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Ernest Hemingway (1899-1961) is one of the greatest American 20th century novelists.   He is renowned for his spare but powerful waiting style. Famous for his novels like “The Sun also rises,A farewell to arms” and also for “A moveable feast”, the memoir of his Paris years, written later after he returned to United States. Hemingway won the Nobel prize in 1954.

Sean Hemingway, Ernest Hemingway’s grand-son, said that what’s remarkable about his writing is that he really formed the writing in his head very carefully before it comes out”

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Ernest Hemingway, a figure that seems to belong to Paris

Although Ernest Hemingway has lived in Paris for only a short time (from 1921 to 1928), he is a figure that will always be connected to Paris. ThiA moveable feast - The BookThis is where he started writing his first novel which was going to be published (“The Sun also rises”) and this is where he lived the 6 years he spent with Hadley Richardson, his first wife. It seems that his years with Hadley in Paris were among his happiest years of his life and though he was married four times, that Hadley stayed his only true love.

Hemingway Hadley and others

Hadley (in the center) – Hemingway (on the left side)

He wrote “A moveable feast”, the memoir of his Paris years,  long after his return to United States with the help of notes he had written while in Paris.

If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast. – Ernest Hemingway

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“A day with Hemingway” walk is a great way to discover Hemingway’s Paris  

To take this walk with me or to get more information : Don’t hesitate to contact me : here

Hem in Shakespear & co. snapshot by Sylvia Beech

Hemingway in Shakespeare and Company in Saint Germain des Prés – Photo by Sylvia Beach

The walk takes you to most of the places Hemingway frequented. I have listed more than 25 places that are spread mostly across 3 neighborhoods (the Latin Quarter, Saint Germain des Prés and Montparnasse). The Latin Quarter where his first apartment was located, Montparnasse (his 2d apartment) and Saint Germain des Prés (his last home). And in these 3 neighborhoods, numerous cafés, brasseries and places he frequented…Without counting the streets in which he loved to stroll.xrue-mouffetard-vintage-photo-736-2x1.jpg.pagespeed.ic.hI0eY3Xjmw

And what’s amazing,  is that much of Hemingway’s Paris still exists: the cafés that he frequented, the brasseries where he dined, the places where he wrote some of his best writing, the places where he lived… Many of these places are mentioned in “Paris is a moveable feast” (his Paris’ memoirs) and in “”the Sun also rises” too.

But not only ! …. You don’t have to be the greatest fan of Hemingway to enjoy this stroll.

It is a good excuse to explore Paris off the beaten path, while stopping at some of Hemingway’s favorite spots. 

And…  it takes you back in time : If you love the 1920s era, “A day with Hemingway” is a way to experience what Paris was like at that time. In the 1920s, many writers and artists from all over the world moved to Paris and the American writers were known as the Lost Generation.Le Dome - cover-2-1170x543

To get more information about “A day with Hemingway” walk, Don’t hesitate to contact mehere

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Hadley,  the woman Hemingway never stopped lovingHadley2One can’t speak or write about Hemingway’s Paris without mentioning Hadley. Hemingway and Hadley were the golden couple of Paris in the 1920s

Wedding Hadley et Hemingway

Hadley Richardson, the woman he left and the woman Hemingway never stopped loving

Hemingway and Hadley

Hemingway was married four times. One says that Hadley (his first wife from 1921 to 1927) was his only true love and that he cherished her throughout his life.  And no one can denied Hadley’s major influence on Hemingway’s work. And her presence is found in Hemingway’s writing

Hemingway with Hadley and son Jack ‘Bumby, Paris 1920s. Photo- JFK Library

with their son Jack, nicknamed “Bumby

They lived 6 years together, which is most of the years Hemingway spent in Paris

With Hadley

He met her in 1920s, in Chicago, at a friend’s apartment. He was 21, Hadley was 28. They got married in Horton Bay, Chicago. They moved to Paris in 1921, shortly after their wedding. But they divorced in 1927, soon after Hemingway had a love affair with Pauline Pffeifer, who soon became his second wife. Hemingway and Hadley : a true love story and a heartbreaking ending.

