés and Montparnasse.  Closerie des lilas en noir et Blanc

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Among the numerous spots we’ll stop at :  places where he lived, his favorite cafés and brasseries (often gathering spots of numerous artists and writers at that time),  the hotel where he spent his first days in Paris , the hotel where Hadley found herself alone with their son after Hemingway left her for Pauline (who was going to be his second wife)  , the cafe where he wrote most of “The Sun also rises” and many more

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To take this walk with me or to get more information : Dont’ hesitate to contact me : here

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How and why did I designed “A day with Hemingway” itinerary ?

I have always been passionate about knowing and visiting places where writers and artists lived and worked in Paris. I feel it’s a way to get closer to their writing, to get closer to the humans they were, a way to feel the city (rather that “visiting” it) and a way to get to know more about the history of Paris. And I had enjoyed reading the Hemingway books that are so associated to Paris (Especially “A moveable feast” but “The Sun also rises” too)Hemingway_à_Paris - Cardinal Lemoine

And it turns out that the 3 main neighborhoods that Hemingway frequented are my favorite too and those where I spent the most of my time in Paris. As you may know already (!), I am a “left bank” person. And it’s where I was born and raised and this is where I live now.
I have always known and frequented most of all the places mentioned by Hemingway in “A moveable feast”.

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However, before designing the tour, I sought out and checked all the addresses at which Hemingway had lived, every houses, hotels bars and restaurants, every street and block, I re-read his books* (the ones strongly linked to Paris, and I went again to all the “Hemingway’s addresses and hangouts. 

It was fun research and a real pleasure to work on designing this tour and it will be my pleasure to share it with you ! To take this walk with me or to get more information : Don’t hesitate to contact me : here

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A few notes about “A day with Hemingway” walk with AJIP

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My grand-parents in 1928 when they moved to the Latin Quarter

The Hemingway’s Latin Quarter : This is where Hemingway and Hadley settled in their first apartment in 1921, a very modest apartment in a working class neighborhood.      

With the exception of a few years, my grand-mother could have met Hemingway on the street or in a shop… !! For indeed, the street Hemingway used to go shopping was the one where my grand-mother loved to go to. And Hemingway and Hadley’s first apartment was located nearby the street where my grand-parents settled in the 30s

But Hemingway left Paris in 1928 (!), a short time after (one or two years) he divorced Hadley. And my grand-parents settled in this neighborhood around 1929… (!)

During our stroll through this part, we’ll see : a lively market street, the building where his first apartment was located, his favorite café located at a charming square. We’ll walk the same streets he used to walk to go either to the Luxembourg garden, to Gertrude Stein his friend and great supporter, or to the banks of the Seine. And we’ll pass by many other Hemingway’s spots

 

The as ever confident Hemingway, Paris 1922. Photo- Hemingway Collection

Hemingway in the courtyard of his 2d Paris home

Hemingway’s Montparnasse : a neighborhood where many artists lived, gathered and worked in the 1920s. It was the neighborhood of Hemingway‘s second apartment in Paris. Where he and Hadley moved  when they came back to Paris in 1927 (after their son was born in Toronto).779-rotonde-la

Of course, there was no chance for me to meet Hemingway (!!!!) , but the area where he lived (1924-1927) is my most favorite Paris area. The place where my secondary school was located and the neighborhood that I’ve so often preferently chosen, when a teenager, to meet my friends in cafés, to go to movie theaters and so on. A neighborhood I  favour, still now. And surely the area I’d like to choose if I had to change apartment.

When a teenager, I didn’t know about the rich history of Montparnasse… A few years later, I learnt about it, and it made me love Montparnasse even more

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Where Hemingway used to stroll

During our stroll  through Montparnasse, we’ll see : His second home with Hadley, the home of Ezra Pound, the 4 cafés he loved (among them the Closerie des Lilas where he wrote almost the whole of “The Sun also rises”, the place where he met Scott Fitzgerald for the first time, hthe location of Gertrude Stein apartment (where they used to meet and discuss), l’hotel where he started his love affair with Pauline Pffeifer, the location of the bakery where he used to go, the hotel where Hadley felt so lonely after they separated.

Hemingway’s Saint Germain des Prés : This is where Hemingway and Hadley stayed the first days they arrived in Paris. This is also where numerous of his favorite cafés and restaurants are located too. And this is where the original Shakespeare and Company (owned by Sylvia Beach) was located too (So this is not the actual Shakespeare and Company, rue de la Bûcherie, that opened in 1951,long after Hemingway left Paris).

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With Sylvia Beach (on the right side) at Shakespeare and Company

Sylvia Beach was the owner of this lending library/bookshop,  which played a major role in Hemingway’s life when in Paris, alike in many other writers’s life. It was a gathering place for artists and particularly the American expatriate community (J Joyce, Fitzgerald, Gertrude Stein and many more … ) Hemingway used to borrow books there.

One of my favorite places to meet friends, to wander by myself, to spend time in cafés, reading working dreaming.

During our stroll , we’ll see : the hotel where he stayed with Hadley during his first Paris days, the location of the original Shakespeare and Company, 2 restaurants he used to go regularly, 3 cafés he especially loved, his second home with Pauline, the Luxembourg Garden where he loved to wander, the location of the museum he used to go to and other spots

Some RECOMMENDATIONS AND SUGGESTIONS : BELOW on this page : Books, article and the hotel where Hemingway stayed when he arrived in Paris

MORE PHOTOS OF HEMINGWAY’s PARIS at the BOTTOM OF THIS PAGE

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 AJIP private walking tours

To take this walk with me or to get more information : Don’t hesitate to contact me : here

“A day with Hemingway” private walking tour, will take you from the Latin Quarter to Montparnasse, through Saint Germain des prés. We’ll walk the streets Hemingway used to walk and will stop at the places where he lived, at his favorite cafés and all the places that were important during his Paris years.02022019-IMG_9509

I’ll give you a small booklet with the list of the places we’ve seen and explored and in addition the list of the main other places he used to go to on the right bank (some of them he visited long after his Paris’ years) such as the Ritz.

