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Les Puces de Saint Ouen, this is a magical place and a goal of strolling for everyone !Les Puces de Saint Ouen, this is a magical place and a goal of strolling for everyone !

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Puces de Saint Ouen or Puces de Clignancourt ?

This flea market is either called Puces de Saint Ouen (named after Saint Ouen city, northern suburb of Paris) or Puces de Clignancourt (named after the Porte de Clignancourt area).

People come here from all over the world. It attracts over 10 million visitors per year

It’s located on the northern edge of Paris. Although it’s officially located in the suburb city called Saint Ouen, it’s generally considered by everyone as a part of Paris.15022020-IMG_8756

The largest flea market in the world 

Saint Ouen is the largest flea market in Paris …  but in the world too !

The 3 main Paris flea markets are : Vanves flea market, Montreuil flea market and St Ouen Flea market. But Saint Ouen is by far the largest and most important15022020-IMG_8742

In Saint Ouen flea market, there are about 14 distinct market-areas and more than 1700 merchants displaying their items in shops and on stalls. In Saint Ouen flea market, you’ll find all type of “architectures” : covered huts, stalls, warehouses, garages, shops…

You can find everything from antiques, records, books, antique jewellery… to clothing. From all eras and all countries. And for every budget

And one main street called : la rue des Rosiers which help you find your way in this huge village-flea market. A good benchmark.

Some History : 

It started with people collecting all sorts of things at night, through the garbage of Paris so as to sell them.  But after a while,  in the late 19th century, they were chased out of the city. Some of them twent to the northern border of Paris where they set up temporary stalls

Then these sales expanded and became more organized.

Finally the Marché de Saint Ouen itself, as it look now, started after WWI with sort of enclosed areas (some covered and some open-air) set up along one main street (la rue des Rosiers). It became very popular within a very short time.

It earned its name because of the flea that infested the furniture which was sold there.44608573

A Spot in MIDNIGHT IN PARIS (Allée n°1 in Marché Biron)
Midnight in Paris in le Marché Biron …Do you remember this episode when Gil is strolling in this flea market, looking for some gem and meet Gabrielle from who he buy an old record of Cole Porter ? midnight-in-paris-shopping-1024x645

More than 14 market-areas  

In les Puces de Saint Ouen, there are more than 14 market-areas The main ones are :15022020-IMG_8741

  • Le Marché Vernaison : founded by Mr Vernaison. In this market, you’ll find all sorts of items : beads, fabric, paintings, antique, fashion, vintage books, toys, antique clothing
  • Le Marché Dauphine – 140 rue des Rosiers – Falbalas  (one of the last places where you can find costumes from the 18th century to the 1970s and 1980s – https://www.marche-dauphine.com/falbalas/ ) :
  • Le Marché Biron : Founded in 1925. A classic market. The shops and stalls are spread on both sides of a long alleyway . Maybe the most expensive where you’ll find lighting, antique furniture… from the 17th century until the 20th (70s/80s). It’s where Gil and Gabrielle meet in Midnight in Paris
  • Le Marché Paul Bert – There, you’ll find, 19th and 20th century furniture (including some furniture dating from the 50s and 60s), Vintage fashion shops and thrift storesThis market is owned by the Duke of Westminster – 96-110 Rue des Rosiers. In this market :
    • Alain Fradin et Eric Fleuret  : vintage XXe allée 5
    • David Netter : clothes from the 50s à 80s, Design-Vintage – allée 2 – Stall n° 32 du marché Paul-Bert.
    • Giraud Art Déco :  specialist of the 20TH century. The shop offers “Vintage couture jewellery” (Chanel, Miriam Haskell, R.Sorrell…), furniture, Art Deco lighting, Cristal chandeliers, Murano lamps, furniture such as dressing tables, chests of drawers, mirrored chiffoniers! : 91 Rue des Rosiers  – stand n°91 15022020-IMG_8794
  • Le Marché Serpette : probably the most prestigious and classic one (with Biron)… 110 rue des Rosiers.
    • Le Monde du Voyage :  luxury items : Hermès items (including the iconic scarves “Carré Hermès”, Chanel, Vuitton suitcases… – Stand 15 Allée 3
    • Artémise et Cunégonde: “Haute Couture”. Designer and non-designer clothes. Alley 1 Stands 28 and 29 of the Serpette market. 
  • Le Marché Jules Vallès :

