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On your next visit to Paris, I suggest you this walk with Ann Jeanne in Paris (me, native Parisian !) in an area, where you’ll have a real feel of a Paris’ neighborhood. An area where you’ll really experienced what Paris’ life is, in a both lively and quiet part of Paris. I suggest you this walk especially if you’ve already visited the main landmarks, such as Notre Dame, the Eiffel Tower…etc It’s one of the place where I would love to stay if I were visiting Paris … and actually it’s the area where I was born, where I grew up, where I went to the elementary school. A place where all the inhabitants could tell you how pleasant it is to live there…. I don’t know even one person here who would like to live anywhere else in Paris… All right, maybe, they would accept to live in Saint Germain des Prés, Montparnasse, or the Ile Saint Louis… Maybe…. !! But not sure…. ! I know the history of this part of Paris, how it changed, the little details which makes it how it is…etc…  You can click here to see the list of My tours      (This tour is called “From Daguerre to Montsouris“)

Oh yes !… on this tour, you’ll see some ducks and swans too !!!

If you feel like having another experience of Paris… I should say… an even more parisian experience… a more insider experience, don’t hesitate to contact me. It would be a great pleasure to show you one of the best cheesemonger of Paris (I don’t think it’s in touristic guides but it’s in Parisian’s heart and mind !), a market so many parisian affectionate so much, the houses of many painters who used to live there in the 30s, a wonderful park, winding cobblestone streets with charming semi detached houses…………..and tell you so many things I know about this so parisian neighborhood… Don’t hesitate to contact me if you feel like experiencing “this Paris”. Contact

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A quiet time at the terrace of a cafe with a fur baby !

If you open markets, cobblestone streets, parks, the architecture and the artists of the 30s …

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You’ll like strolling in this neighborhood !

You’ve maybe never heard of Montsouris neighborhood before… Sometimes, it’s not even mentioned in Paris travel guides. Located in the South of Paris, up till the end of the 19th century and the huge transformation of the city by Napoleon III and the Baron Haussmann, this area was outside Paris.

P6120172-2It’s a  charming and cosy part of Paris, where you get the feeling of an authentic Paris

Carte Quartier Montsouris

Discover the Paris of the Parisians ! (Paris is not just about the Eiffel Tower and NotreDame ! )  IMG_6777

 

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A pedestrian market street with its shops alike an open market,  

  • One of the most beautiful and largest Paris’s parks
  • Cobblestones pedestrian streets with semi-detached houses,
  • the houses where George Braque, André Derain, Foujita, Henry Miller, Anaïs Nin, Salvador Dali, Chaim Soutine, Amédée Ozenfant, Antonin Artaud, André Derain, Chana Orloff (sculptor)... used to live, create and gather. I’ll show you their houses.
  • houses built by some of the most renowned architects of the 30s : Le Corbusier, Jean Lurçat, Auguste Perret.

When you book a tour with Ann Jeanne in Paris, I share with you my Paris, a real Paris so much appreciated by Parisians ! 

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Cobblestone alleyways

You’ll probably enjoy walking in the charming cobblestones narrow alleyways, where you feel like faraway from the city. A real provincial atmosphere.

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A pedestrian market street : a street so much liked by locals

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A “fromager” (cheese shop)

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Here some more images of this charming provincial atmosphere : 

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Famous artists of the 30s used to live in this neighborhood


Where they used to live, work and gather.

Buildings by renown architects

You’ll see buildings designed by Le Corbusier, Auguste Perret, Jean Lurçat… Several Art Deco style (not Art Nouveau) buildings, built between WWI and WWII. Some are listed as Historic Monuments.

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Some remains of the Roman timeRoman aqueduc

You’ll also see a piece of an acqueduc from the roman time. 