Hem Hadley et Bumby

In “A moveable feast” he wrote about the years he spent with Hadley : I am happy and without any remorse and I never worked better nor was I happier and I loved the girl truly”. He displayed his feeling for her again in the novel “Islands in the stream” and dedicated “The sun also rises” to her and their son. His friend, A.E. Hotchner said that Hemingway has been seeking his great love the rest of his life, and that his separation from Hadley had haunted him to the grave.

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 Places where this walk will take you : 

“A day with Hemingway” walk takes you mostly off the beaten paththrough the 3 main neighborhoods he frequented : the Latin Quarter, Saint Germain des Prés and Montparnasse.  Closerie des lilas en noir et Blanc

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Among the numerous spots we’ll stop at :  places where he lived, his favorite cafés and brasseries (often gathering spots of numerous artists and writers at that time),  the hotel where he spent his first days in Paris , the hotel where Hadley found herself alone with their son after Hemingway left her for Pauline (who was going to be his second wife)  , the cafe where he wrote most of “The Sun also rises” and many more

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To take this walk with me or to get more information : Dont’ hesitate to contact me : here

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How and why did I designed “A day with Hemingway” itinerary ?

I have always been passionate about knowing and visiting places where writers and artists lived and worked in Paris. I feel it’s a way to get closer to their writing, to get closer to the humans they were, a way to feel the city (rather that “visiting” it) and a way to get to know more about the history of Paris. And I had enjoyed reading the Hemingway books that are so associated to Paris (Especially “A moveable feast” but “The Sun also rises” too)Hemingway_à_Paris - Cardinal Lemoine

And it turns out that the 3 main neighborhoods that Hemingway frequented are my favorite too and those where I spent the most of my time in Paris. As you may know already (!), I am a “left bank” person. And it’s where I was born and raised and this is where I live now.
I have always known and frequented most of all the places mentioned by Hemingway in “A moveable feast”.

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However, before designing the tour, I sought out and checked all the addresses at which Hemingway had lived, every houses, hotels bars and restaurants, every street and block, I re-read his books* (the ones strongly linked to Paris, and I went again to all the “Hemingway’s addresses and hangouts. 

It was fun research and a real pleasure to work on designing this tour and it will be my pleasure to share it with you ! To take this walk with me or to get more information : Don’t hesitate to contact me : here

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A few notes about “A day with Hemingway” walk with AJIP

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My grand-parents in 1928 when they moved to the Latin Quarter

The Hemingway’s Latin Quarter : This is where Hemingway and Hadley settled in their first apartment in 1921, a very modest apartment in a working class neighborhood.      

With the exception of a few years, my grand-mother could have met Hemingway on the street or in a shop… !! For indeed, the street Hemingway used to go shopping was the one where my grand-mother loved to go to. And Hemingway and Hadley’s first apartment was located nearby the street where my grand-parents settled in the 30s

But Hemingway left Paris in 1928 (!), a short time after (one or two years) he divorced Hadley. And my grand-parents settled in this neighborhood around 1929… (!)

During our stroll through this part, we’ll see : a lively market street, the building where his first apartment was located, his favorite café located at a charming square. We’ll walk the same streets he used to walk to go either to the Luxembourg garden, to Gertrude Stein his friend and great supporter, or to the banks of the Seine. And we’ll pass by many other Hemingway’s spots

 

The as ever confident Hemingway, Paris 1922. Photo- Hemingway Collection

Hemingway in the courtyard of his 2d Paris home

Hemingway’s Montparnasse : a neighborhood where many artists lived, gathered and worked in the 1920s. It was the neighborhood of Hemingway‘s second apartment in Paris. Where he and Hadley moved  when they came back to Paris in 1927 (after their son was born in Toronto).779-rotonde-la

Of course, there was no chance for me to meet Hemingway (!!!!) , but the area where he lived (1924-1927) is my most favorite Paris area. The place where my secondary school was located and the neighborhood that I’ve so often preferently chosen, when a teenager, to meet my friends in cafés, to go to movie theaters and so on. A neighborhood I  favour, still now. And surely the area I’d like to choose if I had to change apartment.