15022020-IMG_8784MAP of the Puces de Saint OuenCARTE CARTE

All sorts of items you can find in les Puces de Saint Ouen : 

Chandeliers with pendants, unusual decorative objects (plaster animals, decorative plates with a relief motif, copper braziers, old pharmacopoeias, small prints, book holders from the 1950s…), Industrial design: curtained cupboards, cylinder tables, tin cupboards, furniture that had a life in a factory ), Signed pieces and stamped furniture, vintage jewels, vintage postcards and prints and magazines, silver cutlery, carved crystal glasses…and so many more..15022020-IMG_8799

 

My thoughs and advice

  • Beware of pickpockets, more especially on your way from Clignancourt metro stop to the market ..; but in the Saint Ouen market too. Keep your bags closed and your belongings safe
  • If possible choose a visit in the morning (less crowded)
  • Use the rue des Rosiers to find your way and not get lost. It’s a good benchmark
  • Remember what one stall holder said : “You have to know how to search, it’s the customer who makes the find”.
  • Don’t hesitate to negociate the prices
  • Make sure to have cash with you (best when you negociate and also the vendors don’t all accept credit card)
  • Visit the official website of the Puces de Saint Ouen 
  • Consider visiting the Marché de Vanves too. A different atmosphere and an interesting market too
  • I generally choose Garibaldi metro stop even if the walk is a bit longer and the way not straight at all (a bit more complicated). You’ll need to use a map application on your phone !15022020-IMG_8785

HOW TO GET THERE ?

Metro : Accessible with a regular metro ticket (zone 1)

First option : Metro stop Porte de Clignancourt (Line 4) and follow the signs. It’s about a 10 minutes walk  (walk north) after the Périphérique ( =the circle road which goes all around Paris). I must admit, not the nicest and most attractive walk and a walk during which it’s better mind your bags… Until  you arrive at the Puces de Saint Ouen themselves

Second  option : (so as to avoid the not very pleasant path between Clignancourt metro stop and the flea market itself). Metro stop Garibaldi (line 13). Then about 15 minutes walk. This is generally the option I choose

…or …  : a cab !! – ask for the destination : “rue des Rosiers au Marché aux Puces de Saint Ouen “  (Mind !…. as there is also a “rue des Rosiers” in Paris 4, in Le Marais neighborhood)

Cafés, restaurants in the Puces de Saint OuenCARTE CARTE

You’ll find numerous cafés and restaurants. But you probably won’t find high gastronomy there ! Among the most famous places :

  • Louisette :by far, this is THE institution of Saint Ouen flea market…. the most outdated and inimitable… (!!), the kitschest …. an old renowned place for its outdated atmosphere with multicoloured garlands and repertoire of French songs, accordion . But don’t expect a refine meal neither the chicest welcome… (!)  but I’ve heard that Sharon Stone loves it – Address : Marché Vernaison. 30, avenue Michelet.
  • La crème – Coffee and Sweet treats : for a drink, maybe a pastry (!?) or a meal. A new place in the Puces de Saint Ouen – Marché Paul Bert 96 / 110 rue des Rosiers allée 6 stand 81 bis
  • Ma Cocotte : a bobo ( = bohemian-bourgeois) and hype type of restaurant ! Quite recent with a modern setting . Chic but still affordable. . Located at the entrance of the Marché Paul Bert of the Puces de Saint Ouen; Designed by Philippe Starck renowned French architecte. 106 Rue des Rosiers
  • Le Biron : 85, rue des Rosiers
  • Le café Paul Bert : The hotspot for all who are regular to the Puces de Saint Ouen (including the stall holders). The place « where to be» (!). Address : 20, rue Paul-Bert.
  • «Le Roi du Café » its old setting and furniture
  • Le Picolo : probably the oldest restaurant of the Puces de Saint Ouen. Traditionnal meals – 58 rue Jules Vallès15022020-IMG_8826