“A day with Hemingway” walk, includes two breaks with a drink (included in the fees) in two of Hemingway’s favorite cafés

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  • If you prefer a shorter walk, we can focus on 2 of these 3 neighborhoods : any combination which suits you.  
  • The whole walk can be divided into two parts too (on two different days)

If you’re coming to Paris soon and feel like discovering the Paris of Hemingway, if you’re passionate about Paris in the 1920s, about discovering the city off the beaten path, wether you’re a fan of Hemingway or not, Don’t hesitate to contact me 

  • List of AJIP private tours – Here  – Each of the tours can be customized according to your wishes and interests : 
  • About the booking and pricing: Here 

MORE PHOTOS OF HEMINGWAY’s PARIS at the BOTTOM OF THIS PAGE

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My recommendations and suggestions :

You don’t have to have read Hemingway’s books or his biographies to enjoy “A day with Hemingway”

But if you haven’t, our walk may make you want to know more about Hemingway’s life, about Hemingway’s work and about his love story with Hadley ! Here some suggestions

  • “A moveable feast” by Hemingway (his Paris’ memoir) – Written after his Paris years. Published in 1964 by Mary Hemingway, his 4th wife, 3 years after Hemingway’s death. A moveable feast - The Book
  • “The Sun also rises” by Hemingway (1926) – The novel of the Lost Generation  – The setting at the beginning of the book takes place in Paris. – Hemingway’s first novel, written while he was in Paris and which established him as a writer of genius.Fiesta-The-Sun-Also-Rises-by-Ernest-Hemingway_[4665]_568
  • “The Paris’ wife“ – by Paula Mc Lain – The story of Hadley and Hemigway’s relationship from its beginning to its heartbreaking endingThe_Paris_Wife_book_cover
  • “Midnight in Paris” (2011) – the movie, by Woody Allen. “A moveable feast” has provided inspiration for Woody Allen’s movie. Midnight in Paris is set in the Paris of the 1920s as portrayed in Hemingway’s memoir The movie features the figures of Hemingway, Gertrude Stein, F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald and uses the phrase “A moveable Feast’ in 2 sentences. Hemingway in Midnight in Paris
  • “Paris without end : the true story of Hemingway’s wife” by Gioia Diliberto
  • “The Paris‘ husband” by Scott Donaldson (2018)
  • “Hemingway in Love, his own story” a book by AE Hotchner (one of his close friends)
  • And I invite you to read this article : Ernest Hemingway in Love 
  • HOTEL d’ANGLETERRE : You can stay in the hotel where Hemingway and Hadley stayed during their first days in Paris. The room (room 14) is unchanged. It has to be reserved far in advance – 44 rue Jacob – Paris 6 – Website of the hotel d’Angleterre https://www.hotel-dangleterre.com

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    Room 14 – Hotel d’Angleterre – 44 rue Jacob – Paris 6

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MORE PHOTOS

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Where Hemingway like to stroll and shop

 

Sylvia Beach & Adrienne Monnier

Sylvia Beach and Adrienne Monnier at Shakespeare and Company (the original bookshop !)

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Ernest Hemingway at his desk, working

EH5180 Paris Years:1922-1930 Ernest Hemingway wearing hat and holding John (Bumby) Hemingway. Series 03. Paris Years, 1922-1930. Box 3, Folder 21. Please Credit: "Ernest Hemingway Photograph Collection. John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, Boston."

Ernest Hemingway  holding John (Bumby) Hemingway.
Please Credit: “Ernest Hemingway Photograph Collection. John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, Boston.”

Hadley et Bumby

Hadley with Bumby in their Montparnasse apartment

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Shakespeare and Company, the original bookshop in Saint Germain des Prés

Ernest Hemingway with his son Bumpy (Jack), Paris 1925 -by Man Ray

Ernest Hemingway with his son Bumpy (Jack), Paris 1925

 

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Gertrude Stein, who welcomed, support and helped Hemingway

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5Sep

Chapel of our Lady of the Miraculous Medal

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: Non classé Places
6 Comments
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I thought that you, my Facebook friends, fans, subscribers and visitors to Paris may be interested in this Chapel, especially if you’re Catholic  : 2 million people from all over the world visit this chapel every year. Though  the Chapel of our Lady of the Miraculous Medal yet remains unknown to many residents in Paris. I must admit that I have known  that this Chapel existed for a few years only…  More details about Catherine Labouré and the medal, below

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The Chapel of our Lady of the miraculous Medal is one of the most important places of Prayer and Catholic pilgrimage  in Paris. It draws believers from all over the world. IMG_9698

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The Chapel : the chapel was built in 1815 and was dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus. It’s located in the heart of Paris at 140 rue du Bac. At the end of a little courtyard, behind the Bon Marché department store. 001Chapelle-rue-du-Bac

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Sainte Catherine Labouré (1806 – 1876) : She was born in a family of farmers in Burgundy. When she was 9, her mother died and at 12, she had to work on the farm and she did not learn to read and write until she was 18. She wanted to consecrate her  life to God and to the poor, but her father refused to let her go and sent her to Paris to work as a cook and servant. But later,  she became a member of the Company of daughters of Charity and in 1830,  she was then 24, she began her formation at 140 rue du Bac (where the Chapel is). In 1830, it’s claimed that the Virgin Mary  appeared to Catherine Labouré  in a series  of 3 miraculous apparitions that took place in the Chapel. The young novice seminary sister was told to have a medal made, that would protect and grace those who wore it. The first Miraculous Medals were made in 1832. IMG_9690

The same year, a cholera epidemic plagued Paris and the medals’ popularity spread rapidly as wearers of the medal apparently found themselves miraculously cured or protected from the deadly disease.  It did not take Parisian long to call it the “Miraculeus Medal”.