When a teenager, I didn’t know about the rich history of Montparnasse… A few years later, I learnt about it, and it made me love Montparnasse even more

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Where Hemingway used to stroll

During our stroll  through Montparnasse, we’ll see : His second home with Hadley, the home of Ezra Pound, the 4 cafés he loved (among them the Closerie des Lilas where he wrote almost the whole of “The Sun also rises”, the place where he met Scott Fitzgerald for the first time, hthe location of Gertrude Stein apartment (where they used to meet and discuss), l’hotel where he started his love affair with Pauline Pffeifer, the location of the bakery where he used to go, the hotel where Hadley felt so lonely after they separated.

Hemingway’s Saint Germain des Prés : This is where Hemingway and Hadley stayed the first days they arrived in Paris. This is also where numerous of his favorite cafés and restaurants are located too. And this is where the original Shakespeare and Company (owned by Sylvia Beach) was located too (So this is not the actual Shakespeare and Company, rue de la Bûcherie, that opened in 1951,long after Hemingway left Paris).

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With Sylvia Beach (on the right side) at Shakespeare and Company

Sylvia Beach was the owner of this lending library/bookshop,  which played a major role in Hemingway’s life when in Paris, alike in many other writers’s life. It was a gathering place for artists and particularly the American expatriate community (J Joyce, Fitzgerald, Gertrude Stein and many more … ) Hemingway used to borrow books there.

One of my favorite places to meet friends, to wander by myself, to spend time in cafés, reading working dreaming.

During our stroll , we’ll see : the hotel where he stayed with Hadley during his first Paris days, the location of the original Shakespeare and Company, 2 restaurants he used to go regularly, 3 cafés he especially loved, his second home with Pauline, the Luxembourg Garden where he loved to wander, the location of the museum he used to go to and other spots

Some RECOMMENDATIONS AND SUGGESTIONS : BELOW on this page : Books, article and the hotel where Hemingway stayed when he arrived in Paris

MORE PHOTOS OF HEMINGWAY’s PARIS at the BOTTOM OF THIS PAGE

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 AJIP private walking tours

To take this walk with me or to get more information : Don’t hesitate to contact me : here

“A day with Hemingway” private walking tour, will take you from the Latin Quarter to Montparnasse, through Saint Germain des prés. We’ll walk the streets Hemingway used to walk and will stop at the places where he lived, at his favorite cafés and all the places that were important during his Paris years.02022019-IMG_9509

I’ll give you a small booklet with the list of the places we’ve seen and explored and in addition the list of the main other places he used to go to on the right bank (some of them he visited long after his Paris’ years) such as the Ritz.

“A day with Hemingway” walk, includes two breaks with a drink (included in the fees) in two of Hemingway’s favorite cafés

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  • If you prefer a shorter walk, we can focus on 2 of these 3 neighborhoods : any combination which suits you.  
  • The whole walk can be divided into two parts too (on two different days)

If you’re coming to Paris soon and feel like discovering the Paris of Hemingway, if you’re passionate about Paris in the 1920s, about discovering the city off the beaten path, wether you’re a fan of Hemingway or not, Don’t hesitate to contact me 

  • List of AJIP private toursHere  – Each of the tours can be customized according to your wishes and interests : 
  • About the booking and pricing: Here 

MORE PHOTOS OF HEMINGWAY’s PARIS at the BOTTOM OF THIS PAGE

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My recommendations and suggestions :

You don’t have to have read Hemingway’s books or his biographies to enjoy “A day with Hemingway”

But if you haven’t, our walk may make you want to know more about Hemingway’s life, about Hemingway’s work and about his love story with Hadley ! Here some suggestions