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More photos of Les Puces de Saint Ouen : 

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Vanves flea market : charm and authenticity 

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24062018-IMG_4634If you’re a passionate collector, a lover of hunting for bargains, or just enjoy wandering through flea markets, you’ll probably like Vanves flea market!  Carte Paris avec repère pour le marché de Vanves

Every Saturday and Sunday morning, it’s a paradise for “les Chineurs” (= the French nickname for the bargain hunters). More confidential than Saint-Ouen. On a sunny Sunday morning, more especially,  you’ll spend an exquisite peaceful morning, whether you’ve planned or not to buy something, whether you’ve bought or not something !

It is one of the largest flea markets in Paris : 350 merchants along 2 avenues (boulevard Marc Sangnier and boulevard Lafenestre) on the edge of Southern Paris.   At the crossroad of these two avenues a man play on his piano.

This market is filled with charm and authenticity, friendly. A relaxing and joyful way to spend a morning of a weekend24062018-IMG_4618

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What will you find at Vanves flea market?

If you love authentic items, this is the place to go to. 

20s and 30s items, 18th, 19th and art deco objects, luminaires, glassware and silverware; vintage jewellery and fantasy, cameras, records, old French comic books and old papers; dusty antique books, old fashion magazines from the 20s and 30s (and some a bit more recent ones), coins, military medals; paintings, drawings and engravings and vintage postcards, antique toys, religious objects, dolls, old dishes, table cloths, vases, vintage kitchen items…

Only a few stalls vending old clothes and textiles. Same for big furniture

Most of what’s sold there is quite affordable and you can negotiate the price as in all flea markets24062018-IMG_4662

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The main Paris’ flea markets are Montreuil, Saint Ouen, and Vanves. They developed during the 19th century on the area where the fortified wall of Thiers (President of France from 1871 to 1873) was located. (The wall of Thiers was a defensive wall,  built around 1840 and included almost the whole  actual Paris. It was demoslished around 1920.)

The Saint Ouen flea market is by far the largest in the city (more than 2500 stalls and 17 kilometres of alleyways spread over 6 hectares).24062018-IMG_4677

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So why choose Vanves?

Much smaller than Saint Ouen flea market: you’ll easily find you way, won’t get lost and won’t feel overwhelmed. Also a peaceful and intimate Parisian atmosphere, a little outdated, easily accessible by metro, and still largely the haunt of locals and regulars. You’ll find there atmosphere of an old Paris.

Some of the vendors are professionals and many of them have had a stall for a long time. Some of them for several decades. 

But if you‘re more interested in large furniture, Saint Ouen flea market will probably be a better place. And if you’re looking for vintage clothing, the choice in Saint Ouen flea market will be much larger.24062018-IMG_4687 24062018-IMG_4670

My suggestions and opinion :

  • Saint Ouen or Vanves ? Pro : Vanves is a smaller and thus of a more manageable size. You can’t get lost ! . Cons : Not the best place for furniture (or clothing, especially if you’re looking for something specific)
  • Plan to arrive not too late, if possible around 10.30 or earlier if possible, for the best finds. Not after 11am (The vendors generally leave around 1.30pm)
  • Take some cash with you. Most vendors take cash only. And be prepare to bargain,
  • Needs between 1.30 to 2.30 hours to enjoy it; Good prices.
  • Some vendors speak some English. It would be helpful if you spoke a little French. Don’t hesitate to bargain.24062018-IMG_4628

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Practical details :

  • Marc Sangnier avenue and Georges Lafenestre avenue – Paris, 14th arrondissement
  • Opened year-round on Saturday and Sunday from 7 to 1.30pm
  • Free entrance
  • Metro stop : Porte de Vanves, line 13 or Tram T3 or Bus 58, 95, 191
  • http://www.pucesdevanves.fr/
  • Payment in cashCarte des rues du Marché de Vanves

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You can combine your visit to Vanves flea market with : 

AJIP Private walking tours 

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