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Catherine Labouré when old

Catherine Labouré, was beatified in 1933 and her body moved to a reliquary beneath the altar to the right of the main altar of the Chapel. 

The Incorrupt Body of Catherine Laboure

The incorrupt body of Saint Catherine Labouré

This is the incorrupt body of Saint Catherine Labouré entombed in a glass coffin.

 

On the second apparition , a woman of exceptional beauty appeared to Catherine Labouré, holding in her hands a small golden globe with a cross on top, rays of light emanating from her hands. it seemed to be in a picture, then the picture turned and on the reverse, she saw the letter M surmounted by a cross and on the bottom the hearts of Jesus and Mary. Catherine, then thought she had a mission : to have a Medal made, rich in symbols. 290px-Miraculous_medal

 

The medal :

On the back of the medal, a letter and drawings : The letter M is surmounted by a cross. The M is Mary’s initial and the cross is the Cross of Christ. There are two hearts at the bottom, on encircled by the crown of thorns  (the Sacred Heart of Jesus) and the other pierced by a sword ( = the immaculate Heart of Mary, his Mother). Twelve stars  are engraved around the medal’s edge (The twelve apostles and thus the Church).278_002

Roman Catholics around the world still wear the medal today. 

 

 

Practical details : Plan - Situation Chapelle Médaille miraculeuse

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This is what you see from the street at the “140 rue du Bac”

Chapel of our Lady of the Miraculous Medal – 140, rue du Bac – 75007 Paris – Metro Stop : Sèvres Babylone – Lines : 10 or 12. The chapel is at the end of a corridor/courtyard. The Chapel is nearby the Bon Marché department store.IMG_9700

 

Website (in English) : www.chapellenotredamedelamedaillemiraculeuse.com/langues/english/the-chapel-of-our-lady-of-the-miraculous-medal/

Opening hours (of the Chapel) : 

  • 7.45am-1pm & 2.30-7pm Mon & Wed-Sun –  7.45am-7pm on Tuesday 
  • On public holidays (8.15am-12.30pm and 2.30pm-7pm)  (please check these opening hours before you visit the Chapel, as it may have changed)

Opening hours of the shop (for the medal) : (If I remember well, there is a large range of price from under 10 euros or even less to much more. It depends on the metal)IMG_9699

 

Mass hours : IMG_9704

This chapel is located nearby the Bon Marché. The Bon Marché is the oldest Paris’ department store. 

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27May

SAINT SULPICE : an impressive church.

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: Places
4 Comments
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Saint Sulpice is  a Roman Catholic church.  The second largest church in Paris (just behind Notre Dame). It is located in the heart of the 6th arrondissement, on the edge of Saint Germain des Prés neighborhood.PA270065-1

It took 135 years and 6 architects to finish Saint Sulpice. The construction began in 1646 and was mostly complete by 1745. The neoclassical façade was only started in 1733 by the Italian architect Servandoni.

Mismatched towers

The 2 towers are different. The North tower was restored and extended, but the French Revolution stopped the work, so the South tower remained unfinished. This is the reason why the south tower is lower (68 meters) than the north one (73 meters).DSC_8579

Le gnomon :

It is an astronomical instrument of the 18th century. It is  composed of a white marble obelisk and a narrow brass strip that continues across the church floor in a north-south direction . It represents the meridian line. It was drown in 1743 to provide the exact time of day, to determine the date, and improve the accuracy of certain astronomical data. On a clear day, when  at its highest point, a ray of light  enter the church through a small opening in the south transept and shine down on the line at various points depending on the time of year. 

On the winter solstice, at noon, the rays hit the brass line  on the obelisk. On the Spring and autumn equinoxes, at noon, it touches a plate of copper  in the floor near the altar. The obelisk bears a Latin inscription that describes the use of the meridian line.

The gran organ

This impressive Great Organ was installed in 1781 and renovated and enlarged in the 1860’s. It is famous on account of its size and the exceptional quality of its sound. It is one of the world’s largest. Saint Sulpice is still known for its music today and frequent concerts are held here. It has been classified as a historic monument since 1905

The Pulpit

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Frescoes (1855-61) by Eugène Delacroix

The first chapel (Chapel of the Holy Angels) near the main entrance (on the right) is decorated with Delacroix paintings. During the Révolution, the Church was damaged. It was restored and redecorated in the 19th century with the help of Eugène Delacroix.

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  • The Delacroix paintings are currently under renovation and thus cannot be seen.
  • Eugène Delacroix was a French painter,and one of the leaders of the Romantic Movement. His “Liberty Leading the People” (La Liberté guidant le peuple”) became a symbol of the Republic His work is exhibited at the Louvre and the Musée Eugène Delacroix.

DaVinciCodeOne of the settings of Da Vinci Code :

Saint Sulpice was a key location in Dan Brown’s famous 2003 novel “The Da Vinci Code”. Consequently, Saint Sulpice church became even more popular with visitors.

The gnomon is a narrow brass strip that the monk uses as a reference point in his quest for the Grall.

  • Some things linked to Da Vinci Code that you won’t find in Saint Sulpice :
    • The rosace mentioned in the Da Vinci Code” novel,  doesn’t exist…
    • There is no hollow space under the line on the floor of the church !
    • And the line doesn’t mark the site of a former pagan temple !

Did you know ?

Did you know that Victor Hugo and Adèle Foucher got married in this church ?