My advice :

  • If you like architecture and especially the Art Deco architecture (30s architecture), if you’d like to see where Fujita , Miller, Braque, Dali,Anaïs Nin, Derain,Soutine… and other renown artists used to live, you’ll enjoy a tour with Ann Jeanne in Paris in this area
  • You’ll  enjoy an open market, a walk in a park, you’ll see where artists of the 30s used to live and see a remain of the Roman time when Paris was still called Lutèce (2000 thousands years ago).

Visit Paris, with Ann Jeanne in Paris, native Parisian : 

  • You’d like to feel like a local and having a tour in a Paris neighborhood, but you don’t feel having a tour with a group ?
  • You’d like to discover Paris off the beaten path, get a real feel of an authentic Paris, and full of tips from a native ?
  • You’d like to see Paris in another perspective and to know more about Paris and Parisians?

Anne à Montsouris - Format original-2637WELCOME !

  • I’d be delighted to welcome you and share with you “my” Paris. And Paris will be “your” city too 🙂
  • The tours are private (with you only or you and the person you choose), at your pace. 
  • For more details : Ann Jeanne in Paris” tours,  Booking and Pricing

 


And in you’d fancy a photo session to bring back home amazing photos of yourself :

[For a photo session [Bring back pictures of yourself in Paris ) : click here]

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Les personalités (grille) de Montsouris-2

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Ernest HEMINGWAY :

1918 – La Madeleine (Metro : Madeleine)

First place for Hemingway in Paris : in 1918, Hemingway, a U.S. Red Cross volunteer at the time, found himself in front of the damaged façade of the church.

Hemingway in Saint Germain des Prés :

  • In 1921, Hemingway and his first wife, Hadley, arrived in Paris and stayed in the “Hôtel d’Angleterre” ( room 14 – 44 rue Jacob – Paris 6) – Metro Saint Germain des Prés), recommended by the American writer, Sherwood Anderson, who also gave him letters of introduction to Gerturde Stein, James Joyce, and to the publisher Sylvia Beach.
    Hemingway often enjoyed coming to “Le Pré aux Clercs”, a cafe located nearby the Hôtel d’Angleterre, (30, rue Bonaparte – Paris 6 – Opening hours : 7/7 8am – 2am)
  • Brasserie Lipp (151 boulevard Saint Germain – Paris 6 – Metro Mabillon)  Hemingway was very fond of this place.
  • Michaud (= now called : “Le Comptoir des Saints-Pères”) in Saint Germain des Prés (corner of rue Jacob and rue des   Saints-Pères) – A restaurant
  • Cafe de Flore, 172 boulevard Saint Germain Metro Saint Germain des Prés: After the war, Hemingway used to come to the Coupole regularly.
  • Les Deux Magots, 6 place Saint Germain des Prés – Metro Saint Germain des Prés : One of the oldest cafes in Paris. Among its regulars : Verlaine, Rimbaud, Stéphane Mallarmé, Picasso, Oscar Wilde, André Malraux and Antoine de Saint Exupéry.

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Hemingway in Montparnasse :