  • A moveable feast by Hemingway (his Paris’ memoir) – Written after his Paris years. Published in 1964 by Mary Hemingway, his 4th wife, 3 years after Hemingway’s death. A moveable feast - The Book
  • The Sun also rises by Hemingway (1926) – The novel of the Lost Generation  – The setting at the beginning of the book takes place in Paris. – Hemingway’s first novel, written while he was in Paris and which established him as a writer of genius.Fiesta-The-Sun-Also-Rises-by-Ernest-Hemingway_[4665]_568
  • The Paris’ wifeby Paula Mc Lain – The story of Hadley and Hemigway’s relationship from its beginning to its heartbreaking endingThe_Paris_Wife_book_cover
  • Midnight in Paris (2011) – the movie, by Woody Allen. “A moveable feast” has provided inspiration for Woody Allen’s movie. Midnight in Paris is set in the Paris of the 1920s as portrayed in Hemingway’s memoir The movie features the figures of Hemingway, Gertrude Stein, F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald and uses the phrase “A moveable Feast’ in 2 sentences. Hemingway in Midnight in Paris
  • Paris without end : the true story of Hemingway’s wifeby Gioia Diliberto
  • The Paris‘ husband by Scott Donaldson (2018)
  • Hemingway in Love, his own story a book by AE Hotchner (one of his close friends)
  • And I invite you to read this article : Ernest Hemingway in Love 
  • HOTEL d’ANGLETERRE : You can stay in the hotel where Hemingway and Hadley stayed during their first days in Paris. The room (room 14) is unchanged. It has to be reserved far in advance – 44 rue Jacob – Paris 6 – Website of the hotel d’Angleterre https://www.hotel-dangleterre.com

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    Room 14 – Hotel d’Angleterre – 44 rue Jacob – Paris 6

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MORE PHOTOS

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Where Hemingway like to stroll and shop

 

Sylvia Beach & Adrienne Monnier

Sylvia Beach and Adrienne Monnier at Shakespeare and Company (the original bookshop !)

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Ernest Hemingway at his desk, working

EH5180 Paris Years:1922-1930 Ernest Hemingway wearing hat and holding John (Bumby) Hemingway. Series 03. Paris Years, 1922-1930. Box 3, Folder 21. Please Credit: "Ernest Hemingway Photograph Collection. John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, Boston."

Ernest Hemingway  holding John (Bumby) Hemingway.
Please Credit: “Ernest Hemingway Photograph Collection. John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, Boston.”

Hadley et Bumby

Hadley with Bumby in their Montparnasse apartment

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Shakespeare and Company, the original bookshop in Saint Germain des Prés

Ernest Hemingway with his son Bumpy (Jack), Paris 1925 -by Man Ray

Ernest Hemingway with his son Bumpy (Jack), Paris 1925

 

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Gertrude Stein, who welcomed, support and helped Hemingway

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Romantic Paris

Midnight in Paris - L'affiche

“Midnight in Paris” (2011) is a romantic comedy film, set in Paris, written and directed by Woody Allen. While on a trip to Paris with his fiancée’s family, Gil, a writer finds himself mysteriously going back to the 1920’s. He loves Paris and dreams of living in the city after getting married to his fiancée. Gil believes that the golden age of Paris was in the 204s and loves walking in the city.  While going back to the 20’s, he meets his favorite artists : Hemingway, Picasso, Fitzgerald, Dali…

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Some of the movie’s spots :

  • St Etienne du Mont church, Where, willing to be alone, Gil take a breath of fresh air. The “magic” steps are to the side of the
    THE steps

    THE steps

    church facing north. The church is where, Blaise Pascal, Jean Racine are buried. rue de la Montagne Sainte-Geneviève – Paris 5 – Metro : Cardinal Lemoine or Luxembourg

 