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Victor Hugo (1802 – 1885)

The fountain : “La fontaine des 4 points cardinaux”

In the church square, a fountain by Visconti (1844) bears sculptures of four bishops of the Louis XIV era.

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Pratical informations2016-05-27 - Plan situation Eglise Saint Sulpice

  • Address : Place Saint Sulpice – Paris 6  –  Metro : Saint Sulpice – Line 4 – website : www.pss75.fr/saint-sulpice-paris/
  • Opening time : 8:30am – 8 pm – Free admission
  • Free guided tours : every Sunday at 2.30pm (in French)
  • Mass timetable : Sundays : 7am, 9am, 11am, 6:45pm   Weekdays : 7am, 9am, 12.05am, 6:45pm
  • Weekly free Organ concerts : on Sundays and High Holy days : 15 minutes before the 11.am Mass, during Mass and for 30 minutes after Mass. The Montly programm is available at the Sacristy.
  • Sunday afternoon or evening recitals : consult the website : www.stsulpice.com/

Nearby : 

  • “Café de la Mairie” :  8 Place Saint Sulpice – Opening times: Mon – Fri from 7am to 2am | Sat from 8am to 2am | Sun from 9am to 9pm. It’s the haunt fo regulars, a place attracting big publishers and their writers, but a genuine Parisian local café with an outdoor terrace. A lively place at any time. For a drink, a pastry, or a light meal. …  The café was the setting for the film “La Discrète” by Christian Vincent (1990), starring Fabrice Luchini and Maurice Garrel. 
  • High range brands : In the close vicinity :
    •  Yves Saint Laurent – 6 place Saint Sulpice
    • Jean-Charles de Castelbajac – 6 place Saint Sulpice
    • Christian Lacroix – 2-4 place Saint Sulpice
    • Annie Goutal (perfumes) – 6 place Saint Sulpice
    • and many others
  • Pierre Hermé (The first shop of one of the most famous French pastry chef) : 72, rue Bonaparte – Paris 6 (100 meters from thechurch). You must be patient because most of the time, people are queuing in front of Pierre Hermé’s shop to buy some of his famous pastries !
  • A La Mère de famille (the oldest sweet shop in Paris ) : 70 rue Bonaparte – Paris 6 (100 meters from the church)
  • Gerard Mulot – a great shop for pastries – 76 rue de Seine – Paris (about 300 meters from Saint Sulpice church)
  • Musée Eugène Delacroix – rue de Furstenberg – Paris 6 – Metro stop : Saint Germain des Prés (about 15 minutes on foot)
  • Saint Germain des Prés neighborhood – Saint Germain des Prés church (the heart of this neighborhood) is at about 10 minutes on foot. 

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Saint Sulpice church

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My advice :

  • The square itself is a nice place to relax and contemplate the surroundings. The “Café de la Mairie” is also a great place for a drink and people-watching (but often lots of people especially on sunny days)
  • If you are interested in music, it is worth visiting the church for an organ recital (Auditions du Dimanche). The church is supposed to have one of the best acoustics in all Paris (or maybe the best). 
  • The neighborhood is beautiful with architecture gems in the little streets around. 

profil-paris-avec-oiseauxThe “Grand classic” walking tour in Saint Germain des Prés with Ann Jeanne in Paris

  • l1008109A private tour in one of the most classic and elegant part of Paris. Saint Germain des Prés is synonymous with chic and Parisian culture.Along our way :

    One of oldest church in Paris, Hemingway’s favorite restaurant, where Sartre used to live, one of the oldest church in Paris, a chocolate shop which opened more than 250 years ago, a strange art gallery which exhibits only one work of art at a time, the favorite café where Fine art students still use to meet, the café where Sartre and Beauvoir used to philosophize and write , you’ll taste among the best macarons in the city of light, and if you choose to, some beautiful cream puffs too from a shop specialized in this pastry. You’ll see (and visit if you’d like to) the studio where Delacroix used to live and paint, the oldest café in Paris, the exact place where the guillotine was first tried, you’ll walk in a charming cobblestone alleyway…etc

    A tour with Ann Jeanne in Paris is also a way to meet a Parisian and to know more about Paris culture and everyday life, and to experience Paris as a true Parisian. And I will answer your questions to help you to get the most of your stay in Paris (tips, informations…)

    Half day or whole day private tour to experience Paris and Saint Germain des Prés as a true Parisian contact me

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Saint Sulpice on a rainy night

 

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17May

Saint Germain des Prés : a GRAND CLASSIC

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: Paris Neighborhoods Tours
7 Comments
Saint Germain des Prés

Café Le Flore

The “grand classic” private walking tour in Saint Germain des Prés with Ann Jeanne in Paris

On the left bank, Saint Germain des prés is renowned for its famous cafes, its narrow streets and antique shops.. After World War II, Saint Germain des Pres became synonymous of intellectual life, centered around bars and cafes.

Saint Germain des Prés reached its heyday in the 50s

Philosophers, writers, actors and musicians used to meet and stay in cafes, clubs… : Hemingway, Miller, Picasso, Jim Morrison, Sartre; Beauvoir… Literature, poetry, and Jazz perfumed all the lifestyle in the area.

Among this neighborhood’s regulars (random list) : Hemingway, Picasso, Miller, Sartre, Beauvoir, Ellington, Hampton, Miles Davis, Jim Morrison, Oscar Wilde, Delacroix, Gertrude Stein, Boris Vian, Verlaine, Rimbaud, Mallarmé, Cocteau, Duras, Prévert, Johnny Depp, F F Coppola, Camus, James Joyce…

The leading figures of the time have now gone, but you still feel the special atmosphere of this quarter of Paris. In Saint Germain des Pres  : lots of restaurants, cinemas, antique shops, galeries… Though today, you’ll find haute-couture, and fashion shops too (Vuitton, Armani, Dior…)

Saint Germain des Prés : the Kingdom of iconic cafés : 

The most famous cafes of the area are : Le cafe de Flore, les Deux Magots, Le Bonaparte, La Palette, the café Procope (the oldest Paris’ café, actually a restaurant nowadays) the Brasserie Lipp…

Nice XVIII century buildings, cobblestone streets…And  the Saint Germain des Pres Church which is one of the oldest church of Paris.