  • 1924 – Hemingway moves in a flat near the Luxembourg Gardens (113, rue Notre-Dame-des -Champs – Metro Vavin)
  • La Rotonde (105, boulevard Montparnasse – Paris 14 – Metro Vavin) : That’s where he sometimes meets Henry Miller, Scott Fitzgerald and George Gershwin
  • Les Blés d’Ange (boulangerie) – 151 boulevard du Montparnasse – Metro Vavin : That’s where Hemingway was buying his pastries. It was easy for him to get there as it was opposite his house by Notre Dame des Champs.
  • La Closerie des Lilas**   Article about the Luxembourg Gardens : coming next°°° (171, boulevard Montparnasse – RER : Port Royal or Metro : Vavin) He wrote that it was “one of the best cafes in Paris” and it became his “home cafe”. Others writers used to come at the Closerie des Lilas such as Modigliani, Pablo Picasso, Oscar Wilde, Verlaine, Gide, Aragon, Fitzgerald, Sartre, Beckett. Earlier, other famous regulars used to come in this cafe such as : Zola, Gautier, Baudelaire, Honoré de Balzac… That’s where Hemingway wrote his short stories. That’s also where he used to come after splitting up with this first wife, Hadley.
  • Le Select°°°° (99 boulevard Montparnasse – Metro Vavin) – Ernest Hemingway often start his day with breakfast at the Select. He also set several scenes in his novel “The Sun also Rises” (1926) here
  • The Dôme ( 108, boulevard Montparnasse – Paris 14 – Metro Vavin) : Hemingway loved this cafe because often frequented by writers, painters, and artists’ models, such as Gauguin, Modigliani, Kandinsky, Picasso, Miller, Nin and Man Ray.
  • La Coupole, 102 boulevard Montparnasse Paris 14 – Metro Vavin
  • The Dingo Bar ( = today : “Auberge de Venise” – 10 rue Delambre – Paris 14 – Metro Vavin) : That’s where Hemingway met Scott Fitzgerald for the first time. Where Picasso, and Jean Cocteau used to go as well
  • Hotel Venitia (no longer exists. Now, t’s a travel bookshop) 159 boulevard Montparnasse – Paris 14– Metro Port Royal, Vavin or Raspail
  • Ernest-Hemingway-quote
  • Hemingway and the Luxembourg Gardens** and museum (Metro : Luxembourg or Vavin)

    • This was Hemingway’s favorite place to walk. That’s where he would  often meet Gertrude Stein (The American writer, poetess and feminist) who was walking her dog there.
    • He also enjoyed admiring the impressionist paintings in the Luxembourg museum.  In “A moveable feast” he wrote : “I was learning something from the paintings of Cezanne that made writing simple true sentences far from enough to make the stories have the dimensions that I was trying to put in them. I was learning very much from him…”

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Hemingway in the Latin quarter :

This neighborhood inspired ‘s greatest early works.

  • 1922-1923 : Ernest Hemingway and his wife, Hadley rented a very modest 2 rooms flat on the 3rd floor at 74, rue Cardinal Lemoine (Paris 5 – Metro Cardinal Lemoine). Hemingway described this place in “The Snows of Kilimanjaro”.
  • Then he rented a studio, (39, rue Descartes – Paris 5 – Metro Cardinal Lemoine) in the attic in a four-story house. There was a small restaurant Chez Verlaine, on the ground floor.

About that time, Hemingway wrote : “I was always hungry with the walking and the cold and the working”.

  • Café des Amateurs (today “Café Delmas”, 2 place de la Contrescarpe – Paris 5 – Metro Cardinal Lemoine).  Hemingway wasn’t very fond of the place because regularly frequented by drunks from the neighboring houses, but started “A moveable feast” with the description of the Amateurs : “The Cafe des Amateurs was the cesspool of the rue Mouffetard, that wonderful narrow crowded market street which led into the Place Contrescarpe.”

(Nearby, the Rue Mouffetard”, one of the Paris’s oldest and liveliest streets, with a number of cafes, restaurants and a famous open market.)

  • Shakespeare and Company :  Sylvia Beach, the owner, gave him a borrowing card allowing him to take as many books as he wanted. In “A moveable Feast” Hemingway writes : “She had pretty legs and she was kind, cheerful and interested, and loved to make jokes and gossip. No one that I ever knew was nicer to me.”hemingway_bookshop devant Shakespeare

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Other Hemingway’s locations 

Hotel Ritz 15 place Vendôme – Paris 1 – Metro Tuileries : The bar at the Ritz was one of Hemingway’s favorite place. He spent  many evenings there with Scott Fitzgerald. To commemorate its guest, the bar was named after Hemingway.

69 rue Froidevaux – Paris 14 – Metro Gaité or Denfert Rochereau : The second apartment where he lived with his second wife, Pauline Pfeiffer.

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AND…… : Do you REMEMBER HEMINGWAY in “MIDNIGHT IN PARIS”  ?

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 Article about La Closerie des Lilas 

**   Article about the Luxembourg Gardens : coming next

°°°° Article about Le Select coming next