  • Rue Galande Paris 5 – On the left bank with little shops. x - Rue Galande b03f762c
  • Hotel Le Bristol, John and Helen stay at the five star Hôtel Le Bristol in the 8th arrondissement of Paris. They are accompanied by their daughter Inez and her writer fiancé …        Hotel Le Bristol – 112 rue du Faubourg st Honoré – Paris 1st :  a luxurious Parisian hotel where Gil and Inez are staying. Metro stop : Miromesnil
  • Hotel Le Meurice, Gil, Inez, Paul and Nina enjoy a wine-tasting on a terrace of this hotel. – A five-star luxury hotel in Paris.  Overlooking the Tuileries. Among this hotel’s guests : Queen Victoria, Alphonse XIII, the Shah of Iran, Tchaïkovshy, Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dali (Dali spent at least one month of each year at Le Meurice)…Le Meurice –  228 rue de Rivoli – Paris 1stCocktail avec arrière plan Tour Eiffel0
  • Restaurant Le Grand Véfour, 17 rue de Beaujolais (nearby the Palais Royal) – Metro stop : Bourse or Pyramides  : Where Gil and Inez dine with her parents. A restaurant with a impressive list of customers : Napoleon, Josephine,Colette,Victor Hugo,Jean Paul Sartre, Jean Cocteau…  
  • Place Vendome, Paris 1  – Metro stop : Tuileries : where Inez and her mother talk wedding rings in Chopard .x- ChopardVendomeView_Midnight
  • Restaurant Le Polidor, Where Gil meets and talks to Hemingway about his book. Le Polidor – 41 rue Monsieur le Prince – Paris 6 – Metro : Odéon –  Among Le Polidor’s guests : Ernest Hemingway, Paul Verlaine, André Gide, James Joyce, Antonin Artaud, Jack Kerouac.restaurant-polidor-midnight-in-paris-film-locations-ouen-paris
  • Restaurant Paul, When a coach and horses arrive to give Adriana her own trip back into the past. Some regulars at this restaurant : Yves Montand and Simone Signoret, who happened to live in an apartment above the restaurant. Restaurant Paul – rue Henri Robert, Place Dauphine – Paris 1st (at the opposite end of the Ile de la Cité – Metro : Pont Neuf – Restaurant Paul filename-dscn2946-jpg
  • Rodin Museum, Where Paul contradicts the guide about the women Rodin was involved with.    Musée Rodin – Hotel Biron 79 rue de Varenne – Paris 7 – Metro stop : Varenne. 

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  • Orangerie Museum, Place de la Concorde – Paris 1 – Metro Concorde – Some of Monet’s pictures are displayed there with works by Paul cézanne, Henri Matisse, Renoir and others.
  • Quai de Bourbon on the western tip of the Saint Louis island Metro Pont Marie. Gil goes to a party with Cole Porter playing piano, Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald.2015-01-21 - Midnight in Paris - Capture d’écran 2015-01-21 à 04.24.11
  • 17, Rue Malebranche – Paris 5 Metro : Luxembourgrue Malebranche - 9010008908_cdcb9b9c48
  • 27, rue de Fleurus – Paris 6 – Metro Saint Placide – Where Gil meets Pablo Picasso his his current mistress Adriana (Marion Cotillard)
    • Montmartre : rue du Chevalier de la Barre and rue Lamarck – Metro : Anvers or Lamark Caulaincourt
  • Parc Jean XXIII, Ile de la Cité Paris 1er  (behind Notre Dame) – Metro stop : Saint Michel or La Cité – Where Adriana’s journal is read to Gil.midnightinparis10
  • Maison Deyrolle, 46 rue du Bac – Paris – Metro : rue du Bac – Where the Surrealist wedding party takes place.
  • Maxim’s 3 rue Royale – Metro Concorde
  • L’Ile de France, 59, Quai de la Tournelle – Where Gil goes after finally splitting with Inez.
  • Shakespeare and Company, 37, rue de la Bucherie – Paris 5shakespeare-and-co
  • Pont Alexandre III, metro : Invalides  : where Gil and Gabrielle meet up in the rain. He acknowledges that “Paris is at its most beautiful in the rain”    Fin de l'histoire - tumblr_ndqmrwjFrN1re6b50o1_500

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Midnight in Paris (In French : “Minuit à Paris”) – 2011 – Directed by Woody Allen – with Owen Wilson, Marion Cotillard, Léa Seydoux, Rachel McAdams, Tom Hiddlestrn, Alison Pill, Kathy Bates, Corey Stoll, Adien Brody, Olivier Rabourdin, Kurt Fuller

Let Paris become “your Paris”, the time of your stay !

Visit Paris, with Ann Jeanne in Paris, native Parisian : 

  • You’d like to feel like a local and having a tour in a Paris neighborhood, but you don’t feel having a tour with a group ?
  • You’d like to discover Paris off the beaten path and get a real feel of an authentic Paris ?
  • You’d like to see Paris in another perspective and to know more about Paris and Parisians?

Anne à Montsouris - Format original-2637WELCOME !

  • I’d be delighted to welcome you and show you “my” Paris. And Paris will become “your” city too 🙂
  • The tours are private (with you only or you and the person you choose), at your pace. 
  • For more details : The tours – Booking and Pricing
  • Feel free to contact me 

 Ann Jeanne in Paris’ Private walking tours