Today, a very classic, elegant and trendy area.

My advice : 

  • No specific monuments except Saint Germain des Prés church, but in my opinion a great area to feel what Paris life is. Very liked by Parisians, and great cafés for cafés lovers. A neighborhood to stroll in. In Saint Germain des Prés, everything is a classic. And so much History.
  • Don’t miss “Le Flore” or its sister “Les 2 Magots” nearby the church, two classics. And if you’ve some time left, either carry on to the river Seine (northern Saint Germain des Prés), or to Saint Sulpice church (southern StGermain des Prés) and Pierre Hermé for a gorgeous pastry (nearby Saint Sulpice – Rue Bonaparte).

 

Some addresses :

  • Capture d’écran 2016-05-17 à 03.03.56Laduré (pastry very well know for its macarons) : pastry shop and tea room : rue Jacob (100 meters from Saint Germain church)
  • Pierre Hermé (pastry – maybe the best in France) : rue Bonaparte – Métro Saint Sulpice or Odeon (both line 4)
  • Gerard Mulot (pastry) : 76 rue de Seine (on your way to Saint Sulpice) www.gerard–mulot.com
  • Le Flore and Les 2 Magots (iconic Paris cafés)  : boulevard Saint Germain des Prés – Métro Saint Germain des prés (line 4)
  • L’Avant Comptoir : place de l’Odeon – Metro stop Odeon – for a snack, a crêpe or a gaufre. Métro Odéon (line 4)

profil-paris-avec-oiseaux

 

The Saint Germain des Prés private walking tour with Ann Jeanne in Paris. 

l1008109A private  tour in one of the most classic and elegant part of Paris. Saint Germain des Prés is synonymous with chic and Parisian culture. 

Along our way : 

One of oldest church in Paris, Hemingway‘s favorite restaurant, where Sartre used to live, one of the oldest church in Paris, a chocolate shop which opened more than 250 years ago, a strange art gallery which exhibits only one work of art at a time, the favorite café where Fine art students still use to meet, the café where Sartre and Beauvoir used to philosophize and write , you’ll taste among the best macarons in the city of light, and if you choose to, some beautiful cream puffs too from a shop specialized in this pastry. You’ll see (and visit if you’d like to) the studio where Delacroix used to live and paint, the oldest café in Paris, the exact place where the guillotine was first tried, you’ll walk in a charming cobblestone alleyway…etc 

A tour with Ann Jeanne in Paris is also a way to meet a Parisian and to know more about Paris culture and everyday life, and to experience Paris as a true Parisian. And I will answer your questions to help you to get the most of your stay in Paris (tips, informations…)

Half day or whole day private tour to experience Paris and Saint Germain des Prés as a true Parisian contact me

Henri Leroux - Saint Germain des Prés

The oldest café in Paris

felix_nadar_1820-1910_portraits_eugene_delacroix_restored

Eugène Delacroix used to live in Saint Germain des Prés

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8Feb

“Cafe Laurent”, a 17th century cafe in Saint Germain des Pres – Paris

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: Cafés-Pastries
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Champagne with raspberry liqueur

A former 17th century townhouse

The Cafe Laurent is located in Saint Germain des Prés neighborhood, a stone throw from the Seine, in the Hotel d’Aubusson, a 17th century building.

It’s a bar with an elegant and cosy interior,  furnished in Louis XV and Regency antiques with a large fireplace lounge, just next to the bar and an enclosed patio.

You can attend a live Jazz evening at the Cafe Laurent, on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays.

Take a quick walk in the Café Laurent with this 50 secondes video : 

Some History

The Cafe Laurent first opened in 1690. Amongst its customers : Robespierre, Rousseau and Voltaire.

After WWII, in 1947, it was rename “Le Tabou” and became a real legend on the Saint Germain des Prés scene

After Le Flore or « Les 2 magots », had closed their doors for the night, it was the haunt of the existentialists. The intellectuals, the musicians and poets of Saint Germain and Montparnasse used to come to Le Tabou.

doisneau_robert-le_tabou_paris_circa_1950~OM071300~10505_20080622_11510_144

©Robert Doisneau

Amongst the regulars : Boris Vian, Jean Cocteau, the legendary jazz musician players Miles Davis and Louis Amstrong, Juliette Gréco, Camus, Jean Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir, Yves Montand, Simone Signoret … And also Juliette Greco*, the muse of the Saint Germain des Prés 50s.

Le Tabou en et BlancIn 1948, the cafe changed its style and became a closed Jazz club. The intellectuals left Le Tabou and chose to go to a newly opened club : Le Club Saint Germain (rue Saint Benoit). But “Le Tabou” remained a very popular Jazz club.

In the 80’s, and until the end of the Le Tabou was still a iconic club where people used to go dancing, but on different styles of music (often disco). A club where I used to go. The Tabou closed its doors in the late 90s.

It has now reverted to its original name, Café Laurent and hosts regular jazz evenings. The cellar in the Hotel D’Aubusson is now a room dedicated to seminars

What  did Le Tabou look like ?

Le Tabou was a cellar club downstairs bar. The entrance door to Le Tabou opened directly on Rue Dauphine. Upstairs, there was a cloakroom, toilets and a small bar. Down the stairs, was the cellar club, a beautiful vaulted cellar. There was a tiny stage at the far end, a dance floor and a bar at the other end.

Who is Juliette Gréco ?

Juliette Gréco, a French singer became a symbol of French intellectuals after WWII : the muse of the existentialists (she invent the word. Juliette Gréco is still very popular. 

My advice

  • Le Cafe Laurent is a confortable bar with a wonderful service and welcoming.
  • This is the place to come and enjoy some live jazz music and have a cocktail (cocktails with champagne and many others)
  • The evening you go to Café Laurent, you could take a walk  Saint Germain des Prés neighborhood, an historic, classic and quite sophisticated part of Paris. A charming part of the city.
  • For a private visit of Saint Germain des Prés neighborhood with Ann Jeanne in Paris, a native parisian, please contact me for more details

Practical informationsCarte repérage Café Laurent

  • Café Laurent / Hôtel d’Aubusson – 33 rue Dauphine – Paris 6 – 01 43 29 43 43
  • Opened everyday from 9am to midnight. Métro stop : Odéon, Mabillon ou Pont-Neuf
  • Live Jazz : every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights. From 6pm. Music starts at 9.30 pm. Free entry (You just have to order a drink)
  • Drinks from 10 euros.

 

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13Aug

Jim Morrison

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: People
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e - Jim-Morrison

Jim Morrison (1965 – 1971), was the legendary lead singer and songwriter of The Doors

Born on December 8, 1943, in Melbourne, Florida. He studied film at UCLA, where he met the members of what would become the Doors. In 1971, Morrison left the Doors to write poetry and moved to Paris where he died.

Jim Morrison’s Paris locations :

Le Bar Alexandre : Jim Morrison used to come to this bar. Bar Alexandre – 53 avenue Georges V 75008 – Metro Georges V (now a Louis Vuitton shop)

Hotel Georges V :The 11th of March 1971, Jim moved into the Georges V where Pamela Courson his « fiancée » were already staying. Georges V hotel : 31 avenue Georges V – Paris 8 – Metro Georges V – www.fourseasons.com

Basilique du Sacré Coeur  (Montmartre) : Jim Morrison liked this place.Sacré Coeur - Paris 18

Sacré Coeur : 35 Rue du Chevalier de la Barre 75018 Paris – M : Abbesses

Café de Flore : One of Pamela Courson’s favorite cafés where the couple used to go sometimes. That where the last Jim Morrison interview was made.

Café de Flore  – 172 boulevard Saint Germain – Paris 6 – Métro Saint Germain

Les Deux Magots : Jim Morrison loves the Art Deco style of this café. He used to come here for dinner with the other members of The Doors. After Jim Morrison’s death, The Doors have kept on coming to this place.

Les 2 magotse6f193f1d2080eab7991e080db1dbd68

Les Deux Magots – Paris 6 (St Germain des Prés)

Les Deux Magots – 6 place St Germain des Prés – Paris 6 – Métro St Germain des Prés

L’Hôtel : In May 1971, Pamela and Jim came to spend a few days in this hotel, at the 2d floor. Jim Morrison asked for the same room as the one where Oscar Wilde died. One day, Jim Morrison, drunk, fell from the room on a car parked just below and luckily wasn’t injured. Hôtel des Beaux Arts – 13 rue des Beaux Arts – Paris 6 – Métro Saint Germain des Prés.  http://www.l-hotel.com 

La Palette : One of Jim Morrison’s favorite bar . He liked the old paintings decorating the walls. In this bar used to come Paul Cezanne, Pablo Picasso and Ernest Hemingway as well. This bar is a very nice and quaint place, but often crowded.

La palette

La Palette – Paris 6 (St Germain des Prés)

It is popular for its terrace that overlooks the street Jacques Callot. The restaurant’s façade and the interior of one of its salon are registered as historic monuments. It is traditionally a gathering place for Fine Arts students, gallery owners and artists. Nowadays, it is a place where Harrison Ford or Julia Roberts sometimes come. La Palette – 43 rue de Seine – Paris 6 – http://www.cafelapaletteparis.com/

Quai d’Anjou (on the north bank of the Saint Louis Island) : Jim Morrison likes to walk along the Seine, or rest on the Quai d’Anjou, to watch the boats and the people walking on the Pont Marie. He enjoys visiting the Hôtel de Lauzun, where Charles Beaudelaire, one of his favourite poets, used to come. Currently, this Hôtel, owned by the City, can’t be visited. Hôtel de Lauzun – 17 Quai d’Anjou – Paris 4 – Métro Sully MorlandQuai d'AnjouCapture d’écran 2015-08-11 à 00.30.28

17 rue Beautreillis (flat) : between st Paul street in the Marais and Bastille. Where Jim and Pamela have lived for a while at the 3d floor (French 3d floor – American 4th floor) . It’s where Jim Morrison wrote ‘Observations of America while on trial for Obscenity ». It’s the appartment where Jim Morrison supposedly died in 1971 at the age of 27, according to official reports. It says that he and his girl friend had been going the night before to the movies and returned home. In the middle of the night, Morrison awoke and took a bath, where his girl firend found him dead. The death certificate indicates a heart failure. The building is a Hausmannian-style apartment facade

17 rue Beautreillis

17 rue Beautrellis – Paris 4

Le Beautreillis (restaurant) : a restaurant, nearby their apartment, where Jim used to come to eat with Pamela, his fiancée. Now it’s a restaurant called « Le Dindon en Laisse » – 16 rue Beautreillis – Paris 4 – Métro Sully Morland/Bastille

Vins des Pyrénées : a wine shop, close to where Jim Morrison used to live. He liked particularly white wine Bordeaux. It’s now a restaurant called the same name. Vin des Pyrénées – 25 rue Beautreillis – Paris 4 – Metro Sully Morland/Bastille

Rue saint Antoine : Where Jim Morrison liked to buy food. Rue Saint Antoine – Paris 4 – Metro St Paul/Bastille

Place des Vosges : One of Jim’s favorite places in Paris. It’s close to his flat, right in the center of the city. He comes there to write poetry, to rest on a bank. That’s where he wrote « Wilderness » and « La nuit Americaine ». Place des Vosges – 14 place des Vosges – Paris 4 – Chemin Vert

Place des Vosges

Place des Vosges – Paris 4

Père Lachaise cimetery (south-east of Paris – Where Jim Morrison’s grave is located).  Jim Morrison spent half a day on Père Lachaise, less than a week before he died and saw the graves of Oscar Wolde, Edith Piaf, Balzac and Chopin. He was with a friend and told him that he would like to be buried in this cemetery. His funeral took place on the July the 7th 1971. The funeral was disgraceful : About 10 persons only where there. 10 minutes long. No priest was present, no prayer was said. No speech. Just a few final words by Agnès Varda. Everybody left in a hurry and never returned.  A white statue has been put not before 1981, stolen in 1988.

Two cameras (video) now, are constantly watching the grave 24 hours a day. Jim Morrison’s grave is one of the top tourist destination : the 4th most visited Paris location (after the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame and Beaubourg Center)

Père Lachaise
cimetery – Rue du Repos – 75020 Paris – Metro: Philippe Auguste (better than Metro Père Lachaise) – Opened Monday-Friday form 7.30am – 6pm, on Saturdays : 8.30 – 6pm Sunday : 9am – 6 pm

x - Plan Père Lachaise - Capture d’écran 2015-08-10 à 23.39.22

 

My advice : 

  • Follow Pierre Bayle street up right next to Le Celtic bar. It leads to the walls of Père Lachaise. You turn left into Rue du Repos until you see a smal gate on your right. You get into the cemetery ghrough this gate and follow the way on your right.
  • Ji’m’s grave is in the 6th division, second line.
  • A lot of visitors, guided tours, tourists. So for a quiet time, you should be there very early.Jim Morrison quote Capture d’écran 2015-08-11 à 00.00.22

 

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21Jul

HEMINGWAY in Paris

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: People
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Ernest-Hemingway-quote

01 - Photo Hemingway - a moveable feast

Ernest HEMINGWAY :

1918 – La Madeleine (Metro : Madeleine)

First place for Hemingway in Paris : in 1918, Hemingway, a U.S. Red Cross volunteer at the time, found himself in front of the damaged façade of the church.

Hemingway in Saint Germain des Prés :

  • In 1921, Hemingway and his first wife, Hadley, arrived in Paris and stayed in the “Hôtel d’Angleterre” ( room 14 – 44 rue Jacob – Paris 6) – Metro Saint Germain des Prés), recommended by the American writer, Sherwood Anderson, who also gave him letters of introduction to Gerturde Stein, James Joyce, and to the publisher Sylvia Beach.
    Hemingway often enjoyed coming to “Le Pré aux Clercs”, a cafe located nearby the Hôtel d’Angleterre, (30, rue Bonaparte – Paris 6 – Opening hours : 7/7 8am – 2am)
  • Brasserie Lipp (151 boulevard Saint Germain – Paris 6 – Metro Mabillon)  Hemingway was very fond of this place.
  • Michaud (= now called : “Le Comptoir des Saints-Pères”) in Saint Germain des Prés (corner of rue Jacob and rue des   Saints-Pères) – A restaurant
  • Cafe de Flore, 172 boulevard Saint Germain – Metro Saint Germain des Prés: After the war, Hemingway used to come to the Coupole regularly.
  • Les Deux Magots, 6 place Saint Germain des Prés – Metro Saint Germain des Prés : One of the oldest cafes in Paris. Among its regulars : Verlaine, Rimbaud, Stéphane Mallarmé, Picasso, Oscar Wilde, André Malraux and Antoine de Saint Exupéry.

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Hemingway in Montparnasse :

  • 1924 – Hemingway moves in a flat near the Luxembourg Gardens (113, rue Notre-Dame-des -Champs – Metro Vavin)
  • La Rotonde (105, boulevard Montparnasse – Paris 14 – Metro Vavin) : That’s where he sometimes meets Henry Miller, Scott Fitzgerald and George Gershwin
  • Les Blés d’Ange (boulangerie) – 151 boulevard du Montparnasse – Metro Vavin : That’s where Hemingway was buying his pastries. It was easy for him to get there as it was opposite his house by Notre Dame des Champs.
  • La Closerie des Lilas**   Article about the Luxembourg Gardens : coming next°°° (171, boulevard Montparnasse – RER : Port Royal or Metro : Vavin) He wrote that it was “one of the best cafes in Paris” and it became his “home cafe”. Others writers used to come at the Closerie des Lilas such as Modigliani, Pablo Picasso, Oscar Wilde, Verlaine, Gide, Aragon, Fitzgerald, Sartre, Beckett. Earlier, other famous regulars used to come in this cafe such as : Zola, Gautier, Baudelaire, Honoré de Balzac… That’s where Hemingway wrote his short stories. That’s also where he used to come after splitting up with this first wife, Hadley.
  • Le Select°°°° (99 boulevard Montparnasse – Metro Vavin) – Ernest Hemingway often start his day with breakfast at the Select. He also set several scenes in his novel “The Sun also Rises” (1926) here
  • The Dôme ( 108, boulevard Montparnasse – Paris 14 – Metro Vavin) : Hemingway loved this cafe because often frequented by writers, painters, and artists’ models, such as Gauguin, Modigliani, Kandinsky, Picasso, Miller, Nin and Man Ray.
  • La Coupole, 102 boulevard Montparnasse – Paris 14 – Metro Vavin
  • The Dingo Bar ( = today : “Auberge de Venise” – 10 rue Delambre – Paris 14 – Metro Vavin) : That’s where Hemingway met Scott Fitzgerald for the first time. Where Picasso, and Jean Cocteau used to go as well
  • Hotel Venitia (no longer exists. Now, t’s a travel bookshop) 159 boulevard Montparnasse – Paris 14– Metro Port Royal, Vavin or Raspail
  • Ernest-Hemingway-quote

  • Hemingway and the Luxembourg Gardens** and museum (Metro : Luxembourg or Vavin)

    • This was Hemingway’s favorite place to walk. That’s where he would  often meet Gertrude Stein (The American writer, poetess and feminist) who was walking her dog there.
    • He also enjoyed admiring the impressionist paintings in the Luxembourg museum.  In “A moveable feast” he wrote : “I was learning something from the paintings of Cezanne that made writing simple true sentences far from enough to make the stories have the dimensions that I was trying to put in them. I was learning very much from him…”

——————-

Hemingway in the Latin quarter :

This neighborhood inspired ‘s greatest early works.

  • 1922-1923 : Ernest Hemingway and his wife, Hadley rented a very modest 2 rooms flat on the 3rd floor at 74, rue Cardinal Lemoine (Paris 5 – Metro Cardinal Lemoine). Hemingway described this place in “The Snows of Kilimanjaro”.
  • Then he rented a studio, (39, rue Descartes – Paris 5 – Metro Cardinal Lemoine) in the attic in a four-story house. There was a small restaurant Chez Verlaine, on the ground floor.

About that time, Hemingway wrote : “I was always hungry with the walking and the cold and the working”.

  • Café des Amateurs (today “Café Delmas”, 2 place de la Contrescarpe – Paris 5 – Metro Cardinal Lemoine).  Hemingway wasn’t very fond of the place because regularly frequented by drunks from the neighboring houses, but started “A moveable feast” with the description of the Amateurs : “The Cafe des Amateurs was the cesspool of the rue Mouffetard, that wonderful narrow crowded market street which led into the Place Contrescarpe.”

(Nearby, the “Rue Mouffetard”, one of the Paris’s oldest and liveliest streets, with a number of cafes, restaurants and a famous open market.)

  • Shakespeare and Company :  Sylvia Beach, the owner, gave him a borrowing card allowing him to take as many books as he wanted. In “A moveable Feast” Hemingway writes : “She had pretty legs and she was kind, cheerful and interested, and loved to make jokes and gossip. No one that I ever knew was nicer to me.”hemingway_bookshop devant Shakespeare

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Other Hemingway’s locations 

Hotel Ritz – 15 place Vendôme – Paris 1 – Metro Tuileries : The bar at the Ritz was one of Hemingway’s favorite place. He spent  many evenings there with Scott Fitzgerald. To commemorate its guest, the bar was named after Hemingway.

69 rue Froidevaux – Paris 14 – Metro Gaité or Denfert Rochereau : The second apartment where he lived with his second wife, Pauline Pfeiffer.

A-Moveable-Feast-e1354045713964

 

AND…… : Do you REMEMBER HEMINGWAY in “MIDNIGHT IN PARIS”  ?

ernesthemingway

 

 Article about La Closerie des Lilas 

**   Article about the Luxembourg Gardens : coming next

°°°° Article about Le Select coming next

 

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28May

Café de Flore

Posted by: afriendinparis Categories: Cafés-Pastries
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Café Le Flore

A famous and charming cafe… Probably the most famous and charming cafe in Paris. Though a touristic cafe too, Le Flore is a cafe where you’ll find Parisians, alone or with friends. Spending time discussing, watching the passers by. The Art Deco interior of this café, all-red seating, mahogany and mirrors, has changed little since the war.

Le Flore is located on the left bank of the river Seine, in Saint Germain des Prés neighborhood, nearby the Saint Germain des Prés church, one of the oldest Paris’ church. 

Le Flore offers tes, coffees, hot chocolates, alcoholic drinks and juices, snacks and full meals

A  bit of History :

Le Flore was opened in the 1880s

In the 1950s, french intellectuals used to come and stay there, talking about new philosophical ideas. Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir developed their philosophy of existentialism here.

In the 30’s, the gathering place for the surrealist, the publishers, the artists and directors.

After the WWII, Le Flore was the headquarter for the existentialists : Simone de Beauvoir, Jean-Paul Sartre, Boris Vian and writers and artists such as Ernest Hemingway, Picasso, Brigitte Bardot, Françoise Sagan, Romain Gary…

Nowadays, Le Flore is still a popular location for celebrities. Many artists, writers, intellectuals, politics use to come to “Le Flore”.  Since 1994 the “Prix de Flore”, a literary prize is awarded annually at the Café de Flore.

Practical details : 

Le Flore – 172 boulevard Saint-Germain – Paris 6 (at the corner of Boulevard St Germain and rue Saint Benoit)  Metro Stop : Saint Germain des Prés (line 4)

Below : a 40 secondes video about “Le Flore” (I am not on this video, nor filming it)

My advice : 

  • If you prefer to sit outside, choose the Saint Benoit street side of “Le Flore”, more “Parisian” and quiet.
  • You can buy Le Flore crockery if you wish to (cups,  saucers, glasses… etc with the words in green “Café de Flore”). Just ask a waiter who will show you the display case ). A nice gift to bring back home for your friends or family…. or yourself (!)
  • Nearby : “Les 2 magots”(the Flore’s sister), located in front of Saint Germain des Prés’s church. In “Les 2 magots” you can ask for a Pierre Hermé mille feuille which is gorgeous.

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